Problem with Yose power front wheel kit

[TJS109]

Hi,

Just assembled one of these kits and it will not drive the motor even in walk mode. LCD operates correctly, the motor jerks and then stops. If repeated the display shows error 6 short circuit motor controller.
I did change and re-wire the pas sensor and so could have got the wiring wrong and fried the controller. However the voltage levels are the same as before connection and the fault occurs with the sensor removed. I will contact the seller but before I do is there any obvious fault finding procedure I could carry out.
Thanks in advance for any help

Tim

 

[Nealh]

Pull the motor cable connector a part and reconnect, ensure it is fully up to the line and arrows are aligned.
If the controller was fried you wouldn't get any stuttering.
Recheck the sensor wiring for polarity and order sequence.
Remove battery disconnect everything and reinstall.

These kits should be fool proof as all is plug and play.

Check C2 parameter should be set to 0.

 

[TJS109]

Pull the motor cable connector a part and reconnect, ensure it is fully up to the line and arrows are aligned.
If the controller was fried you wouldn't get any stuttering.
Recheck the sensor wiring for polarity and order sequence.
Remove battery disconnect everything and reinstall.

These kits should be fool proof as all is plug and play.

Check C2 parameter should be set to 0.

Thanks for that.
I have checked all the connections and no change. It is not quite plug and play because I wired in a different PAS sensor. However I have wired up the original and checked the signals with a DVM and it seems to switch between 0 and 5v with rotation of the sensor. Also the motor will stutter as I rotate the sensor so I do not think I have damaged anything after all. C2 is set to 0. I anticipate difficulties sending the unit back due to the modified wiring but we will see.

 

[Nealh]

Stuttering is often due to wrong motor phase or hall sequence., being that these are all julet connected it may be possible that it is a production wiring error. C2 has 7 options so you could try each one to see if it improves the situation.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you check that the motor connector was "all the way to the line"?

 

[TJS109]

Hi, Yes I pulled it out and re-plugged it in, it is correct. The fault is not really a "stutter" I get one twitch out of the motor and then nothing. It is like the battery collapses after the motor takes some current and the system resets, although the display does not reset. The battery is OK as I use it on another bike, the plug and lead is different though. Also I cannot seem to change the programming, the parameters change but reset when I exit program mode and recheck. The max speed is set at 76KmH. Might be finger trouble I will retest today but I think I have a genuine controller fault. Pretty much decided to give up and contact the supplier, will see how that goes.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Whatever you do, don't give the motor full power while it's like that or you'll blow the controller.

You keep saying that the motor connector is OK, but not once have you confirmed that it's all the way to the guide line.

The problem is that your controller isn't giving all the correctly timed pulses to the motor. That's normally a connection problem if we assume that the controller matches the motor, like it does when you buy them together in a kit. Other causes are faulty hall sensors in the motor or brown MOSFETs in the controller, but those causes would be unusual in a new kit.

 

[TJS109]

Whatever you do, don't give the motor full power while it's like that or you'll blow the controller.

You keep saying that the motor connector is OK, but not once have you confirmed that it's all the way to the guide line.

The problem is that your controller isn't giving all the correctly timed pulses to the motor. That's normally a connection problem if we assume that the controller matches the motor, like it does when you buy them together in a kit. Other causes are faulty hall sensors in the motor or brown MOSFETs in the controller, but those causes would be unusual in a new kit.

Well I did say it was correct but just to be clear it is plugged in with the arrows lined up and all the way to the line, there is no sign of broken or bent pins. As you say it is a kit so everything should match, I have not changed anything. If it is a connection problem then it must be a faulty cable and that is not very likely either.

 

[Nealh]

Faulty cable unlikely but a continuity check would soon rule it out. Other wise could be a faulty batch of controllers I haven't tried my kit controller as I'm using a dual voltage PSWPower KT.

 

[TJS109]

Hopefully I am on the way to a solution. The supplier is sending me a new controller. Will take a while I expect but may well sort the problem out

 

[TJS109]

Well it's taken a while but the new controller finally arrived and has cured the problem. I had to invoke the Ebay returns process to get any action and even than nothing much happened until there was a change of personnel at the other end. After that things started happening quickly.
I am quite pleased with the kit, I had to use a different PAS as I could not fit the one supplied.
It seems less powerful than my TSDZ2 on another bike and slower to startup but still OK. it is quite noisy and in addition to the whine there is a ticking sound that gets quite loud at times, only occurs under power.
I was cycling through a village when 3 kids on bikes offered to race me. I declined but they tried any way, I powered away into the distance with cries of " it's not fair he's got an electric bike" ringing in my ears so I guess everything is working fine