Recent content by Rick Bullotta

To be fair, very few drivetrains or clipless pedals function well in the "dead zone" just below freezing, where snow and moisture ice up. Those days are perfect for a singlespeed with flat pedals. ;-)

Where I find that I leverage the destricted capability off-road is on flowy flat trails. Back off slightly and rail the turns, then let it fly every time things get straight for a bit. Feels somewhat like riding my KTM dirt bike in that mode!

Speed reading is inaccurate over approximately 9-10 MPH. But that's the price to pay for no software or wiring mods. Doesn't bother me at all since I never actually look at my speed - I *feel* it. ;-)

The Badass dongle and the Speedclip dongle both operate without any wiring changes, FYI. I have a Speedclip on my KTM.

Actually it's the inside diameter that should be 1.5 and 1.125, but that's definitely a tapered headset that Soundwave took a picture of! @Retyred1 : can you take a picture of the steerer tube and headset race mounted on your original fork? That will answer everything.

Not very normal at all, but nothing surprises me with what manufacturers do these days. Measure the bearings. If the bottom bearing has an inside diameter of 1.5" and the top bearing is 1.125" then it is a tapered headtube/headset.

Just be careful though, since not all crown race(s) have the same profile. A mismatch could lead to anything from annoying noises to a failure of the bearing or headtube. Make sure it is an exact match of the correct one for your headset. Or better yet, just remove the one from your old fork!

I would also suggest that an asymmetric bearing design might make a lot of sense in this application. Multiple bearings on the high load side.

Highly unlikely that there are inserts of any kind other than the headset wedge that goes between the steerer tube and the top headset bearing.

I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, but this definitely is a tapered fork setup from what you've described (1.5" bottom 1.25" top). When replacing the fork you want to be sure that it is also a tapered steerer (1.5/1.25), consider axle-to-crown distance of the original vs the replacement...

Here's my technique. Turn bike upside down (be careful if your eBike control/display sticks out). Clean things well with a Park Tool brush (chain, cassette, chainrings, derailleur pulleys), then with a rag (no cleaners, lubes or solvents yet). Use a lighter lube like ProGold ProLink. While...

FWIW, I've found SRAM cassettes to last nearly forever if not physically damaged. I regularly replace chain + chainring (aftermarket chainrings + OEM chain) as a pair, and have had good success. I have EX1 on my KTM bike and have had generally positive experiences thus far. A little bit of...

But I would ALWAYS lubricate/grease cleat bolts. I've forgotten to do so a couple times and regretted it. Had to drill out the old bolts.

As you probably deduced, derailleur hangers are VERY frame-specific. A dealer or the manufacturer is the best source. Pro tip: buy 3 of them. Install the new one to fix your bike, put one away in storage, and zip tie the 3rd one to your seat rails so that you always have a spare out on a...

Ah, that's potentially good news! I have DT 350's on two wheelsets and yes, the freehub body pulls off without needing to remove any nuts or other retention bits (you will need to pop the end cap off though). Keep track of the order of the parts as you pull it apart. While you're in there...