Recent content by harrys

The Q128 is faster and more powerful. The gal perceives what she perceives though. And the mid drive in cadence sensor mode just jumps away when the pedals are touched, vs the small half turn to activate a 12 magnet sensor. Beats me, but the real proof is when she rides it, I have to wait all...

I converted this ultra step-thru Biria for my wife, figuring she would appreciate the EZ-on/EZ-off . Used a Q128 rear motor. 20A KT controller. LCD3 display. I even adjusted the seat in the horrible position she likes. The Biria runs its shifter and brake cable thru the frame, so I ran the...

This is a typical Hall sensor throttle. Just a 3 pin IC that faces the magnet bar. Close up of the magnetic sensor chip. It gets ground, power and puts out a varying DC signal between 0.7 V and around 4.3V. One potential fail is if the ground wire breaks, the signal goes up to 4.3V and the...

I've had a 48V 201rpm Q128 sitting around for several years. I finally installed it into a stepthru for my wife this month. I spoked it into a 26" wheel, 1X cross, all elbpws out. I've read that 2X on a 130mm hub leads to sharper spoke angles.

JohnD135, the S-KU65 is a 15A controller coupled with an analog 810LED that calls up 3 PAS levels. Two issues. First. it's overheating and second. you cannot keep up with your group? Well, you must be running in PAS 3 full out, which contributes to overheating, A bigger controller, perhaps 20A...

I hope that was a typing mistake and you mean 9 pins with three large ones, but a bike motor from 2002 is also pretty old. There are lot more 9 pin connectors these days,but this was pretty common 10 years ago and is still used on lower current motors.

"Having removed the spokes I've used the Ryan method of finding the ERD. " I like that method. I have some straight spokes that I bought by mistake. Would be a good use for them. On my last wheel, I used the ERD on the seller's website. Normally, I don't mind if they are a bit long, because I...

Most geared hubs freewheel, so your bike will coast as well as its tires and your riding position allows. There's a slight drag when pedalled without power on my hub motor bikes. Mid drives have, in my opinion, less drag when the power is off. Pedalling without power is harder on mid drives...

US vendor electrifybike did stop selling TSDZ2B/OSF but I believe half their problems were users beating too hard on the motors. Meanwhile, neither of us would ride our bikes w/o OSF. They just work better for us. I plan to retry the OEM firmware on my bike to compare again.

If your follow my posting history, I originally thought the TSDZ2 was a POS, compared to my hubmotors. Part of that was not being used to pedalling, although I thought I was a fit ebiker. I appreciate saneagles advice to avoid the TSDZ2. It expects you to work. In any case, a lot of that is...

I did not mention the make-buy decision. If you sit around for a year or so, and follow ebike discussions, deals and clearance sales pop up. I and family members have picked up really two decent new ebikes under $300. Even without sales, you will be hard pressed to DIY a bike for less than a...

I'm not aware of many torque sense DIY hub motor kits, unless you want to buy some add-ons from Grin in Vancouver, CA. They seem kind of bulky to me. I'm in the USA, living in Illinois, but I've carted my ebikes out to South Dakota and Colorado, and down to flat Florida. My wife and I are...

I would remove the cover, if I thought that would work. Heat the sticker gently with a hair dryer, and it should peel off in one piece. Anyway, how many sellers will want to take the whole motor back in case of problems? They'll ask you to do some diagnostics, most of which will involve...

I like the LCD3. It's not real expensive, and is easy to read. It is the only one that gives you the temperature inside the case. Easy to read. Conversely, being the biggest one, it's easier tio damage when the bike falls, Think I have broken three, The LCD7U offers color, but is hard for me to...

C5 lowers the max current, right? Have it apply only for PAS1 -3, and not on PAS4. Not really a big deal I often lower C5 to keep the same speed in PAS 1/2 when switching between 36V and 48V batteries. Would be nice to keep the max current in PAS 4. STill, it's 30 seconds of button pushing...