Recent content by PH001

Yes, that will fit fine.

First thing to do is put a DC voltmeter on the output lead of the charger and make sure it's the right voltage (it will be stated on the label on the charger somewhere). Also try wriggling the connector around as you do it to make sure it doesn't go intermittent. If all good you really need to...

Download the manual on post #39 of this thread and it tells you how on pg10 of the manual.

Yeh, been done to death a thousand times!

Right, so no way to set a 250w mode for a 1000w bike. Hmmm.

Thanks! I guess the one in the BMS is just there as a backup measure for parasitic draw then. Hmmm, I think I will have a play around with this P5 value and see what the effects are. I'm wondering if it is set to pure voltage mode that it could trip the motor prematurely when seeing big current...

Is it the LCD controller that cuts the power when it thinks the battery is depleted or does the BMS in the battery do that?

Thanks d8veh. I wonder why they would set a different damping factor for a 36V system compared to a 48V? If it's not for scaling then I guess it just auto detects the nominal battery voltage then? Would you be able to shed any light on questions 4 & 5?

So, after having the Stealth for 18 months or so I concur with most people in that the battery level on the LCD is complete gash and is certainly at odds with the LED indication on the battery pack itself. I'd like to make it more accurate. I was looking at the motor parameters which you can...

Great link - thanks. So, just so I understand this correctly.. I could get the LCD5 from BMS battery for £13 + £25 shipping = £38 (link), but I would need to change the connector over to a HIGO-B5 (link) so £4.75 + £12.50 shipping. So total would be around £55 + duties. Or I guess you could do...

Interesting upgrades you have done. Can I ask what the difference is between KT-LCD3 and KT-LCD5 and where you can source them from? Also, are they a direct easy swap from the original KT-LCD1?

I had a few problems with my Stealth Battery of late that you can read up on here. I'm not at all convinced by the quality of the BMS in the battery that Cyclotricity source for these bikes.

I only really say that as the battery casing is EXTREMELY difficult to open up. The battery is siliconed to the case on both sides (you can see it on the first pic in my first post). It is more likely to snap in half than come apart easily.

Yeh, got there in the end! Interesting to note that when I had my battery replaced by Cyclotricity the first time around at 11 months old, they said it was the BMS that was faulty but I suspect they don't class it as a serviceable item so ending binning £300 worth of cells for the sake of a £10 BMS.

What seems to be the problem with it?