Pro Connect Gears

[flecc]

If you mean the chainwheel Tom, that's normal on this unit. It's mounted on splines and held in place by a circlip, unlike any normal bike component. This photo from one of my websites shows the similar chainwheel on the previous unit, with the action of removing the circlip shown, and you'll see the splines on which the chainwheel can rock slightly:

[tillson]

Thank you Flecc. I did mean the chain wheel, exactly as shown in your photograph.
Kind Regards
Tom

[tillson]

I'm sure it has been asked a million times before, but can anyone point me to a link providing information / help with changing the rear sprocket on the Pro Connect? I have tried the search tool, but no luck.

I am going to try a 19 tooth sprocket.

Thank you.

Tom

[john c]

just a word to put your mind at rest re the sprocket cog.If you fit a 19 t00th you will find it is just right for the job ( I know cos I asked Flecc and I fitted it to my Pro and it is superb)

[tillson]

Thanks John C. Is it an easy job to do yourself? Any special tools require? Do the gears need setting up again, or is it just a case of unclipping the cable as described elsewhere on the forum?

Any pointers / tips most welcome.

Kind Regards

Tom

[flecc]

Tom, have a look at the link below to a thread with advice from Aldby and myself on the sprocket change for the Nexus 7. The job is similar for the 8 speed:

Sprocket change

The next link below is to the technical document for the Nexus 8 for the cable adjustment afterwards:

Nexus 8 PDF
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[Conal]

Flecc

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

Conal

[tillson]

Sorry to be a pain Flecc, but do I need a special tool to remove the sprocket? I would like to get everything together before undertaking the job.

Thanks
Tom

[JamesC]

Originally Posted by tillson

Thanks John C. Is it an easy job to do yourself? Any special tools require? Do the gears need setting up again, or is it just a case of unclipping the cable as described elsewhere on the forum?

Any pointers / tips most welcome.

Kind Regards

Tom

Hi Tom
I will do some notes on fitting the 19 T sprocket to the ProConnect.

Only special tool required is a chain cutter for shortening the chain.

You must decide on the number of links to remove and how to rejoin the chain.

The chainguard is simple to remove with the one bolt near the back wheel - the front end just unclips.

I removed only 1 link and added some further tenison by pushing the wheel to the very back of the dropout slot, and the tension seems fine (100 miles with no problem)

Removing 2 links is probably more correct (sprocket teeth reduced from 23 to 19 = reduction of 4 teeth / chain wraps round half the sprocket so need to lose 2 links), with wheel half way back in dropout. This allows sensible adjustment as and when the chain needs tensioning later on.

Certainly 2 links must come out for an 18T sprocket.

If you want a spare, chain length is always a problem on an ebike - standard length that is sold is 114 links and the bike needs about 120 (I forgot to count the standard number).

The chain is 1/2" x 1/8" which is slightly wider than derailleur type chain and normally joined with a connecting link rather than a "bullet" pin.

The 50cycles guys use Sachs PC1 chain and cliptype joining link - this example at SJS is black - not sure where to get silver.

Suggest you get a couple of joiners in case tension isn't quite right. Note that the spring clip must travel with the rounded end leading through the chain circuit.

The spring loaded jockey wheel on the panasonic drive has more clearance on one side of the wheel than the other - put the joiner in from the side with narrow clearance, giving you clearance for the spring clip on the wide side.

More to follow.

James

[flecc]

Originally Posted by Conal

Flecc

Why is there a metal chicken's head in the top left of your picture? Have you started "Heath Robinson" like constructions out of old ebike parts?

Conal

. Hi Conal

It's actually the black plastic base plate and connectors for the battery on these units which mounts remotely, but it's sat behind the top motor mounting, the stiff cables pushing it into that position.
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