Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

Good effort. I score that 76%. The correct answer for question 2 is Mid-drives grate, so you were close, but your spelling let you down. You must get the spelling right to avoid conveying the wrong meaning. I would have given a half-mark for Mid-drives are meh. For your homework, go to Reddit...

That's right. It can make your chainline incorrect.It's the same when you fit a crank-motor. I've converted a couple of MTBs from triple to single chainwheels. They worked OK, probably because the chains weren't new, but when I did my last crank-drive with a new chain, the chain kept coming off...

It's been a very long time since anybody has reported a broken hub-motor. I'd say maybe one in the last year compared with several crank-motors. The thing is, whatever electrical problem people get with their standard Chinese hub-motor bikes by doing daft things to them, they're very easy and...

That's pretty easy then. Almost certainly the caliper is rubbing on the motor or the disc is rubbing on the caliper. You need to get your head down by the caliper to see what it is. Once you see what's touching, you should be able to determine what to adjust. It could also be that the disc is...

thank you , you made some good points there Could you what the stock firmware like on 48v TSDZ2/B as a have been redding up that level 1/2 not much good but 3/4 does make light peddling gets you up to speed and effortless for hills , Plus the battery last long on mid drives a been told...

Puncture repairs are not easier on mid-drives. The procedure is the same: Invert the bike Pull the tyre off one side Pull the tube out Pump in some air Find the leak Patch it Check the tyre in the corresponding position to remove whatever caaused the puncture Push the tube back in Pull the tyre...

I've just had the crank off and removed the disc. The splines are in good condition and the disc, though I can hold to stop it rotating. It is as rigid as I think it could ever be. Watching some You Tube videos some sit on the square part of the axle. Mine doesn't and it sits on the round...

I regularly do around 17.5mph on flat. I have a downhill that when there is a good tail wind I've managed 26mph. My bike is geared with a larger front crank as the original one felt too slow. I also got rid of the knobbly tyres and put on Marathon pluses. The electric power gets me up said...

Even that rather professional looking attempt has the same spelling mistake!

I got some of these from ebay a while back. They seem to stay on and have done some miles both on a hub motor and on the frame of a converted Specialised bike with a crank motor. I recognise there is an element of fraud in sticking an ebay label on your bike, but in my case I know for...

Thanks for take time to reply , a wouldn’t go mid drive as if me chain snaps a be left Stranded 4 clock in the morning pushing me Bike back 10 miles , to risky that , think going go the route yose power 250w rear hub then if it’s not powerful enough upgrade to yose power controller as that...

When you convert a normal bike to an electric one, you have desired performance characteristics and aesthetic characteristics. The problem is that the various characteristics conflict with each other: range vs weight; appearance vs utility; power vs stealth; speed vs legal requirements...

250w is the rated power, the actual max output power from a hub motor with a 36v 15 a controller with a full battery will be closer to 500W (42v *15amp * 80?% efficiency)

I have purchased two of the Yosepower front hub kits, one for my trike and one for bike. They both have 250w 36v motors with a standard set 15mph limit Which can be tweaked. The only thing that makes it illegal is the throttle takes you to 15mph but Saneagle has kindly supplied me a way of of...

yeah read tricky for expensive.. could be expensive in time spent searching.. Most generic replacement ebike controllers employ a cadence sensor input, so finding a compatible controller with an existing torque sensor may be problematic, Im not sure all torque sensors work the same or if...

Hub-motors are generally more reliable than crank ones, and they can bale you out if you get any problem with your drive train. It's difficult to gauge how much power you need, but I'd go with 48v to get more power options. You can divide motor controllers into two groups: speed control, where...

The Orange she got has Bosch crank drive. I think it was around 25kg with battery and all fittings. Anyway, not suggesting it for OP. p.s. I did try to suggest the Santana3 to the friend, I forget why she decided against it; probably that she really wanted hub gears (Danish and brought up that...

For towing a trailer, a bike with small wheels would be better because a hub-motor gets more torque with them and the motor runs faster and more efficiently. With big wheels, it would probably run too slowly which would overheat it. A bike with big wheels would need a crank-motor, but nearly...

The default one piece yose-power pas sensor requires a circular < 17mm diameter crank, it might fit on a 17mm hex?? the alternative option for fitting on the right hand side in 2 pieces (magnet disk and sensor) is less demanding on crank dimensions/shape and works in more cases at no extra cost...

Kat any EAPC you see that utilises a middle motor/crank motor will be a Torque sensing type irrelevant of brand . For your needs as with the Woosh Crusa one will be looking for an EAPC with a hub motor.