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Sorry to have ruffled feathers, not my intention, I just like to understand things from first principles. If my concern is unfounded, happy to have that explained. The answers I would want to find are (1) at continuous 50A i.e just not quite blowing the fuse, how hot does the 2.5mm2 cable get...

Completely separate from your very valid point that Yosepower is not UPP... Point (1) is not a completely correct description. 1. The principle of rating and fusing is that as we go 'downstream' each component must have a lower rating than the previous one in order to protect it. The cable...

That Fiat screwdriver might be of limited use...

In my youth, the standard motorbike toolkit joke was 'a big hammer and the bus fare home'. On my longer trips I don't carry much, because the nearest bike shop / DIY store / Screwfix is never far away, and the nearest helpful person is always closer than you think. I like separate Allen keys...

The bit in post #7 is essential. Without it the motor is only supported at one end, and the metal at that end will have bending loads applied to it that it has not been designed to survive. Any distortion of the casing will compromise gears and bearings even before any cracking and falling...

Is there anything that stops a coaster braked bike also having a rear disc or V brake?

Its total mileage is over 15,000 now - it was dead a long time ago. I only lease the bike, so careful about replacing and customising because one day it may go home! What amazes me is that this £2,700 bike could be sold with a £40 fork!! My lesson on quality is chromed steel stanchions always...

I have just dumped the Suntour Nex that came on my Ridgeback X2. A heavy pile of utter crap. The stanchions had rust spots through the chrome within a month, harsh, and with mileage wore quickly as the poor seals let water in. Restricted choice for a replacement as 63mm nominal travel and qr...

The cause is the BLEvo app, so the answer will likely come from its owners/authors/suppliers. It appears to have changed settings in your system which the standard app and motor don't like. I'd be asking the BLEvo people what it changes and how to change everything back. There's a chance they...

No. Keep it clean and oiled, share wear across two or three chains to extend cassette life, and don't ride full power in the same gear all the time. Then expect 2,000 to 3,000 miles per chain and double for the cassette. So two chains and a cassette per year, a front chain ring every 18 months...

Fitted width might be down to your rim width. My original rims, which came with 45mm tyres were only 19mm internal width, my old 26er mtb only 17mm. The Tern cargo bike is on 36mm, with 62mm tyres...

Two measures of life: age and mileage. My Shimano E5000 mid-drive is 2 years and 9 months old, running as sweet as day 1, with 24,550km/15,255 miles on the clock. I use several batteries with it, but I estimate the battery supplied with it has done about 4,000 miles, and has 87% of original...

If you want something that rides like a normal bike, just not such hard work, then you need a torque sensor system. If you want easy hills, you need a mid-drive. Plenty of options for £3K.

Yesterday on Ebay: If I wasn't 600+ miles away, I'd have been tempted.

Often? I would hope always! Two independent brakes are a fundamental safety requirement.

Which part of UK are you in, and can you manage £2.5K quickly?

Steep hills and heavy loads points you at the mid-drive bikes like Tern GSD, Momentum PakYak. The Tern uses the Bosch CargoLine motor, specifically developed for cargo bike use. The PakYak uses the well regarded Yamaha. I know regular users of both those bikes, whose main purpose is carrying...

My coffee table is supported by a folded Brompton at each corner. All different colours, obviously.

Just to clarify: some PAS sensors will decide you are pedalling and so the motor should be ON even when you are pedalling backwards (for your coaster brake). That's not safe, and you need a 100% reliable workaround for that before you add a front hub motor to your bike. A brake cutout only on...

...but even that is not as clear cut as it sounds. My rotors are marked resin only, but as far as I can see, are solid stainless steel, not some fancy sandwich, so I don't really see the problem with using harsher pads. Unless I'm missing something, it just means the rotor will wear out...