bike keeps cutting out

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
Having renewed two major components and knowing batteries work on another bike there is conflict or fault elsewhere.
Try disconnecting the throttle, pas and brake sensors.
Reconnect pas only and see if bikes cuts out, if ok connect throttle and repeat again. Finally connect brake sensors.
If all above fail and cut out continues disconnect motor hall sensor wiring only and see if bikes works and cuts out.
A faulty motor hall may be a cause which you can test for using link below.

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf
 

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
Having renewed two major components and knowing batteries work on another bike there is conflict or fault elsewhere.
Try disconnecting the throttle, pas and brake sensors.
Reconnect pas only and see if bikes cuts out, if ok connect throttle and repeat again. Finally connect brake sensors.
If all above fail and cut out continues disconnect motor hall sensor wiring only and see if bikes works and cuts out.
A faulty motor hall may be a cause which you can test for using link below.

http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf
 

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
Hi nealh thanks for all your help today bike still cut with hall disconnected
test hall not to good with meter readings were yellow 5.05 /2.53 blue 5.05/2.53
green2.55 /4.78 red/black 5.05
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,112
8,219
60
West Sx RH
Four of the halls generally look fine.
Red to Black 4-5v good.
Black to Y& Blue both are good, if you spin the wheel to fast you get about 2.5v which is the average voltage of 5v. If you do the test again by turning the wheel very slowly you will se the voltage switch between 0 & 5v.
Green is a little lower and is switching initially, it is likely that it is overheating as it only reaches 4.78v and a thermal cut out occurs below the 5v rating. A faulty hall can cause motor/power cut out, replacing hall should solve the problem.


You still need to rule out conflict between throttle, pas and brakes. Disconnect them all.
Reconnect pas only go for 15 min ride see what happens & disconnect again, do the same for throttle and see what happens.

Fault finding is time consuming but you need to be methodical.
 
Last edited:

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,112
8,219
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West Sx RH

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
Four of the halls generally look fine.
Red to Black 4-5v good.
Black to Y& Blue both are good, if you spin the wheel to fast you get about 2.5v which is the average voltage of 5v. If you do the test again by turning the wheel very slowly you will se the voltage switch between 0 & 5v.
Green is a little lower and is switching initially, it is likely that it is overheating as it only reaches 4.78v and a thermal cut out occurs below the 5v rating. A faulty hall can cause motor/power cut out, replacing hall should solve the problem.


You still need to rule out conflict between throttle, pas and brakes. Disconnect them all.
Reconnect pas only go for 15 min ride see what happens & disconnect again, do the same for throttle and see what happens.

Fault finding is time consuming but you need to be methodical.
 

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
Hi Nealh thanks for all your help troubleshooting tried all of last suggestions motor /power cut out 10/15 minutes I also tried a24v front wheel
only connect 3phase wires bike still cut out 10minutes... I will look at pdf file for hall sensors where can i get replacement /parts please If your down Plymouth way any time i buy you a pint.
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
755
60
Devon
If you have tried a different motor and it still cuts out, you are running out of options.:( Was the voltage reading constant when the motor cut? Got to be a fault somewhere. What do you have to do to get the bike to run again?
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
755
60
Devon
This has me stumped a bit to say the least:confused: I had a Bafang setup where my LCD displayed died and just showed a fault code. The bike would still run, but as you, would go blank and bike would stop after around 10 mins. riding.Turn it back on and the bike would run again for 10 mins. I guess it is possible you have a new faulty LED or damaged/faulty wiring between it and the controller. If you are not losing power between the battery and controller, then it does suggest this.
 

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
This has me stumped a bit to say the least:confused: I had a Bafang setup where my LCD displayed died and just showed a fault code. The bike would still run, but as you, would go blank and bike would stop after around 10 mins. riding.Turn it back on and the bike would run again for 10 mins. I guess it is possible you have a new faulty LED or damaged/faulty wiring between it and the controller. If you are not losing power between the battery and controller, then it does suggest this.
 

beesandsbasser

Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2018
34
0
77
plymouth
Hi Wheelie pete we have tried disconnecting everything in stages, but led only have one, new controller tried the 36v battery from my bike cuts out .Every thing we tried runs for about 10/ 15 minutes then power loss .dont know if motor is cutting power to led or led powering down
 

wheeliepete

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 28, 2016
2,047
755
60
Devon
The motor cannot cut the power to the LED. All LED/LCD displays I have seen have an auto shut down, but this should only work when the bike has sat idle for a period of time. I assume all the functions on the LED are working OK when the bike is running and it powers back up after shut down with no problem.