Cyclamatic Foldaway help

[Chris Jones]

Hi Folks

Purchased one of these with expectation that I would need to replace controller and hub motor. The bike is solid, gears and brakes good. The controller is Burnt out so need one of these. Motor leads Green,Blue,Yellow have all different resistances and no AC when you spin up manually. Therefore expect its shot too although visual inspection looks ok

Without resorting to SportsHQ do you know of where I can get replacements Aliexpress? Any recommendations here? Or where I can get a kit of some sorts. Thank you.

 

[Benjahmin]

I suspect the motor is a geared hub, so you wouldn't measure any voltage on spining the wheel because the clutch will not spin the rotor.
Why do you say the controller is duff? Have you measured battery voltage? The guys will probably need some photo's of the bike, controller and motor to help you.

 

[Chris Jones]

Thank you Benjahmin. The battery seems good. Good point about the geard hub, however resistance was different on all three Phases of. The controller when opened up smells of burnt pcb. Charred components and tracks.

I have attached some pictures that will hopefully help you good folks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I'd upgrade the controller to an S06S ffrom BMSBattery or the equivalent one from Greenbikekit or PSWpower (24v/36v Sinewave controller plus LCD). That will give you a much better control system. You'll have to change a few connectors and solder some wires, but it has essentially the same wires as the Cyclamatic one.. Also, there are very few controllers small enough to fit in the compartment under the battery.

I think you need to test the motor again. It's very unusual for one to burn - especially a 24v one, though not impossible.

You need to spin the wheel backwards to test the motor's generation between the three phases. If it generates on all three phases (meter on A/C of course), then it's probably OK.

A replacement will be tricky because they're wider than all the common ones. it has a 150mm axle rather than the common 135mm because of the band brake. It would probably be easiest to buy another scrap bike to get the motor from it.

One more thing: The battery holding a charge doesn't mean that it's a good battery. You really need to test or know it's actual capacity before spending a lot of money on the bike.

 

[Chris Jones]

Thank you d8veh.
I have tested the hub motor again in the reverse direction this time and with me spinning as fast as I can with one hand (other one holding the meter!) I got 5Vac from all three phases. This is a good sign right?

How can I test the battery easily?

Tried Amazon for the PSWpower + LCD but looks like all unavailable now.

Thank you for you help. You are a legend.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

This one is in stock;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24V-36V-250W-12A-Brushless-DC-Sine-Wave-Controller-LCD-or-LED-Throttle-Brake-Lever-PAS/32624195469.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.28.691f727ajwT7HF&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10341_5722915_10548_10698_5722615_10696_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_5722715_5711215_10059_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_5711315_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_19,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=afc1d3e6-a3f6-4166-b423-e9b84f42b7df-4&algo_pvid=afc1d3e6-a3f6-4166-b423-e9b84f42b7df&priceBeautifyAB=0

One other thing: when you change the controller, you'll have to flip the magnet disc on the pedal sensor to stop it from working backwards.

Testing the battery is not easy because you have to put it under load somehow. Two 12v bulbs can give you approximate capacity. the battery is supposed to be 10Ah IIRC, which is 240Wh, so 2 x 15w bulbs in series should go for 8 hours.

 

[Chris Jones]

Thank you d8veh.

I have done a load test on the battery using 2 car lamps. Total load approx 1.8 amps. Lasted over 3hr 45 which I calculated as expected run time.

Awaiting cost from SportsHQ via email / options they have, if not I will go to Aliexpress and wait.

Thank you. Will update post in case my journey helps others.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thank you d8veh.

I have done a load test on the battery using 2 car lamps. Total load approx 1.8 amps. Lasted over 3hr 45 which I calculated as expected run time.

Awaiting cost from SportsHQ via email / options they have, if not I will go to Aliexpress and wait.

Thank you. Will update post in case my journey helps others.

That seems a bit low compared with the 10.6Ah it's supposed to have. Did you calculate or measure the 1.8 amps?

 

[Chris Jones]

I measured the current with 2 12v lamps in series. 1.8amps was measured with a multimeter. I stopped the test after 3h45 as that was the calculated runtime. I believe the combines wattage of the lamps was about 45 Watts.

Do you think something is wrong?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need to do a complete test from fully-charged down to 21.0v (or cutoff) to see the capacity. I don't understand why you stopped.

 

[Chris Jones]

Hi, update. Found a controller with wires that are so close to the original. And all seems to work, I.e turn throttle and motor spins. So motor works yey!

But PAS not connected yet. So from the controller I have three cables that I need help with. Two are both three pin connectors Red,Yellow,Black. One is Male the other Female. The male plugs into the throttle and that works. Does the female plug go into the PAS sensor? Which has Red,Green,Black?

The other cable is a 2 pin. White and Brown Any ideas? It seems to have 24v across it. I used the Brown as the 24 for the yellow throttle cable for the LED’s which seems to work I.e they light up.

Any help?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Photos please.

 

[Chris Jones]

Thank you d8veh

Here they are. File3.jpg from the bike.Left to right. PAS cable, Throttle, 2xBrakes.
Motor and Power connect fine.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

OK. PAS goes to the female, but make sure that the wires match red to red and black to black etc.

The PAS will probably work backwards, which means that you have to remove the crank to get the magnet disc off and flip it over. Test it before you reassemble the chain-wheel.

 

[Chris Jones]

Thank you d8veh

How do you test the PAS? Do you use the throttle at all? Can you test when bike on a bike maintenance stand?

Sorry so many questions, but never ridden this bike as got faulty.

 

[Benjahmin]

With the bikie on a maintenance stand, take the crank off, reverse the magnetic disc, then turn power on and try rotating crank arm to see if pas is working correctly (motor should spin when you rotate forward only). If it does then you can put the crank arm back on.

 

[Chris Jones]

Thank you all that have contributed to this post. All up and running, you have made a real difference, thank you.

I have learnt a lot and want to upgrade even further now!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Nice to hear another happy ending. Did you need to flip the PAS magnet disc?

 

[Chris Jones]

Hi, I tried before flipping and it worked the right way round, so all good.

Now with a controller and motor running I have given the battery a good test. It does struggle going up inclines drops down to red and recovers when levels out to half, unsure of range yet though.

Any suggestions for a good place to get the cells renewed?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi, I tried before flipping and it worked the right way round, so all good.

Now with a controller and motor running I have given the battery a good test. It does struggle going up inclines drops down to red and recovers when levels out to half, unsure of range yet though.

Any suggestions for a good place to get the cells renewed?

It's probably cheaper to buy a new battery. you can buy them with every type of cell. you have to check the polarity before fitting it.