S-KU95 controller help

[Nealh]

No use jumping at buying more items until we get to the bottom of exactly what you have done or may have damaged !!! More haste less speed.

Pic doesn't help need a clear pic of controller disconnected and the wiring .

The kit you bought looks like the non led one with the three speed switch/throttle combo unit. I believe you may have shorted the 5 motor/ hall wires up in error if so then motor halls may also be smoked as the only 5 wire connector I can make out is the motor hall connector.


A pic of the disconnected controller please.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

I will take it all off and send pics tomorrow. I've gone back over exactly what I did and I've come to the realisation that at I had the black, blue , red and yellow of the lcd wires connected at one point, god only knows what I was thinking, in my defence my meds make it hard to think at times . Battery seems fine in that if I switch it on and press the test it shows full charge.

Also I cut the connector off , the 5 wires you see in the picture are the ones for the lcd which I connected together.
Could I have damaged more than my controller? I hope not

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

I'm completely wrong, it is the motor hall sensor, I cut the wires off that and then put them together , I'm terrified now that I've caused loads of damage.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

No use jumping at buying more items until we get to the bottom of exactly what you have done or may have damaged !!! More haste less speed.

Pic doesn't help need a clear pic of controller disconnected and the wiring .

The kit you bought looks like the non led one with the three speed switch/throttle combo unit. I believe you may have shorted the 5 motor/ hall wires up in error if so then motor halls may also be smoked as the only 5 wire connector I can make out is the motor hall connector.


A pic of the disconnected controller please.

Firstly thanks for your help with this, it is much appreciated.
Below is the pic of the unit, the wires on the tape were the motor hall sensor which I cut the connector off, at one point I had all these wires connected to each other and i put the battery on, thinking back there may have been a pop ( just to explain altho my actions are that of a moron it is that my meds effect my thinking and memory more and more as the day goes on). The only thing connected to the wheel when I powered up were the three main motor wires and there were just the brakes and the throttle connected to the control box.

 

[wheeliepete]

I think you have prob. damaged your controller by shorting the red and black wires on the hall sensor connector, but it may be worth reconnecting the halls, then shorting the red and blue wires on the black display plug and see if you have been very lucky. You won't have damaged the halls in your motor because they were not connected. PSW Power on Aliexpress is prob. your best bet for a new 20 Amp sine wave KT controller and LCD, which will be a good match for your Q128, but they seem to have none in stock at present.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

I think you have prob. damaged your controller by shorting the red and black wires on the hall sensor connector, but it may be worth reconnecting the halls, then shorting the red and blue wires on the black display plug and see if you have been very lucky. You won't have damaged the halls in your motor because they were not connected. PSW Power on Aliexpress is prob. your best bet for a new 20 Amp sine wave KT controller and LCD, which will be a good match for your Q128, but they seem to have none in stock at present.

Thanks for the reply and reassurance I haven't messed up anything but my controller, if need be I will order a replacement from bmsbattery. I have sent a few emails out to see how much someone would charge to do it for me because I'm worried about damaging the wheel or battery next time.

Also if I opened the controller would I be able to see any damage I've done

 

[Nealh]

Shorting the halls all together will have damaged the controller
The hub should still work as halls weren't connected now we know how you connected up.

NO wiring should randomly be shorted or connected.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

AFAICT this KU95 doesn't have a display at all, it appears to have a basic three speed/throttle switch.
Shorting the halls all together will have damaged the controller
The hub should still work as halls weren't connected now we know how you connected up.

NO wiring should randomly be shorted or connected.

I hadn't realised this would only be a three speed throttle, I think I need a better controller, an lcd and I guess a new throttle system . Would you be able to show me a suitable system I can order

 

[Nealh]

I hadn't realised this would only be a three speed throttle, I think I need a better controller, an lcd and I guess a new throttle system . Would you be able to show me a suitable system I can order

I'm wrong it's not a 3 speed which you have as you have KU95.

KU93 is 3sp switch.

 

[Nealh]

I think we need to start from scratch on this one Matt.

Being a wheel chair conversion the only means of propulsion is via throttle, either twist type or thumb type.

Having LCD or led is ideal for pas assist levels but of no use for your requirements, though to prevent wire short mishaps a led display plugged in will prevent any mishaps.

Lcd and led have 5 or 3 different assist levels this is only of use with a pedal assist function (pas) for speed or torque control.

Throttle only means often you will have full power though may be able to feather speed a little. By having a 3 speed switch as well you can get 3 speed settings so that the throttle doesn't give full speed, I'm not 100% sure of the 3 speeds given but think you get something like 50/75/100% of max speed with throttle depending on setting.

KU93 has the option of throttle, additional 3 speed switch and led. You would need to order a 3 sp sw with a KU93 if you wanted this option.

KU95 has no 3 speed switch option.

If you still wish to run without led option then it is only a blue to red wire short needed on the led connector.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

I think we need to start from scratch on this one Matt.

Being a wheel chair conversion the only means of propulsion is via throttle, either twist type or thumb type.

Having LCD or led is ideal for pas assist levels but of no use for your requirements, though to prevent wire short mishaps a led display plugged in will prevent any mishaps.

Lcd and led have 5 or 3 different assist levels this is only of use with a pedal assist function (pas) for speed or torque control.

Throttle only means often you will have full power though may be able to feather speed a little. By having a 3 speed switch as well you can get 3 speed settings so that the throttle doesn't give full speed, I'm not 100% sure of the 3 speeds given but think you get something like 50/75/100% of max speed with throttle depending on setting.

KU93 has the option of throttle, additional 3 speed switch and led. You would need to order a 3 sp sw with a KU93 if you wanted this option.

KU95 has no 3 speed switch option.

If you still wish to run without led option then it is only a blue to red wire short needed on the led connector.

So if I just ordered a new controller, connect the brakes, throttle, main power and the 3 motor wires and then short the led connectors or buy a led and connect it the whole thing should work.

Edit:
I now understand what I'm doing better, I will try this controller just in case it has somehow survived my ham fisted attempts at destroying it and if not I will order a replacement.

 

[Nealh]

I don't think your controller will work at all but if you wish to try insulate all the wires you bared and you will need to short the red and blue wire to each other on the led lead which is black 4 pin connector with 4 wires, green and black leave alone.

 

[Nealh]

So if I just ordered a new controller, connect the brakes, throttle, main power and the 3 motor wires and then short the led connectors or buy a led and connect it the whole thing should work.

Yes but also connect up the square hall sensor plug to the Q128 as well as it will run quieter. The kit should have a motor wire lead that connects to the hub motor and at the controller end it should have the 3 separate thick (motor) phase wires green, blue, yellow & a white square plug with the thinner hall wires inserted (red,black,green,blue,yellow & white if used for internal speed sensor.
If shorting only short blue and red on the led wire lead, far better to use an led as it also has the on./off button and speedometer on the 810 model and no faffing about shorting wires. The led you can position anywhere you like.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Yes but also connect up the square hall sensor plug to the Q128 as well as it will run quieter. The kit should have a motor wire lead that connects to the hub motor and at the controller end it should have the 3 separate thick (motor) phase wires green, blue, yellow & a white square plug with the thinner hall wires inserted (red,black,green,blue,yellow & white if used for interanal speed sensor.
If shorting only short blue and red on the led wire lead, far better to use an led as it also has the on./off button and speedometer on the 810 model and no faffing about shorting wires. The led you can position anywhere you like.

I've just tried my controller, wired properly this time and nothing worked so I obviously have destroyed it, I will order a new one with led and take it much slower this time.

 

[harrys]

No.

Short colour to colour, so wire 1 to 2 & 3 to 5.
1 & 2 are 5v+, red to Blue 3 & 5 are rx /tx comms, green to Yellow. Don't forget do it with no circuit power.
4 is Gnd so just leave it.

That's not 5 volts. It's battery power, either 36V or 48V nominal.. Connecting those two wires starts the controller. On my PSW contollers, those are also 1 & 2, and the vendor ships them with a jumper plug, 1-2 and 4-5.

 

[harrys]

Matthew, do you have a voltmeter? Before writing off the controller, check the red and black wires that you cut to see if there's 5V power for the Hall Sensors.

That means you have to be able to start the controller, and that requires connecting up the 810LED display. You will have to press the ON/OFF button on the 810LED to turn on the system. Maybe you forgot to do that. I sure did, on my first ebike kit which uses an 810LED.

After I connected the battery and flipped the switch on the battery, nothing happened. Then it occurred to me to press the power button, The bike came alive and has has not failed me yet in almost 1000 miles now.

The 810LED does not need 5v power. It runs off the battery. They also will work independent of the controller. All they need is battery and ground. I've powered them up on battery only, without controller.

The 5 volt supplies in these controllers can be surpisingly robust when short circuited. They don't need to supply much current so I think a current limiting resistor may be in place.

Good luck.

 

[Nealh]

That's not 5 volts. It's battery power, either 36V or 48V nominal..

Yes you are right displays needs to be able to read battery voltage.

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

Matthew, do you have a voltmeter? Before writing off the controller, check the red and black wires that you cut to see if there's 5V power for the Hall Sensors.

That means you have to be able to start the controller, and that requires connecting up the 810LED display. You will have to press the ON/OFF button on the 810LED to turn on the system. Maybe you forgot to do that. I sure did, on my first ebike kit which uses an 810LED.

After I connected the battery and flipped the switch on the battery, nothing happened. Then it occurred to me to press the power button, The bike came alive and has has not failed me yet in almost 1000 miles now.

The 810LED does not need 5v power. It runs off the battery. They also will work independent of the controller. All they need is battery and ground. I've powered them up on battery only, without controller.

The 5 volt supplies in these controllers can be surpisingly robust when short circuited. They don't need to supply much current so I think a current limiting resistor may be in place.

Good luck.

My system didn't come with led , I didn't realise at the time that I needed it, I've tried the controller fully connected with the blue/red shorted on the led connector but nothing happened, would that have switched the controller on or would I need to do something else
Also I have a volt meter but I don't know how to use it lol
Edit just realised that of course it would have turned it on, the whole point in shorting the red and blue is to bypass the switch

 

[harrys]

You need a easy volt meter lesson. Can you post a pic of the front panel or link to a image of it?

 

[Matthew Hutchinson]

You need a easy volt meter lesson. Can you post a pic of the front panel or link to a image of it?

You're not wrong but in this case I don't think will help, now I know what I'm doing I've wired up correctly and it doesn't work so I'm guessing nothing I did now is going to change the fact that my previous ham fisted attempts destroyed the controller.
I will be ordering a new controller tomorrow, this time with led and once I've got it connected I will be posting pic of the wiring before I attach the battery this time, I do know what I'm doing now I've had instruction but the worry of messing it up again will make me far more wary