Izip Skyline Shut Down Problem

Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
Hello!

I have just joined the forum after buying two as new Izip Skyline bikes from a dear friend who has only used them a couple of times since new 14 months ago. The batteries have been kept charged during his ownership.

I have a small problem with my wife's one in that the PAS works very well while under load but tends to shut down on over-run i.e. the start button has to be pressed again on the battery monitor on the handlebars to wake things up.

Can anyone please advise what the possible cause(s) might be?

Where can spares for these bikes might be sourced in the UK/elewhere?

Your help is much appreciated
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
There's two versions: the later one with a hub-motor that's the same as many ebikes; the earlier one with the motor on the side of the back wheel. Which one is yours? Is the switch you're referring to in a LED panel with three levels of pedal assistance? If it is, and it goes off, it means that the supply from the battery is being interrupted, but the fact that it only does it on the overrun is interesting. Could you lift the back wheel, and check that it spins freely in the forward direction, but with some resistance backwards? If it's the same in both directions, it means that your clutch is stuck and the motor becomes a generator when on the overrun.

If it's the later type, it's all standard Chines stuff, so lots of alternative suppliers.
 
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Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
Gents, my thanks to you both for the info!

d8veh

1. Mine is the hub motor
2. It is the LED panel with three levels of assistance
3. I tried spinning the wheel without the chain on both bikes and find there is some drag when spinning backwards on both, the ladies one in question appears to have a little more drag than the gents.
I then retested the bike and find that it cuts out irrespective of when being driven or on the over-run - I must have misread the symptoms yesterday, sorry. The cut first appears from cold after about 400 yards the cuts irregularly after that 50-300 yards irrespective of what setting it is on.
Thanks again for your help
 

Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
Hi Frank,


I have already tried that and the result is the same. I shall try swopping the controllers this afternoon to see if that finds the cause.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Does it go off when you hit a bump, or just by itself when unprovoked? At full ppower or at low power too?
 

Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
Swopped out the controller with no change, then tried the swopped controller with the other battery - no change either.

It shuts off without any provocation no matter what level of power is on.

I have also checked all wiring connections and they are good. Could it be the LED panel at fault maybe?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Next thing to try is to disconnect the brake connectors from the controller to see if it still cuts out.

If I understand correctly, the same bike cuts out even though you swapped the battery and the controller from the other bike? Can you confirm that?

Also check if there's a multi-pin connector near the motor. Follow the cable all the way from the controller to the motor because they're sometimes hidden. If there is one, have a good look inside, and make sure that it's then pressed fully home.
 

Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
It still cuts out with the brakes disconnected.

Confirm the same bike cuts out even though I swapped the battery and the controller from the other bike

There are two small connectors + three bullet connectors inside a sealed box near the motor (on both bikes) these have been double checked, they are clean, fit tightly and are passing current ok..
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That only leaves two things then. First try swapping the LED panels. Second, have a good look at the pins that connect with the battery. Take the whole plate out and have a look at the connection of the wires to the pins underneath. You'll probably have to peel back some shrink-sleeving.
 

KirstinS

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 5, 2011
3,224
899
Brighton
are you able to fashion, beg or borrow a workstand ?

I just thought that if the disconnects can be proved to never happen when there are no bumps or road buzz (even tiny ones) but do always happen in real world conditions - then this would lend some additional evidence towards an intermittent/dodgy connection being the problem (somehwhere !)
 

Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
The LED panels were swapped out and that has cured the problem....anyone know where I can get another one? I poked and prodded the components on the PCB without any success just in case it was perhaps a dry soldered joint somewhere

My problem is that I am off to France on holiday on Monday and was hoping to use them there. Is there some way of bypassing the LED panel to give say, the middle setting constantly?

The pins for the battery connection are fine. I cannot peel anything back as the wire to pin connections are embodied in a plastic moulding.

I will check the battery fuse connection anyway

Kirsten, thanks for your input..... I have the same problem when the bike is stationary
 
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shemozzle999

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2009
2,826
686
The led panel outputs a voltage level of between 1v to 4v back to the controller if you can jerry rig a potentiometer off the 5v/0v supply leads and feed the tapped voltage into the controller then the throttle should be operational which would give you a temporary fix.
 
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D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The led panel outputs a voltage level of between 1v to 4v back to the controller if you can jerry rig a potentiometer off the 5v/0v supply leads and feed the tapped voltage into the controller then the throttle should be operational which would give you a temporary fix.
Are you sure about that? The ones I've looked at worked off battery voltage. They had a red wire that carries the battery voltage to the panel, a blue one that carries the battery voltage back to the controller when the switch is on, a black ground wire, and a green signal wire. The green signal wire tells the controller the PAS level and other information by codes, not signal level.

The only thing I'd try is to verify that the two wires have battery voltage when switched on, then try bridging them to see if it'll allow throttle operation, or it might default to a PAS level. I think someone else tried that, but it didn't work, but it's worth a try.
 

shemozzle999

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2009
2,826
686
As far as I am aware from the King Meter site is that all the led unit does is monitor the battery state and provides a stepped PAS control level voltage, the individual step levels can be set via a programme.
 

shemozzle999

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2009
2,826
686
The LED panels were swapped out and that has cured the problem....anyone know where I can get another one? I poked and prodded the components on the PCB without any success just in case it was perhaps a dry soldered joint somewhere
Double check the connector on the end of the lead of the non working one, usually it is a 4 male pin connector, all the pin ends should be level inside the housing and when you gently pull on the wires the pin should remain locked in the connector housing.
 

Whurlyburd

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jul 24, 2013
16
0
Montrose, Angus
I have five wires on my plug, red, pink, purple, blue and black , in that order. I get 5v across the red and black.

I do not have a throttle on this bike, only PAS

Just checked the meter plug too and it has the same five wires???

Is the king meter an alternative I can use?
 
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