Recent content by spleenharvester

Curious as to what flaws you found? I'll be building my own packs soon, I'm reasonably confident but it would be good to have some examples of what not to do as well.

Anyone in the future - I fixed this by using a DG7512 ideal diode board on the jack. Only drops voltage by about 0.1V so works fine!

Right you are, this BMS balances at 4.18v. Bum. I'll have to think of another way

Update, a simple SR560 Schottky diode on VIN has fixed the reverse current issue. It's not a perfect solution as there's a voltage drop across the diode (it only charges to 41.4V rather than 42.0V now) but otherwise works perfectly.

More than likely I am yeah, it's just for my own piece of mind really - I've been caught in some real downpours and have found water inside the battery cases before, so always cautious! Someone reckons just putting a schottky diode on C- should stop the backflow so for the sake of 50p I might...

Thank you, good to know it's not just a faulty BMS. I'm not terribly comfortable with voltage always being present at VIN though given it's only weakly splashproof - what circuitry would I need to add to stop the voltage appearing at the DC jack? Would something like a zener diode work?

Hi all I've rewired the battery successfully, followed the wiring diagram presented in the OP but had to use this BMS instead: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004050876755.html It runs and charges perfectly fine, but by coincidence I found one peculiarity, which is that the battery voltage...

It didn't actually have an on/off switch, you'd press and hold the charge indicator button to switch it on/off. Only this time pressing the indicator button wouldn't switch it off. It also wouldn't power the bike. Blade fuses were all fine etc. This happened after accidentally trying to move the...

Hi all! I have an Ansmann-style 36V 10S3P battery here which failed in an odd way (BMS stuck in a permanently on state). No-name brand but seems to have genuine INR18650-29E cells so worth saving. I'm planning to replace the BMS with a Bestway model, the '10S 20A with switch' at this link and a...

Thanks all. It's definitely not a configuration issue, the faulty PAS sensors always develop continuity between two wires that don't have continuity on working sensors. It's not to do with water ingress either as this one hasn't been ridden in the rain yet. I can't figure out a way that I'd...

I've just had my third KT-V12L sensor die on me in the space of about 4 months. I have a spare KT-V6 that I've gone back to every time that works perfectly, but the responsiveness on the 6 magnet PAS is comparatively poor. The KT-V12Ls just seem to be garbage. Does anyone know of a 10+ magnet...

Ah good catch, C5 is already set to 10 - max current unfortunately :-( I'm a bit wary of those Heilong-style batteries because you never know what they're filled with, especially when they don't show pictures of the internals! Btw do you happen to know if it's worth upgrading the KT-LCD4 to a...

You've saved me a ton of money then, thanks very much! Seems KT controllers only support changes to current via the P3 parameter, imitation torque vs speed. Imitation torque is a tiny bit snappier. I did look at a 48V system but was struggling to find a decently branded battery within my price...

Hi all, I currently have a basic G010.250.D motor in my Falcon e-bike (20" wheels, 36 spoke, 36V system, upgraded to KT36/48 15-amp controller). I'd like to upgrade to something with a bit more torque. It seems to me like the G070.350.D would be the best possible upgrade at double the torque of...

Just following up on this a while later, as the KT-V6's sluggish response times were irritating me - replacement KT-V12L works fine, original must have been DOA :-)