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One of the things that makes me trust the Tannus tyres is, they made a deal with Specialized where their "Alibi" hybrid bike had Tannus solid tyres fitted. Another one was "Over 160,000 bikes with airless tyres sold by Japanese brand Chacle" using these tyres. That same article says in the UK...

Done about 60 miles on these up to now. Last ride was out in the rain and the grip seemed fine, but I was being really careful. It's been one thing after another and I've hardly been out riding but I plan to get a decent amount of miles on the bike soon.

Done 975 miles on it up to now covering about 23 battery charges. :cool:

Going to be putting a Tannus tyre on the front tomorrow (to add to the one already on the rear) so I'll report back here as I add miles to the tyres. I've still only done 22 miles (on the rear only) but the ride was such that I thought I will chuck one on the front as well. I worked out my...

Yes, it's difficult at times trying to work out why they are complaining and how it might be justified in their case but not in your case. I was most worried about spokes breaking but with a suspension seatpost + the tyre being 1.6" wide + 36 spokes @ 2.5mm each... perhaps the people breaking...

2nd impressions: It was perfectly fine. I think it's bedding in better now (if there is such a thing!) and the squirmy feeling either wasn't quite as bad, or I'm getting more used to it. Since the ride isn't any more harsh and any extra rolling resistance is going to be dealt with my the motor...

The 26" x 1.75" is apparently one of the toughest to fit. If it was 700c and half that width, I don't think it would be anywhere near as bad.

Cheers folks. The one thing about having Marathon Plus and Tannus Armour was, although it didn't stop punctures (that's why I'm now on a solid tyre), when you do get one, it has to be something big enough that you're going to see it in the tyre. That means you don't have to take the inner tube...

I'm running a hub motor on my rear wheel. After getting a puncture recently on the rear wheel - where else - that was the final straw. This is a rear wheel that was already running on a Marathon Plus tyre and it already had a Tannus Armour insert... I still got a puncture. It looked like some...

Oh the screenshots are strategic! Just about the only time there were no cars or cyclists on Winnats Pass, was in those screenshots.

I worked out the above street is 14.56% :p The toughest one near me is "Apple Street" on Werneth Low, although it's very short, it's just ridiculous. The toughest one was Winnats Pass... All stills from my videos :cool:

I agree with that but I have gone up 20% inclines with my hub motor, using a 24t chainring and 32t low sprocket and although it was manageable, I was only just managing, it was hard to balance because it was hard to pedal fast on that sort of gradient even in that gear. It's 19.22 gear inches on...

Cheers Nealh. If it's possible to have 2 chainrings, then that changes things! My hub motor controller is rated at 18A. The way my hub motor works on a steep hill (15%+) it doesn't matter if it's on PAS 1 or PAS 5 (the max). It doesn't go any faster or supply any more power in that situation...

After biking up Winnats Pass the other day on my hub motor with a lowest gear of 24x32, it got me thinking again about swapping to a mid-drive setup, so it can utilize my gears. I was doing about 4 MPH up that hill for most of it and I actually started to feel sorry for my hub motor at one...

I'm running it on a wing and a prayer, with just enough spindle spacers so the pedal sensor clears the magnet disc (with some light rubbing) and just less than the amount of spacers that would stop any adjustment being possible on the bearing preload. Now I am running it on a 54mm chainline, it...

The battery is on it's 5th or 6th cycle by now. Done about 275 to 300 miles on it. On my 60lb+ bike on PAS 2/5 I got 56 miles with some steep hills thrown in and 62 miles without those steep hills. On PAS 3/5 I got 49 miles on the same bike, with the steep hills included. I just swapped to a...

I can do this the simple way with a strip down the down tube and the sensor screwed onto that, but it means running a chainline that's 5mm too wide. Who knows whether it will run OK or not. EDIT: I just realised I'm on an old cheap suspension frame at the moment and the rear triangle/swingarm...

I think I've worked out a way with a straight metal strip along the chainstay, as long as it's bent to match the bend inwards from the chainstay to the BB shell, it will be simple. Then I can just attach that slimmed down sensor box. I'll do pics if it works.

Cheers Woosh, this has got me thinking. o_O My drawing is atrocious but, it could perhaps be shaped like one of those cassette brushes. Then the straight bit going up the down tube would be attached with cable ties and inner tubing to stop it moving: Maybe I could actually use one of those...

That's a good idea but I only have a 13-23t cassette on and want to keep it rideable if not running the motor. Ditching it would make my lowest gear 36x23t which would make it tough up steep hills with no motor on. I'd rather not use a PAS than do that.