Help my LCD lost its settings P1-P16

[Thomas Bremnes]

Help,

I finally got a 12 magnet PAS to replace my old cracked 5 magnet one.
Wired the bike back up turned it on display looked normal.
But the only things that work are throttle, walk assist, power assist up/down and brake cutoffs
No speed odo is fixed at 360km when i look in parameters up and down button simu.... speed limit is 100 P15 is 009567.
Most parameters looks changed.
What to do? plz help.
Controller is generic chinese 36V (see pic) 3 + 6 pin conn to motor.
Motor iss (MXUs XF08 36v 250w rear hub)
LCD ??? see pics probably some old kingmeter

As i wasnt clever enough to write down the old settings i need help/advise on what to do.
I have a new lcd as well a king meter nokee but dont think the org is broken.
And dont know if the kingmeter is compatable with my controller, motor and so on.

I checked the wires with my fluke too

Thx

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I'm sorting out a similar problem on a bike where I replaced the controller. I have everything working except the speed display.

This listing might help you. You might be lucky and have exactly that one, but there's many similar controllers that have the parameters in a different sequence or they have slightly different parameters. For each parameter, you have to scroll through the available values and compare it with those in the list. Many are obvious, but you can get the rest by experimentation and elimination:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/electric-scooter-LCD-display-controller-24v36v48v-250w350w-conrtrol-panel-sensor-hall-sensorless-ebike-tricycle-scooter-parts/32794106132.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.59.VfYRJN&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10548_10341_10192_10190_10084_10083_10613_10615_10307_10614_10301_10303_10059_10314_10184_10534_100031_10604_10103_10142,searchweb201603_1,ppcSwitch_4_ppcChannel&algo_expid=63ae1243-d2b4-4129-8386-8b2501eb7663-9&algo_pvid=63ae1243-d2b4-4129-8386-8b2501eb7663&priceBeautifyAB=0

You didn't show all the wires, so it's difficult to help you with the wiring, but if I had to guess, the brown and yellow wires are either for a reverse switch or the lights. Lights are normally yellow and black though.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Another thought. I fitted a 12 magnet PAS to a bike that had a broken 6 magnet one. The new PAS didn't work. I solved it by removing half of the magnets.

Also, the 12 magnet PASs are sometimes left hand or right hand ones, so they cannot be fitted on the bike. Before fitting a PAS, you should always test it to see which direction and which orientation of the magnet disc (4 possibilities) gives the correct response. Did you try turning the pedals backwards to see if the motor responds. If it does, you must flip the magnet disc.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

Another thought. I fitted a 12 magnet PAS to a bike that had a broken 6 magnet one. The new PAS didn't work. I solved it by removing half of the magnets.

Also, the 12 magnet PASs are sometimes left hand or right hand ones, so they cannot be fitted on the bike. Before fitting a PAS, you should always test it to see which direction and which orientation of the magnet disc (4 possibilities) gives the correct response. Did you try turning the pedals backwards to see if the motor responds. If it does, you must flip the magnet disc.

Hi.

Thx, the only wires changed are to the new PAS, only tried it relying on the led only lights up when its turning the right way but will try and take it off again and try all 4 ways to be sure. there are arrows on the disc but none on the reader so assumed when it was spinning right the led flashes for each magnet or so.
Damn waited 3 mths on that kit LOL.
Hoping the 12 magnets will solve the "aggressive" riding in the city tried all other settings crazy 16" foldable bike. My most important park at the kids school then 13km each way saves me 1000$ a mth in parking, gas, and always in the trunk (not the battery though drains quick in the cold).

I'll get on it will report back have a nice one and thx again

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Maybe setting P13 to 12 will solve it. Normally, if the red lLED flashes, the PAS is working correctly.

I just put a new controller (the one in the link) on a bike that had a 12 magnet PAS. The red light was flashing, but there was no response, so I changed to a 5 magnet PAS, which fixed it. I didn't know about P13 when I did that. It might have saved a lot of work.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

Maybe setting P13 to 12 will solve it. Normally, if the red lLED flashes, the PAS is working correctly.

I just put a new controller (the one in the link) on a bike that had a 12 magnet PAS. The red light was flashing, but there was no response, so I changed to a 5 magnet PAS, which fixed it. I didn't know about P13 when I did that. It might have saved a lot of work.

And liftoff ...... literally forgot how powerful that motor is LOL ...

And found the correct manual with the EU settings specified.
http://www.shinga.nl/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Manual-LCD-display-May-2015-V3.4.2-EN.pdf

These standard settings apply for Europe with the exception of the U.K.: P01=3, P02=0, P03=36, P04=0, P05=1, P06=20, P07=1, P08=25, P09=1, P10=2, P11=2, P12=1, P13=8, P14=14

P15 i set to 0 for now (had to click from 957 to 0 ....

Now all thats missing is the speed but tommorow ill change those crappy cheap connectors wire it properly on the bike and try outside

 

[Deleted member 4366]

And liftoff ...... literally forgot how powerful that motor is LOL ...

And found the correct manual with the EU settings specified.
http://www.shinga.nl/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Manual-LCD-display-May-2015-V3.4.2-EN.pdf

These standard settings apply for Europe with the exception of the U.K.: P01=3, P02=0, P03=36, P04=0, P05=1, P06=20, P07=1, P08=25, P09=1, P10=2, P11=2, P12=1, P13=8, P14=14

P15 i set to 0 for now (had to click from 957 to 0 ....

Now all thats missing is the speed but tommorow ill change those crappy cheap connectors wire it properly on the bike and try outside

I've been trying to get the speed display to work for three days, but made zero progress. It has the separate white wire on the hall connector, but I can't figure out why it won't accept any sort of signal.

That manual seems to match my settings exactly, but I just noticed that my P07 is set to 40, so one more thing to try.

Thanks for the link. I spent hours looking for a manual.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

I've been trying to get the speed display to work for three days, but made zero progress. It has the separate white wire on the hall connector, but I can't figure out why it won't accept any sort of signal.

That manual seems to match my settings exactly, but I just noticed that my P07 is set to 40, so one more thing to try.

Thanks for the link. I spent hours looking for a manual.

Update.....

Tried the bike today -5 C and snow.
Conclusion :
The 12 magnets sure makes a difference vs 5 but its still messed up.

Working:
PAS Levels (with 3 kind of normal on all 3) (with 5, level 5 makes it a scooter with cruise controll speed limited by amps only speed limiter dont work)
Battery level and voltage.
Throttle
6 km assist.
Disc brake cutoffs

NOT working
Speed measure
Odo
Total km always on 360km
Current from battery not displaying
Powermeter not working

Its even more jumpy now as it reacts instantly almost when pedaling but i know where to fix that one.

Wont spend more time on this controller and display need one that will be dimensioned a bit better for the 36V 16A battey the org was 10A but i replaced all the batteries and BMS this summer or sent it to a company for that one.

Im pretty sure its not the motor causing these problems. So now i rather spend time finding a new controller and lcd that will work space for the controller is pretty good.

My other bike will soon be repaired after another theft attempt been at the bikeshop for almost 6 weeks the wonders of non-china bikes.
But easier to get hooked up to that ones can than this one.
In my case its the old comms but since i dont have the default values anyway not worth it. I have a chinese manual pdf somewhere that has more details.

If you or any one else have recommendations on a new controller and lcd replacement. Preferrably with removable display or none at all (bluetooth and phone instead).

Motor is a XF08 36v 250w rear hub
6 gears, discbrakes

Thx

 

[Deleted member 4366]

For 36v and hall sensor motor, the S06S from BBSBattery. You can get the bluetooth dongle for it, but then you have to change assistance levels with your phone.

After setting my two controllers with the manual in your link, both are functioning perfectly. They're slightly different to yours and marked "Brainpower". Cheaper than S06S, but not as good.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

For 36v and hall sensor motor, the S06S from BBSBattery. You can get the bluetooth dongle for it, but then you have to change assistance levels with your phone.

After setting my two controllers with the manual in your link, both are functioning perfectly. They're slightly different to yours and marked "Brainpower". Cheaper than S06S, but not as good.

Awesome

Mine used to as well using that same manual works now as well just the display that is weird. Your link btw sent me to the UK law page. Checked my country laws to see if it's required by law to have a display but not what I can find. Looked at the site and controller you suggeated sadly it cost more to ship than to buy
Finally got my main bike back from repair so haven't used the other that much. And changing settings through phone is fine I normally have it folded up in the trunk just power on when I need to go around in the city by bike. Never or very Selden change anything then. Assist always on 3 of 5 dangerous as hell on bike here hehe so rarely get much faster than 20km/h although it does 40 easy with just throttle if I change some settings but prefer pedals only

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Just to complete the story on mine. setting P7 to 1 solved my speed display. I had two of these controllers. One had P7 set to 100, the other set to 40. That's the number of pulses from the speed sensor per rotation. No wonder it kept showing zero speed, when 100 rotations count as one.

There was also another setting that made a throttle symbal appear on the display. It had a weird effect that the PAS would only work once. If you stopped at all, it wouldn't re-engage. I can't think why anybody would want that. I can't remember the setting, but I'm pretty sure that it was P10=0. The throttle symbal disappeared from the LCD and everything worked like it should.

Once I got it working, I can say that these are very versatile controllers because they're dual mode with self-learning. The motor isn't as smooth and quiet as a sine wave controller, but still not bad. They're particularly useful if you have a sensorless motor:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24v36v48v250w350w-controller-LCD-display-manual-control-panel-dashboard-for-electric-scooter-ebike-moped-mtb-tricycle-dualmode/32794564818.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.84.5ca01565Lt1Hg5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10548_10341_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_5711211_5722315_10313_10059_10184_10534_100031_10629_10103_10626_10625_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=35d818b8-a117-4aeb-ae43-834d2d27397e-12&algo_pvid=35d818b8-a117-4aeb-ae43-834d2d27397e&priceBeautifyAB=0

There's also this one that has a different LCD and is a bit cheaper. It also has a separate speed limit set by an adjuster screw. For both of these controllers, select the 350w version, which is 14 amps by default, Adjustable by P14 up to 20 amps.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24v36v48V250W350W-BLDC-motor-speed-controller-LCD-display-set-FOR-MTB-Electric-Bike-Scooter-LCD-control-panel/32793445834.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.63.5ca01565Lt1Hg5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10548_10341_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10301_10303_5711211_5722315_10313_10059_10184_10534_100031_10629_10103_10626_10625_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_4&algo_expid=35d818b8-a117-4aeb-ae43-834d2d27397e-9&algo_pvid=35d818b8-a117-4aeb-ae43-834d2d27397e&priceBeautifyAB=0

 

[Nealh]

The controller kit sounds pretty good, dual voltage like the KT's but with added bonus of varying the amps with
out modding the shunt.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

Dusted off and looked at the bike again.... after enjoying the amazing summer (or most of it after being hit by a car,with no more than a multifractured foot and a cracked helmet after it probably saved my life) on my other Bosch powered hardtail im now in a different situation with a very sick mother whom i thought with the healthcare system for months to get her an electric 4 wheel scooter so she can perhaps be given the possibility to drive down the pathway of the ocean/sea as one of her last wishes.

As she lives a good 1hr drive away the other bike is not suitable to take with me and she won't go or dares on her own.

So old foldy got dusted off, gave up on the old display and controller it just ended up more and more weird. It has been sitting for a while (inside battery disconnected but totally forgot about it) but charged the battery works fine was pretty much all new (new batteries, bms and so on). So without thinking it all through or reading up on it all I took a chance as time isn't something I have much of on this project. I ordered 2 new controllers, 3 different pas models (been giving me trouble before) 2 LCD's new wires connectors and other stuff all from bms and I received my order yesterday 4 days shipping/packing only

Not knowing the status of the motor and battery I went for the S06S sinewave ctrl and the S06S-BL torque simulation (Bluetooth built in) and one LCD3 and a LCD5 display.

And of course should have read more about those controllers before buying and hooking the first one up. One main reason for that choose of ctrls are later project as I got an st2-link dongle as well

So hooked up LCD3 and the Bluetooth version of S06S first along with 12 mag easyfit was and a twist throttle. Motor is the same old mxus XF08 battery 36V 14A.

Fired it up, all looking good but no pas function and using throttle spins motor slow then throws error 3 after some seconds.

I go through all settings P1 45? Xf08 10 poles x 4.46 checks all other settings in LCD3 and the Android app.
Same error. Check pas light blinking rotation correct, tries the next pas, same errors, change to LCD5 and by coincidence forgot PAS. Now throttle and motor works fine try LCD3 works fine as well with only throttle but I primarily want to pedal and use PAS.

So I will now after morning coffee before work try with only pas as I read they don't really like to coexist at the same time?

So first question is that so with the torque SIM controllers? Is speed sensor needed?

Anyone who tried with the open-source firmware? Is it worth the time and work to change the stock? If so what's the best benefit from it?

More pictures and parameters and tech later

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

New PAS's

 

[Nealh]

List you P settings 1 -5 and C settings 1 -14.


10 poles fo the hub seems an unusual number but may be correct most geared hubs use 16 poles, so this might be a strating point to configure P1 and then it can be fine tuned to match the final odo speed reading to real time speed.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

I got it working atleast inside waiting for real test outside when it stops snowing found the info on ratio and the poles from reseller.

P1 45
P2 5
P3 1
P4 0
P5 15
C1 06
C2 0
C3 3
C4 0
C5 10
C6 3
C7 1
C8 1
C9 0
C10 n
C11 0
C12 4
C13 0
C14 2

 

[Nealh]

P2 seems an odd figure but if it works so be it, try 1 or 6.

C1 is dependant on which pas sensor you are using . For V reverse series try 05-07, for other types try 00 - 02.

C3 0 or 8 works for me.
C7 0 , I don't use cruise.
C8 0 might as well be off as you can't get motor temp unless you fit a sensor for one.
C14 is pas signal strength 3 is strongest.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

P2 seems an odd figure but if it works so be it, try 1 or 6.

C1 is dependant on which pas sensor you are using . For V reverse series try 05-07, for other types try 00 - 02.

C3 0 or 8 works for me.
C7 0 , I don't use cruise.
C8 0 might as well be off as you can't get motor temp unless you fit a sensor for one.
C14 is pas signal strength 3 is strongest.

Hi thanks for your quick reply's

I took it for a spin in the snow displayed speed is about 2x real speed (guess as it's impossible to check with GPS atm)

Ok some more info

C1 - I use KT-D12L Pas
P2 - I'll try changing agree it's a weird number
C3 - I'll try new settings
C7 - I'll switch it off
C8 - I do get another temp reading than the normal one in motor temp, but guess that's not correct then? See attached pic
C14 - I set to 3?

I'll change one parameter at the time and try it out

Again thanks a lot

 

[Nealh]

For speed reading to be right P2 needs to be set first so 1 or 6, then you can fine tune using P1, Lower value increase readout, higher value reduces readout.
I can get readout close to my Garmin readout though between the pair there is a time lag and they don't always agree nut when at an even pace they are within 0.3mph.


My 8fun cst when free wheeling doesn't give a speed read out with P1 /1 but my Yose cst and Q128c do, so I use P1/ 6 and 8fun is happy.

C1 try 00-02.

Yes, wholesale changes doesn't tell you much just that something you change worked so one at a time to see if there is an improvement.

 

[Thomas Bremnes]

0

For speed reading to be right P2 needs to be set first so 1 or 6, then you can fine tune using P1, Lower value increase readout, higher value reduces readout.
I can get readout close to my Garmin readout though between the pair there is a time lag and they don't always agree nut when at an even pace they are within 0.3mph.


My 8fun cst when free wheeling doesn't give a speed read out with P1 /1 but my Yose cst and Q128c do, so I use P1/ 6 and 8fun is happy.

C1 try 00-02.

Yes, wholesale changes doesn't tell you much just that something you change worked so one at a time to see if there is an improvement.

Ok, so after mainly even worse results and found the "sweet combo"

It seems if i use/used or started the app (bluetooth androind) PAS stoppes working different settings in the app i guess that overrides. But uninstalled it and removed bt antenna on ctrl

Speed is correct now, really runs smooth top speed (too fast 16" wheels and its a foldable).

Compared it to GPS speed from mapmyride seems pretty accurate now


Is the "motor W" value that is shown on the lcd of any use/correct?

Was still icy and snow outside and only did a quick mockup with the cables/wires will continue on that later.

But its alive and kickin forgot how fun it was to ride and how backheavy it is... would love to put the battery somewhere else on the bike but havent found a good solution yet.


So
P1 - 46
P2 -1
C1 - 7
C2 -0
C3 - 0
C7 - 0
C8 - 0
C14 -2

PAS used KT-D12-L
Ctrl S06S-BL sinewave torque sim.
Motor - Rear XF08
LCD - S-LCD3 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers

Battery - Samsung 36V 14A custom update from 10A

Thanks alot next up is the other controller S06S with the opensource firmware and will probably switch to the LCD5 instead as its smaller.