Hydraulic Disc brakes

[phil01]

Hi all, pondering with the idea of upgrading my mechanical disc set up with hydraulics, but my only reservation is so I really need to?.
Last night a did a few test rides with heavy braking down a steeping hill and got up to 26.8mph.
I used two finger pressure on the levers and with that force I was able to lock up the rear brake and skid on each test and the front I could have easily locked it up and had to reduce finger pressure to stop me doing a face plant over the bars.
So with my brake set up would I gain much from changing to hydraulics?

 

[phil01]

Hi all, pondering with the idea of upgrading my mechanical disc set up with hydraulics, but my only reservation is so I really need to?.
Last night a did a few test rides with heavy braking down a steeping hill and got up to 26.8mph.
I used two finger pressure on the levers and with that force I was able to lock up the rear brake and skid on each test and the front I could have easily locked it up and had to reduce finger pressure to stop me doing a face plant over the bars.
So with my brake set up would I gain much from changing to hydraulics?

Brake pads used are cheapo resin with copper particles £.179p from eBay.

 

[danielrlee]

Hi all, pondering with the idea of upgrading my mechanical disc set up with hydraulics, but my only reservation is so I really need to?.
Last night a did a few test rides with heavy braking down a steeping hill and got up to 26.8mph.
I used two finger pressure on the levers and with that force I was able to lock up the rear brake and skid on each test and the front I could have easily locked it up and had to reduce finger pressure to stop me doing a face plant over the bars.
So with my brake set up would I gain much from changing to hydraulics?

There are two areas that you'll experience improvements with by upgrading to hydraulic brakes:

1. Hydro brakes require no adjustment once set up, unlike mechanical brakes that require a certain amount of fettling as the pads wear and the cable/sleeve stretches.
2. Hydro brakes enable a much higher degree of modulation than mechanical brakes giving greater control.

I really wouldn't consider anything else these days.

 

[phil01]

There are two areas that you'll experience improvements with by upgrading to hydraulic brakes:

1. Hydro brakes require no adjustment once set up, unlike mechanical brakes that require a certain amount of fettling as the pads wear and the cable/sleeve stretches.
2. Hydro brakes enable a much higher degree of modulation than mechanical brakes giving greater control.

I really wouldn't consider anything else these days.

Thanks for reply, still toying with the idea, as the maintenance aspect isn't an issue with me as I am a Lexus Master technician, I asking hear what you are saying regarding to feel/brake force applied but I really can as you say modulate the effort needed, I really can judge lock up even on gravel/dust and adjust accordingly..
But I may upgrade just for the luxury of knowing I'm using hydraulics.
Thanks for your feedback.

 

[Benjahmin]

I recently upgraded my front Tektro mech to Deore hydraulic. I did it for two reasons, firstly the mech was pulsing, much like a rim brake on a buckled wheel. Yet there was no sign of the disc being buckled.
Secondly I was running short of braking power on some of the steeper hills here. Not sure if the pads had been contaminated.
Anyway, Deore fron was £40ish and is well worth it. Effortless two finger operation with great feel and graduation.
Also renewed rear Tektro pads so have all the stop I need. Despite rear rack battery can do a stoppy if wanted.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Thinking of putting hydraulics on my stealth, as I will be keeping it as a second bike in the future.
Not quite sure what to look for, lots of variation in prices, here are a few on ebay....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151947340760?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311819132549?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=610685733241&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Are they any good?

 

[Nealh]

The 2nd link Andy is a Chink copy of the Shimano's 315's.
The 300,400 and quite a few in the 500 range use the same 2 piston caliper and same B01S pads.
The number 315, 355 445 etc,etc refer more to the lever unit used the 315 lever is a 3 finger lever a bit long and spindly, the others tend to be a 2 finger lever and a bit shorter and better looking.

Resin/organic pads are a bit soft and wear quickly also not as good in the wet, semi metallic or metallic/sintered are better.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Given the choice, I wouldn't use anything other than hydraulic disc brakes. everything else can be cheap, but the brakes are one thing I wouldn't compromise on. The main thing about hydraulic brakes, apart from the improved control is the sheer reliability and consistency of performance. You know that they will always work when you need them. Once you've changed over, I guarantee that you'll never want to go back. Just about any branded ones are OK. They don't cost much either.

I always use standard pads (Resin). My last ones were changed at 4000 miles and they were about half worn. I paid £4 per pair from Ebay.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Thanks Nealh and d8veh...I wont hijack the thread any further, I'll keep my eyes open for something suitable

 

[Woosh]

if it were not for the exorbitant price manufacturers charge for sensored hydraulic brakes, I'd have put them on all my bikes.
Sensored HDBs cost twice as much as normal version.
see how much Dillinger charge for a pair of Tektro Dorado:
http://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/spares/brakes/hydraulic-e-brake-sets/tektro-dorado-hd-e710-180mm-hydraulic-brake-set.html

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Wow, they are pricey. Something I need to look at doing is working out how to have the break cut outs still working if i change

 

[gray198]

I bought a pair of Clarke's exo skeleton for £25 from a local shop selling up. Only entry level but far superior to the Tektro novella cable discs

 

[Trevormonty]

Bike.discount.de sell front + rear M365 set for about €40. NB front is left, if you need to swap get bleed kit + bleed block and fluid. You will need it eventually and will allow for neater installation of rear hose. M365 excellent for road and light trail, for advance MTB I go with M615 or SLX.
May also consider 180mm disk on front, you will need a spacer.

 

[phil01]

The 2nd link Andy is a Chink copy of the Shimano's 315's.
The 300,400 and quite a few in the 500 range use the same 2 piston caliper and same B01S pads.
The number 315, 355 445 etc,etc refer more to the lever unit used the 315 lever is a 3 finger lever a bit long and spindly, the others tend to be a 2 finger lever and a bit shorter and better looking.

Resin/organic pads are a bit soft and wear quickly also not as good in the wet, semi metallic or metallic/sintered are better.

Curiosity now.
I have resin pads with sintered metal copper and brass particles embedded,
Is this normal for resin pads?

 

[phil01]

And one more question.
Is the calliper mounting holes the same spacing for mechanical as for hydraulic,
So basically remove and refit or is there different calliper mounting size holes?
Thanks all for your replies.
Seen some 2nd shimano front hydraulics for £20.
I think it's time for an upgrade.

 

[Woosh]

Is the calliper mounting holes the same spacing for mechanical as for hydraulic,

yes.

 

[phil01]

yes.

Thanks Woosh

 

[Nealh]

Curiosity now.
I have resin pads with sintered metal copper and brass particles embedded,
Is this normal for resin pads?

They will be the semi metallic one's, a bit harder wearing then the bog std resins and a bit quieter giving better wet braking.