Voodoo Zobob E

[soundwave]

i have hope 203 rotors front and back as the stock ones were just crap and thats on a 5k bike.

 

[peter.c]

My take on the zobop bbs02 is 500watts nominal almost double at peak power unrestricted no speed cut off The frame sus set up would take more power but the battery fit is the hold up the smiles per mile are

 

[ejstubbs]

Out of interest, does anyone know if the Wellgo "DMR clone" pedals are readily serviceable

To answer my own question: they seem to be a clone of the original version of the DMR V12. The Wellgo part number is LU-A52. They have a sealed bearing like the V12s. It's possible that the Wellgo K004 bearing replacement kit is intended as a service part for these pedals but it's by no means clear and Google doesn't reveal any useful guidance.

 

[ejstubbs]

Anyone know why there are two holes on the left hand side at the top of the downtube, but only one cable (the derailleur control cable) routed that way?

I did wonder whether it might be a hangover from the non-electric Zobop frame but on closer comparison the two frames are really quite different. The non-electric Zobop doesn't even have internal cable routing.

 

[soundwave]

dropper post ?

 

[ejstubbs]

The Zobop E comes with a dropper post, the cable is routed through top tube.

 

[ejstubbs]

Had the zobop e for about 3 weeks and have done 180 miles on it. Its a great bike however it emits a metallic rattle which appears to be coming from the motor around 16-18mph. Above or below that speed it’s fine. Halfords advised this is normal and the motor disengaging, does anyone else have this problem/noise

Mine does the same thing. I think Halfords are correct: it's the motor disengaging at 25kph. Or maybe swithering about whether to disengage or not. Anyway, I think it is more or less normal.

One thing I noticed yesterday is that there seems to be some kind of epicyclic gear between the pedals and the rather tiny chainwheel. On the 42 tooth sprocket, the rear wheel rotates only a bit less than one revolution for each full turn of the pedals. If the chainwheel was directly connected to the pedals, like on an ordinary bike, I'd have expected to see only about 1/3 to 1/4 of a revolution of the rear wheel for a full turn of the pedals with a chainwheel of that size.

I assume this is something to do with keeping the motor output shaft turning at a reasonable speed even when the pedals are being turned quite slowly. It may also be something to do with keeping the low-speed torque at a sensible level? (AIUI electric motors produce more torque the slower they turn.)

 

[ejstubbs]

One thing to be aware of, front brake no problem, rear brake you are going to have to take the calliper off so you can re route the hose through the frame and then re-bleed the brakes (very easy on Hope brakes) or you could do what I did, leave the original hose in place and fit the Hope lever and calliper to that, less hassle trying to re-route the hose as that can be a nightmare.

I see what you mean about the rear brake hose routing. I think you'd need some kind of microscopically-sized, highly trained ferret to get a new one threaded through the right way.

I assume that the M315 brakes fitted to the Zobop E as original equipment use Shimano's older, larger internal bore SM-BH59 hose (2.3mm vs 2.1mm for the newer SM-BH90). The older hose is also rated "standard rigidity" by Shimano, as opposed to "high power rigidity" for the newer, smaller-bore hose. I believe the Hope non-braided hose is 2.25mm ID so closer to the SM-BH59 internal diameter.

Did you leave the original olives & connector inserts in place on the OE rear brake hose? And did you use the Shimano connecting bolts to attach the hose to the Hope lever and caliper, or the Hope ones?

 

[Neil L]

Hi.. New member here. Been on the look out for an ebike for a while now, have tested several bikes/systems. Seen that Voodoo have just released there first ebikes I gave the Zobob a try.. Bosch CX drive, 500 battery, dropper post, 27.5+ tyres. £2700. Halfords had 20% of ebikes, combined with BC discount and cashback, I couldn't refuse and ended up paying about £1,850. Bike is now sat in my living room, fully charged, waiting for it's first trip out tomorrow... and I can't wait!!

As you we also own another Voodoo, my son has the Voodoo Zobop non electric and that's been a great bike on the trails for the last 18 months, I'd even say its better than my Boardman FS that cost reasonably more.
I use mine on Tour and Eco most of the time only switching to eMTB when I hit a hill that gets my puffing a bit, I think that's why I get the miles. Using it in the forest on eMTB I recon I get about 25 miles+ on it.
I have just took the plunge and added Slime to the tube, I heard that those tyres can be a Bas***d to get off the rims, so hopefully it will help with the punctures this year (tubes on the Voodoo are Presta valves, but with a removable core, so easy to get the slime in)
Loving it, yet to use it in anger, but now the weather is improving I hope to get out and throw down some hillsides

 

[Neil L]

Thanks David and Neal, that sounds encouraging. One of the assistants in Halfords yesterday did mention the 10% British Cycling discount, with a sort of a nudge and a wink and an "I didn't tell you this". When I got home and checked their web site, the Ts & Cs for the British Cycling discount were the same as for the AA one ie can't be used in conjunction with another offer. If they've accepted the British Cycling one against already discounted bikes then that gives me some confidence.

How does the British Cycling discount work? For the AA one you have to print off a voucher which carries the "cannot be used..." condition, albeit in very small print. For the British Cycling one do you just flash them a membership card?

The other question in my mind after yesterday's test ride is the size of bike I should go for. The one I rode was the 18". They handed it over with the dropper post as low as it would go in the seat tube, which was obviously too low after just a few yards of pedalling. I stopped and raised it - I think the 7cm mark was showing - and that felt just right for pedalling, if a teenzy bit precarious mounting and dismounting. However, the sitting position felt a little too upright. I'm thinking that, given the amount that I raised the seatpost on the 18", then the 20" should be spot on, and have a fraction more reach in the top tube. The thing is that, after being saddled with a Trek 6500 many years ago which, while bang on according to the charts, always felt a bit too on the big size for me, I tend to prefer to err towards the smaller frame size when facing a choice. Ho hum, still a few things to think about...

 

[DavidWylie]

I see what you mean about the rear brake hose routing. I think you'd need some kind of microscopically-sized, highly trained ferret to get a new one threaded through the right way.

I assume that the M315 brakes fitted to the Zobop E as original equipment use Shimano's older, larger internal bore SM-BH59 hose (2.3mm vs 2.1mm for the newer SM-BH90). The older hose is also rated "standard rigidity" by Shimano, as opposed to "high power rigidity" for the newer, smaller-bore hose. I believe the Hope non-braided hose is 2.25mm ID so closer to the SM-BH59 internal diameter.

Did you leave the original olives & connector inserts in place on the OE rear brake hose? And did you use the Shimano connecting bolts to attach the hose to the Hope lever and caliper, or the Hope ones?

Sorry for the delay in replying, just got back from my hols.. I used the standard hose from the M315 brakes but fitted new Hope olives and connectors and it has worked fine for some 850 miles so far.

 

[ejstubbs]

I used the standard hose from the M315 brakes but fitted new Hope olives and connectors and it has worked fine for some 850 miles so far.

Thanks for that info.

I can't justify the cost of something like the Hope brakes at the moment, so I'm planning a cheapskate upgrade: Shimano M6000 calipers (which are compatible with the BH59 hose fitted as original equipment to the Zobop E, provided you use the right connecting bolt) and some M506 levers which I plan to swap from another bike also fitted with BH59 hose. (The M315 levers from the Zobop will go on the 'donor' bike pro tem.) The M506 levers are two-finger sized and have the servo-wave cam so I'm expecting rather better initial response and, depending on pad choice, better modulation. I may be able to mount them a bit closer to the grips as well, which I think could help with access to some of the auxiliary controls (eg the dropper post lever).

The only new items involved will be the calipers (<£50 the pair) some hose hardware (new olives in addition to the BH59 connecting bolts for the calipers) and some mineral oil. I'm actually also going to fit a 203mm disc up front while I'm at it, but I'm not counting that as part of the upgrade. Even so, I've paid <£100 all in for the gubbins. Now to find the time to do it...

 

[DavidWylie]

Thanks for that info.

I can't justify the cost of something like the Hope brakes at the moment, so I'm planning a cheapskate upgrade: Shimano M6000 calipers (which are compatible with the BH59 hose fitted as original equipment to the Zobop E, provided you use the right connecting bolt) and some M506 levers which I plan to swap from another bike also fitted with BH59 hose. (The M315 levers from the Zobop will go on the 'donor' bike pro tem.) The M506 levers are two-finger sized and have the servo-wave cam so I'm expecting rather better initial response and, depending on pad choice, better modulation. I may be able to mount them a bit closer to the grips as well, which I think could help with access to some of the auxiliary controls (eg the dropper post lever).

The only new items involved will be the calipers (<£50 the pair) some hose hardware (new olives in addition to the BH59 connecting bolts for the calipers) and some mineral oil. I'm actually also going to fit a 203mm disc up front while I'm at it, but I'm not counting that as part of the upgrade. Even so, I've paid <£100 all in for the gubbins. Now to find the time to do it...

Im sure they will be a vast improvement on the OEM brakes.

 

[ejstubbs]

David, can I ask about fitting the caliper to the in-situ rear brake hose? Since I've bought calipers on their own, they have no brake fluid in them. I'm assuming that there will be minimal leakage of brake fluid from the caliper end of the hose so long as the lever bleed port is shut.

The Shimano installation instructions tell you to fill the system from the caliper upwards. This sounds to me as if I'd be pushing a large air bubble through the brake hose and up to the lever, which would seem to make the subsequent full bleed more likely to be long-winded and difficult.

It sounds as if it might be better to drain down the lever and hose completely when the old caliper is off, and refill the system from the caliper as per the Shimano instructions. But that does sound as if it could require quite a lot of brake fluid!

How much brake fluid is in a typical MTB hydraulic brake system anyway? (I have 150ml in stock just now.)

 

[DavidWylie]

David, can I ask about fitting the caliper to the in-situ rear brake hose? Since I've bought calipers on their own, they have no brake fluid in them. I'm assuming that there will be minimal leakage of brake fluid from the caliper end of the hose so long as the lever bleed port is shut.

The Shimano installation instructions tell you to fill the system from the caliper upwards. This sounds to me as if I'd be pushing a large air bubble through the brake hose and up to the lever, which would seem to make the subsequent full bleed more likely to be long-winded and difficult.

It sounds as if it might be better to drain down the lever and hose completely when the old caliper is off, and refill the system from the caliper as per the Shimano instructions. But that does sound as if it could require quite a lot of brake fluid!

How much brake fluid is in a typical MTB hydraulic brake system anyway? (I have 150ml in stock just now.)

Once you have fitted the new calliper you have to bleed the system, even the smallest bit of air in the system is a NO NO ! .. The Shimano brakes usually bleed from the calliper, if you dont have a Shimano bleed kit, a syringe with a bit of pipe the fits over the bleed nipple works (Mother in law diabetic, I have a ready supply of syringes ) .. remove the little bleed cap from the lever and push fluid through until no more bubbles come out of the hole on the lever .. allowing for the waste that drips all over the floor as you push through new fluid, i'd say a whole rear brake system takes no more than a egg cup or two of fluid to fill, push plenty through and let it flow to make sure all air has been removed.

 

[DavidWylie]

Once you have fitted the new calliper you have to bleed the system, even the smallest bit of air in the system is a NO NO ! .. The Shimano brakes usually bleed from the calliper, if you dont have a Shimano bleed kit, a syringe with a bit of pipe the fits over the bleed nipple works (Mother in law diabetic, I have a ready supply of syringes ) .. remove the little bleed cap from the lever and push fluid through until no more bubbles come out of the hole on the lever .. allowing for the waste that drips all over the floor as you push through new fluid, i'd say a whole rear brake system takes no more than a egg cup or two of fluid to fill, push plenty through and let it flow to make sure all air has been removed.

Its very easy to do, no need to have any worries, just a little messy without proper bleed kit .. Remember Shimano uses mineral oil as brake fluid, I had to flush my hose as Hope use standard Dot 5 that we have in our cars.

 

[ejstubbs]

Phase 1 complete: brake levers swapped between bikes. No obvious sponginess noticed on either bike subsequent to the operation so no immediate need to bleed either just yet. The M506 levers seem to have spiced up the response and modulation of the Zobop braking already

Next step: fit the M6000 calipers and the 203mm front disc. Hopefully tomorrow.

 

[ejstubbs]

Phase 2 complete: front disc rotor upgraded to 203mm and M6000 caliper fitted. Bleeding was more straightforward than I expected. A bit surprised at the yellow brake fluid that came out of the level bleed port, compared to the jolly pink Shimano stuff. Made sure that that the yellow stuff was all removed and discarded. Lever felt as if it was coming back a bit close to the bar to begin with but it seemed to firm up nicely during the short shakedown run I gave it round the local streets to start getting the pads bedded in; was biting nicely after a couple of km. Might make time at some point to give it another precautionary bleed just to be sure but for now it's working just fine.

Rear brake next on the list. Only the caliper to do for that one; must make very sure I don't get any brake fluid on the rotor in the process.

 

[ejstubbs]

Rear brake done at the weekend, and front brake bled again for good measure. I adjusted the cockpit a bit as well: I had the levers pointing too far down, and too close to the grips. 16km test run confirmed the joys of single-finger braking, although there is a bit of shudder from the front when braking hard - might need to check the headset adjustment.

 

[ejstubbs]

More highly satisfactory slowing down this weekend just gone

Have also acquired a used set of M615 brakes from eBay. Those have basically the same levers as the ones I swiped off my hardtail (bar having alloy master cylinder covers vs plastic) so I can put the robbed ones back on the hardtail. The rear caliper is leaking but I didn't buy them for the calipers anyway - the whole set was still cheaper than buying new levers. Extra plus point, they have BH90 hoses. The front one is too short for the Zobop but, as I won't be replacing the rear one (due to being too scared to even contemplate threading a new cable through the frame), I can cut the rear hose and use that to replace the BH59 currently on the front. Just need a couple of new BH90 inserts for the cut hose. Should make the front brake just that wee bit more bitey, or so the theory goes.

I sometimes think I enjoy fettling/fiddling with bikes more than riding them. Then I go for a ride and realise what a stupid thought that is...