KT-LCD3 battery accuracy settings

[mags2]

Do these normally show inaccurate battery bars or do they need to be calibrated to a particular battery?

 

[Nealh]

Why bother with battery bar accuracy when you have the live voltage read out which is accurate.

 

[Hightechpete]

Why bother with battery bar accuracy when you have the live voltage read out which is accurate.

The LCD3 functions are new to me, I was led to believe that battery voltage is not the best indicator of power remaining. Can it show total watt usage since last reset?.

 

[Nealh]

Can it show total watt usage since last reset?.

No.
The lcd3 is accurate at reading voltage so I use it all the time as a fuel gauge and have yet to ride home without power. My latest ride out was 100.4miles and returned home with both batteries (in parallel) reading 47.8v, 42.9 - 44.5 is my lower voltage range if required. 50+ miles of range theoretically still available.
I see about 17 miles to every 1 volt decrease from 53.6v down, I discount anything between 53.6 - 54.6v as there is very little energy stored in this range.
As back up I have a watt meter wired up in the pannier top bag which gauges wh/ah used.

 

[anotherkiwi]

No.
The lcd3 is accurate at reading voltage so I use it all the time as a fuel gauge and have yet to ride home without power. My latest ride out was 100.4miles and returned home with both batteries (in parallel) reading 47.8v, 42.9 - 44.5 is my lower range. 50+ miles of range theoretically still available.
I see about 17 miles to every 1 volt decrease from 53.6 down, I discount anything between 53.6 - 54.6v as there is very little energy stored in this range.
As back up I have a watt meter wired up in the pannier top bag which gauges wh/ah used.

Nerd...

 

[mags2]

Why bother with battery bar accuracy when you have the live voltage read out which is accurate.

Ah i guess so but it stands out a lot better and doesn't need switching screens every time. I just thought there was some setting for it but i guess not?

I've never let the battery get too low so im not sure what voltage is a bad sign and how long it will last beyond that point. I only have a small 8ah 36v battery which should be enough for a bunch of rides around town but i never expect to take it on more than a few miles per ride yet. They said it do up to 25 miles but i reckon it be half that to be honest. I haven't had time to really test yet.

Im guessing the voltage isn't a steady linear decrease over time but likely drops off past a certain point?

 

[wheeliepete]

Because both the battery and controller have a low voltage cutoff, LVC, usually around 31-33v, to prevent over discharge,they will produce power until this voltage is reached, although towards the end of charge, this can cut in and out depending on terrain and demand. You will notice some drop in performance as the voltage decreases.

 

[Nealh]

8ah is 288wh for 36v so 25 miles is more then capable in low pas use.
All depends on terrain/ hills & winds etc.

 

[mags2]

That's good to hear thanks!

 

[Nealh]

I've never let the battery get too low so im not sure what voltage is a bad sign and how long it will last beyond that point. I only have a small 8ah 36v battery which should be enough for a bunch of rides around town but i never expect to take it on more than a few miles per ride yet. They said it do up to 25 miles but i reckon it be half that to be honest. I haven't had time to really test yet.

Im guessing the voltage isn't a steady linear decrease over time but likely drops off past a certain point?

If you hammer it in pas 5 then 10/12 miles is all you will see, using pas 1 or 2 is best for extending range with occasional higher assist if needed. With favourable conditions or down hill use no watts in pas 0 for extra miles and save the 'mah' for when it's needed.

 

[Hightechpete]

47.8v, 42.9 - 44.5 is my lower voltage range if required. 50+ miles of range theoretically still available.

I expect I'll get the hang of it. After yesterday's run there were no bars left on the display and the voltage was 35.9, I think I'd call it flat.
Before anyone derides me for hammering the battery, I don't really care, the sooner this one dies, the sooner I can justify the purchase of a bigger capacity.
Pete.

 

[mags2]

If you hammer it in pas 5 then 10/12 miles is all you will see, using pas 1 or 2 is best for extending range with occasional higher assist if needed. With favourable conditions or down hill use no watts in pas 0 for extra miles and save the 'mah' for when it's needed.

So far i've been mostly using pas 3 as it takes me up to full speed with some effort and feel best with the hub doing more of the work. Pas 2 is ok but it feels like im then doing a fair bit more of the work to keep speed up.

I noticed it jumps up to 400w at first but then once at speed it uses around 100w. Im unsure whats ok and normal for these ebikes?

As far as battery usage i guess i should just see what my setup is like and run it down for once.