Brakes acting up yet again.

[Fat Rat]

Metal pads make a big difference
The resin ones will fade but have a better initial bite for light use
Metal ones I would suggest if your getting fade

 

[Gubbins]

Normally use these on both bikes.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Sintered-Mechanical-Hydraulic-compatible/dp/B01GU7L03C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531652358&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=GorillaBrakes&dpPl=1&dpID=41RSKsjLdLL&ref=plSrch

 

[Fat Rat]

Normally use these on both bikes.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Sintered-Mechanical-Hydraulic-compatible/dp/B01GU7L03C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531652358&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=GorillaBrakes&dpPl=1&dpID=41RSKsjLdLL&ref=plSrch

They look good and obviously ok as you use them

I also use superstar components pads
There available in resin / Kevlar / and sintered
Been using them for years with no issues

 

[Trevormonty]

Normally use these on both bikes.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gorilla-Sintered-Mechanical-Hydraulic-compatible/dp/B01GU7L03C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531652358&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=GorillaBrakes&dpPl=1&dpID=41RSKsjLdLL&ref=plSrch

Those pads aren't compatable with M7000.

Your problem is not so much quality of brakes but asking to much of them. Its all about heat build up and disposing of that heat. With M7000 you have few options
1) Used pads with fins on them Jxxx series.
2) Icetech discs, aluminum core with SS outer. Not cheap.
3) larger discs, 203mm ideally.
4) Sintered pads.

Pads are cheapest place to start. But remember disc has to be sintered compatible, cheap ones only support resin.

 

[Gubbins]

Those pads aren't compatable with M7000.

Your problem is not so much quality of brakes but asking to much of them. Its all about heat build up and disposing of that heat. With M7000 you have few options
1) Used pads with fins on them Jxxx series.
2) Icetech discs, aluminum core with SS outer. Not cheap.
3) larger discs, 203mm ideally.
4) Sintered pads.

Pads are cheapest place to start. But remember disc has to be sintered compatible, cheap ones only support resin.

 

[Gubbins]

Mmmm! So much to consider over my coffee this morning.
About compatibility.. Not on the list in the Amazon advert but its an old advert and the pads apear identical to the ones that came with both my bikes and have worked exceptionally well (on both bikes) excepting this dodgy rear.
Currently using pads that came with the calliper which seem ok but for the early fade.
Both are premium bikes so I would be surprised if they have "cheap rotors" fitted, but also bought the M700 rotor which is "ice tech" to match the calliper and both were bought being a compatible and simple bolt on change.
I agree it seems that I am asking too much but I cant be the only person to live in a hilly area or enjoy going fast down hill, but fade has been an issue on every bike I have had except the road bike and I wouldn't dare try the fast downhills on that.. That would be scary!!
I will get a few more miles in and see how it goes... hopefully initial problem is solved..

 

[Fat Rat]

When you say fade
Are you losing lever force (more travel)
Or is the lever staying the same but brake efficiency depleting

 

[Gubbins]

When you say fade
Are you losing lever force (more travel)
Or is the lever staying the same but brake efficiency depleting

The latter. Needs more and more force to slow down. I must admit to deliberately only using the rear to find out at what point it faded which was alarmingly early but normally alternate front and rear to give it a break. Once it starts to fade letting go and using the front for a few seconds brings it back but when using the gorilla sintered pads it still is liable to fade but much much later..

 

[Fat Rat]

The latter. Needs more and more force to slow down. I must admit to deliberately only using the rear to find out at what point it faded which was alarmingly early but normally alternate front and rear to give it a break. Once it starts to fade letting go and using the front for a few seconds brings it back but when using the gorilla sintered pads it still is liable to fade but much much later..

Definitely a heat issue with the pads then
Metallic pads it is I would say
Out of curiosity what discs do you run

 

[soundwave]

my bike rrp was £5500 and the rotors were shite! as soon as they get hot you got no brakes at all and then the rotors start to warp and it will eat the pads no matter what they are made of.

go down hill and touch the rotors and you will see what i mean but ever since i fitted the 203mm hope 2 part rotors on the rear not had a problem and the pads last a lot longer as there is more metal to disperse the heat from the pads.

 

[Gubbins]

Definitely a heat issue with the pads then
Metallic pads it is I would say
Out of curiosity what discs do you run

Rear Brake: Shimano SLX M675 Disc 180mm SM-RT64 CL Rotor. Now have the m7000

 

[Gubbins]

my bike rrp was £5500 and the rotors were shite! as soon as they get hot you got no brakes at all and then the rotors start to warp and it will eat the pads no matter what they are made of.

go down hill and touch the rotors and you will see what i mean but ever since i fitted the 203mm hope 2 part rotors on the rear not had a problem and the pads last a lot longer as there is more metal to disperse the heat from the pads.

I suspect more than a simple bolt off bolt on conversion

 

[Trevormonty]

my bike rrp was £5500 and the rotors were shite! as soon as they get hot you got no brakes at all and then the rotors start to warp and it will eat the pads no matter what they are made of.

go down hill and touch the rotors and you will see what i mean but ever since i fitted the 203mm hope 2 part rotors on the rear not had a problem and the pads last a lot longer as there is more metal to disperse the heat from the pads.

This is quite common, mine had XT brakes but cheap rotors. Who checks rotor quality when looking at specs.

 

[Fat Rat]

Rear Brake: Shimano SLX M675 Disc 180mm SM-RT64 CL Rotor. Now have the m7000

There not the worst rotors
There ground face rotors so should take metal pads
Look on the rotor for piece of mind thou as cheap rotors nearly always say resin only
I would still go pads first

 

[chris_n]

203mm front disc, 180mm rear. Carbon metalic pads (very noisy when wet) regularly descending 700 - 1000m vertical in one go, hairpins everywhere. Original front disc was 180, first time I took it out here I cooked it. Replaced immediately with 203 and new pads no more problems.
Once you have reached the point where you have fade you may as well put the pads in the bin!
What I do find strange is that you have this problem with the rear, the front does most of the work slowing you down. When you brake the weight moves on to the front wheel and so this grips better than the rear. If you use the rear too much you have it on for longer as if you use too much pressure you lock the wheel, this causes the rear to heat up.

 

[soundwave]

I suspect more than a simple bolt off bolt on conversion

as long as you dont mix makes ie hope rotors on avid calipers then they should just bolt on and no mods needed.

just check compatibility first and you will be fine, my hope rotors were 45 quid each.

and did not bother to check lol

 

[Gubbins]

as long as you dont mix makes ie hope rotors on avid calipers then they should just bolt on and no mods needed.

just check compatibility first and you will be fine, my hope rotors were 45 quid each.

and did not bother to check lol

If I change fron a 180 to a 200 won't it be to big to go through the caliper? Or at least move the braking surface outside the pads?

 

[soundwave]

you will need a 203mm adaptor for bigger rotors front is easy the rear not so much depending on what mount you have.

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/category/438/Disc-Brake-Adapters

 

[Fat Rat]

Try Chain Reaction Cycles
They do shimano adapters for £4.50

 

[Gubbins]

Don't want to throw more money at it than is necesary because I would like to trade it in for something that better suits my needs.