EBC 250W FWD Woes

[Warwick]

Morning!

I'm running an Orbit Orion with an Electric Bike Conversions 250W front wheel.

Just went to ride to work on the Orbit and I've got no bars at all on the power meter and no power on the throttle at all.

When I wired the kit, the battery and sensor connections were soldered by me, so weren't exactly factory spec. but I was wondering if anything else might be at fault here. Any ideas welcome.

When I get back from work, I'll check the wiring, but everything was working fine yesterday evening. The ride home was dry & uneventful and the set up pulled me up the last hill as normal. The bike has not suffered any fall during the evening, so I can't see any physical damage. The battery was charged up as normal and the rudimentary power scale on the side of it shows full charge & the green light is on when I plug in the charger. When I turned it off yesterday, there was one bar left on the display power meter, now there is none. Strange.

Help!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Measure your battery with a voltmeter, not the dispay or a green light.

 

[Nealh]

No power !!! Start with the battery and charger check output with DVM for both and check for a blown fuse, also check battery docking connections.

 

[Warwick]

There is power getting through to the display, if that makes any difference...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It doesn't.

 

[Nealh]

Display and other peripherals only need 5v.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The display runs off battery voltage, but is independent from the controller, so the display can work without even having a controller. One of its functions is to send the battery voltage on to the controller to power it, so the controller can't work without the display working.

The display steps down the battery voltage to power itself. It uses very little power, so it can run off very low voltage. The controller can also run off low voltage, but if it detects that the voltage is below what it should be, it won't provide any power for the motor.

The motor is connected directly to the battery. The power is blocked by the controller's mosfets. Only the controller's cpu can open the mosfets, so it works like a tap and needs power to open the tap.

 

[Warwick]

OK, 41.6V at the battery outlets. The wiring looks fine too. Controller?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Is it a 48v kit or 36v one?

 

[Warwick]

36v

 

[Deleted member 4366]

When the display is switched on, press the power button twice to change the odometer to volts. What does it show?

Is the controller marked 36v/48v?

 

[Warwick]

The controller is 36v and the reading on the display is 41.8v...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I think EBC use Kunteng controllers. Some have automatic voltage detection. When you first connect a fully-charged 36v battery, they think it's a 48v one. If you can, discharge the battery a bit, then completely disconnect it and try again.

 

[Warwick]

Hmm, thanks for the help so far. I have no way of discharging the battery, AFAIK.

 

[mw1]

Hmm, thanks for the help so far. I have no way of discharging the battery, AFAIK.

Hi. Does your bike have pedal assist, & if so, does it work on that?
Mark

 

[Warwick]

Nope, 'fraid not...

 

[mw1]

Nope, 'fraid not...

Ok. You could, I think, use 3off 12v bulbs wired in series to partly discharge the battery down to closer to 36v ,so that the controller recognises the correct system voltage.
Mark

 

[Warwick]

Worth a try, thanks. I'm busy with my new Oxygen, so might just let time do the work.