Scooter / Moped style. Legal?

[eHomer]

I've had my best long term results with Hammerite too, but only when I also use their rust proofer as a primer.

Here's the underside of my Honda SH50.

I used an electric wire wheel to remove all of the loose rust, then two coats of Hammerite No.1 Rust Beater, then two coats of Hammerite smooth black.

When using Hammerite you have to make sure that you overcoat within the specified time limit, before the initial set, unlike conventional paint.

It's tricky to get a nice looking finish on exposed areas, but it provides a very hard durable skin for things like frames and chassis.

 

[GloveMakingMan]

Back in the 60s i used to use a thing called Kurust on old cars. Don't know if you can still get it but it used to last for ages and i never put any other paint on the top of it!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Back in the 60s i used to use a thing called Kurust on old cars. Don't know if you can still get it but it used to last for ages and i never put any other paint on the top of it!

That's what I had on my Suzuki. It didn't last 5 minutes.

Forget the zinc rich primer. It still lets moisture through, which is what does the damage. Only Hammerite (and clones), epoxy (2-pack) and polyester (2 pack or powder coat) are waterproof out of the common paints. Hammerite goes through a chemical process during the first six weeks, which changes it to a glass-like substance. It's not like a normal paint.

 

[eHomer]

.....Hammerite goes through a chemical process during the first six weeks, which changes it to a glass-like substance. It's not like a normal paint.

I guess it's as divisive as Marmite. You either hate it or love it.

It goes against most painting skills, mustn't be brushed out too much, mustn't be put on too thinly, and can only be overcoated while still sticky.

If you get the different technique right though, wait for it to set properly, then it's a much more impervious skin than most single pack coatings.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've had reasonable results with spray on Smoothrite, but all Hammerite paints are very saggy, The trick is a lot of very thin coats. It's the same with that radiator paint, which I think is the same stuff. That brush-on radiator paint is impossible. You paint it on really thin and smooth. You stand back and admire it and then go for a cup of tea. when you come back it's all at the bottom of the radiator in one big sag.

 

[eHomer]

Yes, good point Dave, thick coats do run easily on vertical or sloping surfaces.

As you say, several thin coats in that situation, each one as soon as the previous one has skinned.

Another thought, I use cellulose thinners for cleaning brushes (and hands), much cheaper than the genuine Hammerite thinners, and turps has no effect at all.

 

[OldFart]

Assembly begins. Some idiot who may have been me, didnt take enough pictures whan stripping it.

I have a load of washers that i know were on the rear wheel. But at what position??? Guessing i will find out after a few miles.

When i first tried it, none of the rear lights worked. Found a grey wire one of the front connectors hanging out. Stripped it back and refitted it.

Brake light now works. Indicators work. But i dont have any tail lights?

6 rear indicators, 1 brake light and no tail lights.. Not looking forward to getting into the spaghetti of a loom..

A couple of blue wires on the speed controller that appear to do nothing?


I think the plan is to get the middle lamp to be the tail light and the 2 side ones to be the stop lamps. Indicators are in the top box.

Bulbs are 36volt..

Sometimes i plug it in and all the bulbs glow dimly. I may strip all the plugs off and solder all the wires together. Maybe less hassle than trying to find the dodgy plug/pins.