Puncture Prevention?

[oldosc]

I would think a puncture on the way to or from work is a bit of a nightmare...
I always carry a spare tube, and either a co2 inflater, or a bottle of Foam from halfords, always have an adaptor or schrader valve in the tube, you can top up pressure at any garage, but I have found many garage pumps do not go above 45,50 lbs 65 or 90 is only on artics. I also check inside the case monthly or so for thorns or little things that can work their way in, but wear off at the tread.(the practice you get doing this often will stand you in good stead in the rain.( I have never bought expensive tyres on my off roader, (pension) so cannot comment. But due to my inabilaty to stick to the road if an alternative track looks good means I have a regular date with the irons...
I want to post a new thread to ask "wot is all this rolling resistance stuff"

[flecc]

Originally Posted by oldosc

I want to post a new thread to ask "wot is all this rolling resistance stuff"

I'm all ready to answer when you want to post the question oldosc.
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[burncycle]

Its looks like a good option for me is the get my bike refitted with new tubes that have Schraeder Valves and have a set of Continental Contact Security Tyres fitted while im at it.
Not cheap but the protection is there at the end of the day.

Thanks for all the help guys.

[oldosc]

Originally Posted by burncycle

Its looks like a good option for me is the get my bike refitted with new tubes that have Schraeder Valves and have a set of Continental Contact Security Tyres fitted while im at it.
Not cheap but the protection is there at the end of the day.

Thanks for all the help guys.

I have just read a reply saying you can get adaptors for the valves @ 45p each cheaper than new tubes, also self adhesive patches are a good emergency, but prone to problems with heat...if we get any real summer, and if the pressure drops a bit (tyre) these patches will tend not to be such a good idea (in australia all patches come with a little tray and a cramp..you literally vulcanise the repair, but it is a bit hotter there sometimes)

[stokepa31_mk2]

Originally Posted by oldosc

I have just read a reply saying you can get adaptors for the valves @ 45p each cheaper than new tubes, also self adhesive patches are a good emergency, but prone to problems with heat...if we get any real summer, and if the pressure drops a bit (tyre) these patches will tend not to be such a good idea (in australia all patches come with a little tray and a cramp..you literally vulcanise the repair, but it is a bit hotter there sometimes)

The adaptor valves are useful but you will still find that even with a track pump, there is a lot of resistance to the air going in. I do not think woods valves are designed for high pressure use

[Tim]

I fitted a pre-slimed inner tube from Halfords to one of our demo Agattus over the weekend.

£8.99 though, but I was in a hurry. So far no problems.

[oldosc]

Originally Posted by stokepa31_mk2

The adaptor valves are useful but you will still find that even with a track pump, there is a lot of resistance to the air going in. I do not think woods valves are designed for high pressure use

Thanks paul Having a bit of angina, I find biking no problem??? but pumping tyres is a bit beyond me most of the time,, thats why I use the little co2 cyl then go to a garage and do the bit..I really wondered why the woods valve was so much more of a bitch to put any air into the tyre than the schrader..but of corse the pressures today are way beyond those of my youf.

[timelordUK]

I am amazed by My Pro - Connect - however I am worried now in case I get a puncture in the rear wheel. The front looks simple enough... but everything on the back looks so complicated..... any advice in getting the rear wheel off.... but more importantly, back on again... so everything works ok...

[flecc]

Originally Posted by timelordUK

I am amazed by My Pro - Connect - however I am worried now in case I get a puncture in the rear wheel. The front looks simple enough... but everything on the back looks so complicated..... any advice in getting the rear wheel off.... but more importantly, back on again... so everything works ok...

Firstly as I so often remind, wheels do not come out for puncture repairs, it's completely unnecessary.

Just release the V brake outer cable from it's stirrup at the brake end, turn the bike upside down and remove one side of the tyre and the tube from the non-chain side in the case of the back wheel. Then the puncture can be found and repaired easily, utilising the space alongside the wheel. Everything can be done in this way, including putting air into the tube to find the leak and water bath checking if necessary.

If a new tube has to be fitted, again the wheel doesn't have to come right out. The wheel nuts can be loosened and the wheel slid forward out of the frame slots sufficiently to pass out the old tube and pass in the new. Even tyres can be changed in this way, and the chain can just be left in place during the operation on hub gear bikes like yours.

For anyone inexperienced in these matters, it's advisable to do a relaxed practice dummy run at home in good conditions to get familiarity. You'll then be surprised at how easy these operations really are and will no longer have the same fear of them happening on the road.
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[Larkspur]

Am I wrong in thinking that you can use Slime to repair a puncture? I was under the impression that you could put it in when you get a puncture and then reinflate the tyre. I notice all posts that mention slime on this thread talk about pre-sliming to prevent punctures. I was planning on carrying a tube of the stuff around with me in my panniers (together with a pump) and only using it if I had to. Please advise if this strategy is wrong.

Chris