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I don't buy the safety argument. I can regularly do 35mph going down the hill my house is on without even pedalling so what difference will a 20mph limit make? That said I think the current legislation is remarkably sensible. There will always be folks that want to go faster whatever the cutoff...

Having just finished fxing the same problem on my wife's cube, do try wrapping a tight bungie cord around the battery and frame to keep a solid positive contact there. If that stops your problem you then have to do some adjustment to the battery holder to fix it properly (torx driver needed).

It does indeed seem a 30mph class isn't going to happen. What would be nice, and perhaps more achievable, might be a 20mph class, hopefully not needing plates/ insurance/tax/mot but maybe needing a driving licence or some sort of proficiency test/training test as a price for the extra speed...

Say rather that, at current technology levels, 500 Wh batteries are at a popular sweet spot for range/weight/cost. As battery capacities increase we'll soon be expecting 600, then 700 Wh at the same sort of price and weight as we have now. I think there will probably be less demand for...

You did ask "Why would anyone want to continue pedelling, when they are pulling the brake?" , I just suggested one possible reason why you might want to do this. In fact I was doing just that last night, dabbing the brake while riding along to get rid of the annoying noise.

Wow, that's a serious bit of kit!

Bit of stuff in the disk brakes making an annoying noise and you want to get rid of it?

You'll want the bend to be similar but I'd say don't worry about the spokes being too long, you can expect to cut a bit off the end unless you're lucky enough to have an exact common size that is readily available. Do thread a nut on first before cutting the thread so that it cleans up the end...

Thanks. Is that from the 'real' specs though or a vendors website? All the online sites I've looked at simplistically divide the max weight by number of bikes to give a maximum bike weight no matter which brand of rack I look at- and which is probably nonsense in most cases.

Thanks, I had been looking at the more expensive Thule carriers (and the Atera Strada which looks as if it might perhaps be better), but hadn't really considered these more budget 9403 ones. Given that this ebike lark is proving rather expensive already having just bought two bikes, and a dog...

:) That had occurred to me, but then there is no room for the dog, nor her 'chariot', nor any luggage. Actually, in emergency and after removing the front wheels, I did get *both* bikes inside the car but it was a bit of a struggle and they did get scratched in the process.

Why two magnets?

A bit of Mars oil rubbed sparingly into the underside of the saddle will start to soften it nicely and make it easier on the bum. A smear of the same rubbed on the top helps to stop it absorbing rain.

Indeed, and there is also a long and established canal working boat tradition where a bike is carried so that someone can cycle on ahead of the boat and ready the locks. 'Wheeling' I think they call it. AFAIK all canal tow paths are open to bicycle traffic, private wharfes excepted.

Just browsing around I see that on Alibaba there are 3rd party alternatives for the current 400 and 500 battery models starting to appear, such as here https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/36v-replace-Bosch-power-pack-500_60705126866.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.241.11c4cee2crHG2Z I'm very...

Neither, at least for me, just looking to see if there is an alternative that is good enough and cheaper. Just like I do for fuel for my car ...

It's easy really. You either cycle along at just below the cutoff speed and enjoy it or, if you are able to sustain above the cutoff speed without assistance, just drop to whatever gear is best for you at the speed you want to do. The problem really is when that speed you can sustain is just on...

Have a closer look and you'll see it's 150Wh capacity for the battery but 150W (not Wh) from the hydrogen generator ( i.e. it can produce 150W to either drive the bike or charge the battery until the available hydrogen runs out). The actual Wh capacity equivalent is going to depend on how much...

Where do those 5.4ah numbers come from? In the original linked article I see 150 Wh@36V for the battery and 2 litres of hydrogen. Is there some formula that translates 2 litres to 5.4Ah?

Despite the negative opinions I can see that this *might* be ideal for the postie use case. The great attraction of the hydrogen fuel is that you can instantly recharge it, so deliver a bag of mail, return to base to pick up another bag and top up the hydrogen seems that it might be a promising...