Search results

Hello guys need some advice I have a couple 48v controllers lying around and want to feel the performance of 72v before I fork out on a £££+ Sabvaton and £££ on a qs205 I have what looks like a well built 15 fet controller can anyone identify it and give advice on what caps/fets are the best...

Had this battery custom made for me tried it out once as it just arrived 2 days ago and had my bike running at 35A (controller maximum) without any voltage sag that i noticed (display battery bars going down etc) It was built with the best cells and i made sure the seller sent me pictures so...

Also by fill out and return do i have to post and wait?

Are these kits any good currently 48v 1000W kit is £179 if i remember. Seems to use Kunteng controllers and LCD units as far as i can find out by searching. I have a 13s4p 20A max battery right now so 980W hoping to be able to limit the controller using the LCD as voltage sag cuts my battery...

Will use it to adjust more, it began cutting out again so i tested stalling the motor on highest setting after cutting one of the shunts off And it was fine even under stall, then after a short ride it was cutting out again and not cuts out when stalling. It seems the shunt trick works but...

Just got one £8 on ebay

This bike is just for fun offroad so not for keeping fit i am underweight if anything. Do you have a good idea of how to measure the current under load? I dont have lcd just a cheapo led monitor i have velcod my iphone to the handle bars for speed/ distance

So had a read around and seen another of your posts mentioning you shaved the shunts. So googling found out what a shunt is. Located mine and shaved (20% of the shunt) hoping for 25>> 20 Resistance before shaving was around 3ohms after was 4.5 so i shaved abit too much maybe but the readings...

http://imgbox.com/kKQtxygK http://imgbox.com/Bhq1tuWI http://imgbox.com/KVfbR0FM http://imgbox.com/Ja5jzZGO

I am learning on the go and i worked them figures out too although i thought 5.2 is the safe current not max as it can go full power just not sustain it and eventually cuts, the seller knew very little about batteries and kept saying the cells are not important its the BMS which i knew was BS...

Aliexpress offer a guarentee of partial refund if not as described i have had an offer of £30 from him but i asked for £50 ;) i think at £180 the battery is a bargain as its actually really well made just 20A instead of 25A continous as he described In terms of recell do you mean just get them...

One last bit of advice, seller is offering a free 30A bms but i dont think this will solve the problem as the cells have 20A peak output. Am i correct?

2600 mah 3.7v 5.2 A are the specs for the 26F i found online. 13s4p would get me the 48v and 10.4ah So that gives 5.2x3.7/48 x13x4 i think this is how you calculate this? Thats 20A and so this is definately my problem the motor seller told me the motor and controller are rated 25A Now to...

Thank you all for the help the cells are advertised as samsung 26F cells although i will try to take it apart to test. I bought on aliexpress and so i will be able to make a claim and receive a refund if the batteries are not what they are claimed and or the battery does not put out 25A...

The controller has nothing written on it at all just a plain silver box. I was wondering if it could be speed limited but it doesn't seem to have a problem when the wheel is just spinning in the air. The not coming back on i can reproduce by putting full power on while holding the brake it...

I should add, all problems occur when riding. If Wheel is free spinning i can run the motor and never had a problem. Seller blamed the 25A rating on the battery but i though 48x25 1200w was enough

So i have a 48v 1000w kit, cheap bought off ebay. I got a good quality new dolphin style 48v 10.4ah battery which has 25A continous rating paid £240 direct from china, however the bike seems to reach a limit where it suddenly looses all power to the led display/motor until i release the...