Woosh Big Bear

[Colban]

I know there are a few reviews already but I might as well go ahead.

I've rode my bike for 10 weeks commuting to work, it's racked up 590 miles according to the computer and Strava. 2000m a week of uphill, again, according to Strava.

It's done very well, never ran out of power even when I forgot to charge it and the battery meter went to 0 it still got me home.

It's tiring going up the hill but I wouldn't manage it without the motor giving me that helping hand, I've seen folk trying it on a standard bike, lowest gear for most of it and walking up the steepest part. The Pro's can do it but I work a manual job so I am using my muscles all day, not sitting in an office (with the price of some of the bikes I can only imagine they are all bankers or lawyers!?) But I digress...

I'm on my 4th set of brake pads now and I am worried about the rims of the rear wheel getting thin, it will need replacing at around 1000 miles I think? A rear disc brake would be much preferred but fixings are not there to add this (future design change?) I've also lost a couple of screws from the rear rack after they've been shaken loose coming down the hill (I check a lot more now so it won't happen again). I presume these are just issues with my route though.

The horn got broke when some lady braked hard in front of me for no reason other than she couldn't judge the width of her own car properly, got scared and emergency stopped rather than carrying on.... I ended up in the back of her. My own fault I guess but I like to blame her. Couple of near misses with idiots braking going down the hill and pedestrians nonchalantly crossing in front of me not realising how fast I can go with some electric help.

I barely use the throttle and would prefer it if it was just pedal assist so I can have a handle that does not twist, some water bottle mounts would also be nice. The tyres are great, no punctures and grip very well even in wet conditions. No issues with the gears either, you can pedal upto 20-25mph before your legs are moving to fast which is fast enough in my opinion.

I can't fault the motor or battery, they are the only reason I still have my job! Fantastic power and range! I would recommend this bike to anybody, the price is excellent for what you get, I couldn't afford any more so I am glad I chose this one. Commuting on flat(er) ground would be a doddle and highly enjoyable.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks for the review.

You can get bottle holders that strap or clamp to the frame without needing the screws for less than a fiver. Search on Ebay for "bottle mount" in cycling. There's loads of different ones there.

Which hill is it that you have to climb?

 

[D8ve]

Colban
Most braking is or should be front wheel. So a disk brake on front wheel is recommended. The normal brakes on the rear should be fine.

 

[Colban]

It's Peak hill in Sidmouth that I have to climb, and descend! 5-6 times a week.

I'm in my work gear, carrying my work stuff, charger, lock, lunch and flask so that all adds to the weight. Coming down the hill I don't have to pedal at all, I can freewheel (or free fall!) all the way down but it will accelerate to 40mph just with the weight (bike, me and all my stuff) and gradient. A few sharp and narrow corners + drivers who like to brake in front of me means I am quite heavy on the brakes, both of them, to get me to stop or slow down enough.
The front is a disk brake and great but not enough to stop on the hill alone.

 

[Nealh]

A larger front 203mm rotor would help to relieve some braking on the rear and would need a mount adapter to.

 

[selrahc1992]

I know there are a few reviews already but I might as well go ahead.

I've rode my bike for 10 weeks commuting to work, it's racked up 590 miles according to the computer and Strava. 2000m a week of uphill, again, according to Strava.

It's done very well, never ran out of power even when I forgot to charge it and the battery meter went to 0 it still got me home.

It's tiring going up the hill but I wouldn't manage it without the motor giving me that helping hand, I've seen folk trying it on a standard bike, lowest gear for most of it and walking up the steepest part. The Pro's can do it but I work a manual job so I am using my muscles all day, not sitting in an office (with the price of some of the bikes I can only imagine they are all bankers or lawyers!?) But I digress...

I'm on my 4th set of brake pads now and I am worried about the rims of the rear wheel getting thin, it will need replacing at around 1000 miles I think? A rear disc brake would be much preferred but fixings are not there to add this (future design change?) I've also lost a couple of screws from the rear rack after they've been shaken loose coming down the hill (I check a lot more now so it won't happen again). I presume these are just issues with my route though.

The horn got broke when some lady braked hard in front of me for no reason other than she couldn't judge the width of her own car properly, got scared and emergency stopped rather than carrying on.... I ended up in the back of her. My own fault I guess but I like to blame her. Couple of near misses with idiots braking going down the hill and pedestrians nonchalantly crossing in front of me not realising how fast I can go with some electric help.

I barely use the throttle and would prefer it if it was just pedal assist so I can have a handle that does not twist, some water bottle mounts would also be nice. The tyres are great, no punctures and grip very well even in wet conditions. No issues with the gears either, you can pedal upto 20-25mph before your legs are moving to fast which is fast enough in my opinion.

I can't fault the motor or battery, they are the only reason I still have my job! Fantastic power and range! I would recommend this bike to anybody, the price is excellent for what you get, I couldn't afford any more so I am glad I chose this one. Commuting on flat(er) ground would be a doddle and highly enjoyable.

check atoz universal disc mount at wiggle for 19.99 - i got one to fit aftermarket disc brake to rear of vintage raleigh

 

[flecc]

check atoz universal disc mount at wiggle for 19.99 - i got one to fit aftermarket disc brake to rear of vintage raleigh

Link to this item
.

 

[selrahc1992]

Link to this item
.

many thanks,on dodgy tablet that doesnt copy links

 

[D C]

I use a 203 rotor on the front and the stopping power is massive, just be aware it may void the warranty on the forks (as it did on mine) or maybe the whole bike.
I would agree to take it easy with the rim brakes. I once had a rim blow of after wearing thin, very scary!

Dave.

 

[John Stuart]

It's Peak hill in Sidmouth that I have to climb, and descend! 5-6 times a week.

I'm in my work gear, carrying my work stuff, charger, lock, lunch and flask so that all adds to the weight. Coming down the hill I don't have to pedal at all, I can freewheel (or free fall!) all the way down but it will accelerate to 40mph just with the weight (bike, me and all my stuff) and gradient. A few sharp and narrow corners + drivers who like to brake in front of me means I am quite heavy on the brakes, both of them, to get me to stop or slow down enough.
The front is a disk brake and great but not enough to stop on the hill alone.

Hi Colban, I bought the Sirocco CDL, a decision based on my height, have now done 140 miles. I rode to Sidmouth from Exmouth via Peak Hill and back last week. I know the hill well as a car driver and have cycled it years ago. The run back up the hill from Sidmouth was a bit of a struggle and I don't envy you doing it so often. The worst park was my wife (younger and it seems fitter) disappearing up the hill on her Dawes Suburbia......

 

[Colban]

Thanks for the suggestions to my braking issue. It still seems to be a problem and I have a spare wheel on order now as I don't want a rim blowout. The guy in the Cycle shop in Sidmouth kept a rim that had this happen to show people, can't imagine I would look or feel to pretty if it happened going down the hill.

I've looked at the adapters before, Woosh said it will void the warranty of the bike but that's fine by me. I'd rather not die than have a warranty that I would doubt I will use.

My concern with the adapter is it looks as if it will block the two bolt holes I have on the side the disk brake would fit that are currently used to hold the rack that carries the battery and the mudguard. Is this going to be the case? Any suggestions how to remedy this? (I don't have a thread tapping tool)

I need to get a new rear brake anyway as I threaded the hole for tightening one side which sucks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I'm not sure I understand anything of what you just said. Are you tslking about improving the braking? If so, you don't need to order a new rim, neither do you need to do anything with the rear of the bike. Just buy a single hydraulic brake for the front, take off the old lever and caliper, and bolt on the new one. About £40 and 5 minutes work.

 

[trex]

I think Colban wants to add rear hydraulic brakes rather than front hydraulic.
He could save himself a lot of bother if he does what you suggest.

 

[trex]

front + white cylinder black right hand lever Clarke Exoskeletal: £21.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/clarks-exo-skeletal-hydraulic-disc-brake/rp-prod80605

 

[D8ve]

As I said disk on front normal on rear.
Rims don't ware out for a long time

 

[Colban]

My rims are quite worn already not a lot of the groove left when compared to the front (which has a disk so no wear on the rims)

I was thinking about putting a disk on the back but I would need an adapter as it doesn't have the fixtures for it, I think the adapter suggested would block the holes for the rear rack and mudguard so that doesn't look like an option.

I'm on my 2nd pair of front brake pads and 4th rear pads and need new ones again. Only Done 700 miles now.

I will get a front hydraulic brake if that is the general consensus but I still need a new rear wheel/rim. I'll upload a picture of it later.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

When you get a front brake that works, you'll hardly use the back one.

 

[Osho]

D8ve and d8veh both say to use the front brake. There must be a good reason for this but I cannot fathom it out having always thought that balanced breaking was the 'correct' method. Advice would be very welcome,thanks.

 

[flecc]

Bicycle geometry and rider position place almost all the weight very high up, so the weight on braking rotates the weight (bike and rider) around the tyre-to-road braking point with greater effect than with most vehicles.

That means that under braking, the rear wheel lift tendency is much greater than with most vehicles, severely limiting the braking that can be applied there before the tyre loses adhesion.

It follows that almost all the braking attainable on a bicycle is at the front wheel, so that's the place to put the best brake and the brake to predominantly use.

A practical example is that tricycles, like bicycles, have to have a minimum of two brakes, but the law* says they can both be on the front wheel, such as a rim brake plus a disc or drum brake.

* Construction and Use regulations.
.

 

[RobF]

D8ve and d8veh both say to use the front brake. There must be a good reason for this but I cannot fathom it out having always thought that balanced breaking was the 'correct' method. Advice would be very welcome,thanks.

As flecc says, when you brake most of your weight and the weight of the bike goes to the front wheel.

Thus the back wheel is in very light contact with the road and will only support limited braking before it skids.

The front, on t'other hand, is pushed into firm contact with the road, so the tyre will support strong braking before it skids.