Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

Hi @Nixtoo, yes in my case the Swytch hub motor worked. I wanted to test the Swytch hub motor (essentially Aiekma / AKM 100SX hub) with Woosh's Lishui controller / battery / display set up to eliminate any fault on the Swytch hub motor (the three phase wires on PRO power pack controller failed...

That's interesting. I think it's probably more to do with your riding style, but you need to eliminate other variables or repeat the rides with different riders to be sure. Years ago, as an experiment, I installed two identical motors in two similar bikes, one as a hub-motor and the other...

On hilly rides my cadence sensored crank drive bike is significantly more economical than my torque sensored hub drive using exactly the same battery over the same route, taking approximately the same time. Not sure why, the hub drive is a 26" wheel with more "roadie" tyres - it does have...

Today, I did the shakedown ride - about 35 km at an average speed of 20km/hr. It was down Ironbridge Gorge and back, mainly on trails, some exceptionally steep bits. Here are my thoughts, but please bear in mind that I'm comparing it with my normal bike, which is the best legal ebike you can get...

12 years ago, I made an ebike, where the motor turned the crank directly, to which the pedals were attached. That meant that the bike pedalled the rider when you twisted the throttle. It was quite interesting to ride, but I soon got used to it. I still can't figure out if it would be legal...

If because of an unanticipated stop, I haven't managed to change to a low enough gear to easily get moving again, I lean the bike to one side on it's kickstand, thereby lifting the electrically driven rear wheel off the ground, then switch to a lower gear and turn the crank, until I am on the...

If you want torque, all you need is to lower the gearing with a crank motor. Going from a common 11/28 cassette with a 44T chainring to 11/42 10-speed with 32T chainring would more than double the torque in bottom gear. Torque alone is not enough. You need power too. A crank motor taking 750w...

Doesn't it already have a sprocket on it? You don't need an extra one, the motor goes between the crank and the axle. Another way of doing it is to fit a jack-shaft between the crank and the axle, and drive it with a chain from the motor. Also, there's the Cyclone motor that drives the chain...

All I know is that now I’ve closed the gap between the sensor and crank shaft disc that contains the magnets the motor kicks in within about 1/2 Pedal turn..

That is close to the answer, the origin of Walk Assist on pedelecs was before there was anything permitting it in EAPC law, but there was a law permitting pedestrian controlled vehicles. These usually took the form of powered four wheel barrow or small van with a motor switched by a tension...

Noting this post is a few years old if this helps anyone with a similar problem my Yosepower PAS wasn't kicking in unless I pedalled fast In 1st gear. As I has an all in one crank set it has a separate magnet disk and sensor. It turned out that the sensor at 6mm away from the magnetic disk was...

I think people set the max current (using the cable) on the 36v BBS01 to 18 amps which would give you (legally) 650w output power from the controller.

I love my converted specialised bike with its crank motor BBS01. Great assistance to get up the hills around here in the South Tyne Valley and North Pennines. I am a bit inclined to disconnect the thumb throttle to make it more legal. I only use that feature when moving off on hill or to get...

No, not happy, we need to know your weight and steepness of hills that you shoot up in order to make sense of your review. All I did was ask you to provide context because uninformed people read this forum to get informed. When they see comments, like " level 4 practically shoots you up any...

No I dont feel the PAS kick in when I pedal without throttle. so it most likely is the sensor at pedals. I am going to check bike when its a bad day like the weather I mean, but while this nice weather is out, im going out each day on bike. so not had a chance to look just yet but will try...

PAS is simple , if it works then you will hear and feel the motor working . Ignore the throttle for now and don't use it, just pedal and one will feel the power wafting you along. As for the crank tool , one doesn't need one to check the disc . One can simply turn the bike USD to see the disc...

So, after about 4 or 5 weeks and a little over 200 miles all is still good with the 3 speed conversion, I ended up using the original narrow axle as fitted to the Sturmy 3 speed and just adjusted the o.l.d. to about 130 mm using spacers between the lock nuts, the axle thread had a good few turns...

yes. On the TSDZ8, it's about 11mm-12mm. Yes. Still not. Search the net if someone has managed to fit an BBS01 to your bike. If there is, then you'll be OK because both have the same footprint.

Hi @Woosh - back in your first post in this thread you said - - why is the anti-torque hanger no longer need (that's really good new BTW) - is the 'triangular' retaining clamp more serrated than the one for the TSDZ2? And can you tell me what is the gap between the crank axle housing and the...

Yep, I doubt it'd last very long on my bike, especially now with the controller at 18A... probably 20A soon. ...and that's why I always wear at least one glove. I wash the grease off every so often.