DIY Conversion - Voodoo Marasa

jerrysimon

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Aug 27, 2009
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Motor turned up so quick delivery but still took 5 days for BMSB to take it off the shelf and post it lol

Well/super well packed.

IMG_0457.jpg

The all important connection wire

IMG_0458.jpg

IMG_0460.jpg
IMG_0463.jpg
All looks correct spec. Wonder if I should remove the 350W sticker :(

First impressions is this motor is smaller and lighter than I expected. Lets weigh them
 
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jerrysimon

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Aug 27, 2009
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Q100

IMG_0461.jpg

Hold on that cant be right this is lighter than my narrow width Tongxin motors I use on my Brompton!

IMG_0462.jpg

Gosh, clearly things have moved on. I have to say this whole buying from China experience has been so much easier than back in 2009 when I purchased my first Tongxin back before the days of Paypal when you had no idea what or if they would send anything!

Looks like all the measurements are correct re my spoke order. The size between flanges is measured to the outside which makes sense over the given ones from BMSB which are to the inside. Spokes should be here today/tomorrow.

I guess I need to try it out with the new controller. I assume I can try the bare motor in my wheel stand before I lace it up D8veh ?



Jerry
 

Nealh

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I run them up bare in my bikes drop outs.
 
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jerrysimon

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Thanks Nealh
 
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Make sure that the motor is bolted up tight, or you'll be joining the hoards that couldn't wait and ended up with a damaged motor cable when the motor jumped out of the drop-outs (if it was ever in them). It's extremely difficult to repair the cable!

That's a genuine Aikema motor. I'm not sure whether they always were, but a few years ago I asked Aikema some questions about the motors that BMSB had. They didn't seem to know who they were, even though you could see them from their stand at the show.
 
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jerrysimon

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Thanks. Yes aware of the potential for distaster!

Do you think this motor will need a torque arm ?
 

jerrysimon

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Ok all tested after a bit of faff seems to be working with throttle.

However half way through the throttle push it seems to change its rotation sound like it's changing
gear ?

Also is this really spinning at the right speed ?


I guess for a true test I will need to lace it up ?
 
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Nealh

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The rotation change may be down to the speed signal which is configured in the P1 setting via the lcd. LCD setting has a default setting like 87, you will need to adjust this to suit your motors gear reduction ratio x 16 magnets inside. The website no longer seems to show this figure to which there are 5 five reduction figures I have seen quoted.
9.6.1
12.6.1
13.2.1
14.2.1
15.7.1
 
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jerrysimon

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What would I do without this forum!

As you state it currently set to 87.
 

jerrysimon

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P112 is def better. Need to lace it up and try before I go any further.

Thoughts on torque arms ?

I do have one in my box if bits but never used them with my Tongxins though they were always put into steel fork dropouts. I need to show some pics of the dropouts as they are not very deep and the anti rotation washers certainly wont be any use.
 

jerrysimon

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Pictures of the shaft fitting into the dropouts. Pretty much goes right in so the shaft is flush with the top of the droput ?

IMG_0467.jpg
IMG_0468.jpg
IMG_0470.jpg
And torque arm which I need to figure out which way and which side to it it on, if needed ?

IMG_0471.jpg

Won't the steel dropout insert be sufficient ?
 

Nealh

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On the gear side is the axle solely relying on the hanger drop out or is there a steel one behind it.
With steel its not necessary but with no AR washers fitted piece of mind is best. The TA axle part above could be used on it's own (as a one piece arm) without the secondary part, rotate it 180 degrees & drill a hole inline with rack fixing position ?
 
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jerrysimon

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Its in the aluminium frame droppout bolted in. I will take it off tomorrow and take a pic.

Re the TA arm that makes sense, good call,

As Ben said would be easier to put it on the other side?
 
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That looks like a 10 x 14mm torque arm instead of a 10 x 12mm one. A 14mm won't hold the axle, even though it looks strong enough and tight enough. I would always use a torque arm on aluminium drop-outs, especially when only half the nut will be clamping on the drop-out.

I always tie my torque arm to the bottom disc caliper mounting screw, but yours is complicated by the rack stay.

I think the clunking noise is the clutch fully engaging. There's not enough resistance/inertia in a light bare motor to wedge the rollers.
 
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awol

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The rotation change may be down to the speed signal which is configured in the P1 setting via the lcd. LCD setting has a default setting like 87, you will need to adjust this to suit your motors gear reduction ratio x 16 magnets inside. The website no longer seems to show this figure to which there are 5 five reduction figures I have seen quoted.
9.6.1
12.6.1
13.2.1
14.2.1
15.7.1
I'm sure I have that same rotational change on one of my motors and think you might have just solved it. Am I right in thinking all motors are x16 magnets and your numbers are rounded up/down to the nearest i.e 15.7.1 becomes 16:1 (16x16)?
 
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jerrysimon

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Yes changing the P1 setting has improved it alot.

That TA is one I purchased years ago from a supplier on here. I think it was for a front wheel ?

It may still fit. The rack has a spacer on it so if I take that off, drill a hole in the TA and then put the stay over it. I will give it a go tomorrow and come back with some pics. I haven't laced up the wheel yet so plenty of time.

Here is the pic from the other side of the dropout.

IMG_0472.jpg


Thanks again for all your replies chaps!
 

jerrysimon

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Ah you mean the shaft hole size D8veh :oops:

Yes I guess this shaft is smaller than the ones way back.

So where can I get a new TA ?

Just checked this old one was Cyclezeeso guess I need to order one from them

Yikes but not with £4.48 dielivery!
 

Nealh

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I'm sure I have that same rotational change on one of my motors and think you might have just solved it. Am I right in thinking all motors are x16 magnets and your numbers are rounded up/down to the nearest i.e 15.7.1 becomes 16:1 (16x16)?
Yes you could round up to the nearest whole number, 256 is the max P1 setting you can go so 16 x 16.
Not sure how Jerry got 112 though unless it was just trial and error ?
 
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I'll have a look if I've got one. I'm pretty sure that I do. In the meantime, send me your address by PM.
 
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