Woosh Zephyr-B review

[Hutch]

Again one question please: the crank seems to be higher than on city bikes, because it is made to go over obstacles.

So in order to expand your legs comfortably, you have to set the saddle higher. Which makes it even more difficult to touch the ground.

Do you feel it is unpleasant while pedaling? Don't your knees come up too high near your arms or chest if you try to keep the saddle low?

That crank-saddle distance issue is something I've noticed with another full suspension bike I've tested in a shop recently.

 

[Hubear]

I have no issues with pedalling at the lowest seat profile at all. But mind you, I do have short legs at 5'5. The highest point of my leg is around 90 degrees to my body if I sit upright. That to me is acceptable.

It doesn't go near my arms because if the higher handle bars =)

 

[Hubear]

2 week update - 120 miles ridden:

I am extremely happy with it. The bike just works, and is very solid. As a commuter, having higher profile handlebars was more comfortable as I don't have to lean so much. I have also since gotten used to the size of the bike. I ride in high cycling traffic roads and the bigger frame has actually helped me get around easier, people tend to give way more often as opposed to those on smaller bromptons where people try to overtake or zip around as often as possible.

I got in a situation a few days ago where a pedestrian didn't look before crossing the road a few meters away from me. I'm pretty sure I was going 12-15mph before I slammed the back brakes. The bike skidded maybe a little under a meter and stopped right in front of her. I didn't get thrown off nor tipped over, it was a very lucky situation. - But now I know, the brakes on this bike is quite impressive.

I don't ever change the gear from 7, so I haven't tested that side of things. The suspension system is great, since its front and back. I ride through a lot of ramps and speed bumps, so I'm grateful of having better suspension. I rode on my wife's bike via the same route and shaking was a lot worse compared to the Zephyr-B.

So what don't I like about it... One of the screws on the rear mud guard fell off, and so I need to get that replaced. Not sure if this sort of stuff is expected to happen. Its really only held on with 2 screws.

The king meter's battery indicator also fluctuates very wildly. It can literally go from 3/4 to 1/4 and then back to 3/4. I believe trex has explained that this is normal with ebikes. Not too big of an issue, as I generally remember I need to charge the batteries every 2-3 days. The battery range is pretty accurate. I haven't fully tested it from full charge till full drainage, but I can definitely feel less pull from the bike on the third day.

Overall, I give the bike 2 thumbs up. - Its a big bike with lots nice features. You'll get used to it in a few weeks.

 

[anotherkiwi]

So what don't I like about it... One of the screws on the rear mud guard fell off, and so I need to get that replaced. Not sure if this sort of stuff is expected to happen. Its really only held on with 2 screws.

You should check all screws on a new bike after a few 10s of km/miles it is perfectly normal for them to work loose from new.

 

[acm2000]

battery level on most of these things is determined by voltage, which is not a very accurate way of checking and means it will fluctuate all over the place when the motor is under more load.

 

[Hutch]

Hi, I've got the Zephyr-B for about 3 months and I love it. I was going to write a review about it soon.

But for now I have to bleed the Zoom hydraulic brakes.

I've searched for a manual but I can't find anything on the web/Youtube or on Woosh support page.

I've watched several videos about bleeding hydraulic brakes from other brands, but it seems that some kits are specific to a brand.

Moreover there isn't any model reference on the brakes besides the brand (Zoom) and the type of oil (Mineral Oil) .

Do I need a kit with 1 or 2 syringes? What compatible brand should I look for Shimano, Avid, ...?

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You don't need a syringe. You only need one for brakes that don't have a cover over the resevoir. Do it just like you do on a motorbike. You have to position the bike in such a position that the brake resevoir is horizontal, which means leaning the bike against something with the handlebars at the right angle. You might need to loosen the scre that holds the brake lever tight on the handlebars so that you can rotate it round temporarily. Then all you need is a jamjar and a piece of plastic pipe like they use in fish tanks.

• Put some brake fluid in the jamjar.
• Attach the pipe to the bleed nipple and stick the other end in the jamjar so that it's below the surface. It's important that the pipe is a tight fit on the nipple to stop air getting in there.
• Take the cover off the resevoir.
• Loosen the bleed nipple a little so that the fluid comes out when you pull the brake.
• Pump the brake to force the fluid and air into the jamjar, but watch the level in the resevoir. Keep it topped up so that you don't pump any air.
• When no more air comes out, tighten the nipple.
• Check that the lever is now firm when you aplly the brake.
• Put the cover back on the resevoir.
• That's it

Some hydraulic brakes will let in air if you turn the bike upside-down. You can avoid that by holding on the levers with a few rubber bands during the inversion. Unfortunately, you can't take the wheel off like that because it'll grip the brake.

 

[Hutch]

Wow, thank you d8veh for your fast answer. That's a real manual.

Indeed there is a cover over the reservoir so I'll apply your method.

In fact there is an oil leak on the junction between the lever frame and the oil pipe (sorry if the words aren't the right ones, I'm translating from my language and I don't know all technical words in english yet).

That part seemed weak and a bit greasy from the beginning, and 2 weeks ago the bike felt on the ground... on that brake lever. So it started to slowly leak more and 3 days ago, there was almost no break power. I could pull the lever almost to the maximum.

So I suppose I don't really need a bleed (because the remaining oil is still probably clean) but first I need to fix the leak, and then ADD some new oil.

To fix the leak, I planned to use something like that:
https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-pneumatichydraulic-sealant/

Although I have to find a similar product in my country.

Would you do it another way?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

In that case don't bother trying to fix it. You can't seal it with sealant. A complete brake (lever, hose and caliper ready to fit) is only £25 from Ebay or less. By the time you've bought the fluid and sealant, the cost will be nearly the same. Have a word with Woosh. They may be even cheaper.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZOOM-M875-Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-For-Mountain-Bike-MTB-Cycling-Front-Rear-rotors-/291685407763?var=&hash=item43e9ce1c13:m:mHkuHD62kWJZjeLwOLdioBw

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RED-Right-ZOOM-M870-MTB-Road-Bike-Bicycle-Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-Front-rotors-/302045399234?hash=item46534f08c2:g:A5EAAOSwOVpXesFm

You don't even need to fit the same type of brake. You can probably get a better used one for less money. Any post-mount one (screws from the top, not the side) will fit. Just check that the hose is long enough. Examples:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Avid-Elixir-5-Hydraulic-Brakes-/191946842427?hash=item2cb0ec613b:g:XMwAAOSwgZ1Xsi3f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/shimano-hydraulic-brakes-/232050226855?hash=item36074576a7:g:aWMAAOSw6n5XstkI

 

[gray198]

In that case don't bother trying to fix it. You can't seal it with sealant. A complete brake (lever, hose and caliper ready to fit) is only £25 from Ebay or less. By the time you've bought the fluid and sealant, the cost will be nearly the same. Have a word with Woosh. They may be even cheaper.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZOOM-M875-Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-For-Mountain-Bike-MTB-Cycling-Front-Rear-rotors-/291685407763?var=&hash=item43e9ce1c13:m:mHkuHD62kWJZjeLwOLdioBw

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RED-Right-ZOOM-M870-MTB-Road-Bike-Bicycle-Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-Front-rotors-/302045399234?hash=item46534f08c2:g:A5EAAOSwOVpXesFm

You don't even need to fit the same type of brake. You can probably get a better used one for less money. Any post-mount one (screws from the top, not the side) will fit. Just check that the hose is long enough. Examples:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Avid-Elixir-5-Hydraulic-Brakes-/191946842427?hash=item2cb0ec613b:g:XMwAAOSwgZ1Xsi3f
D8v
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/shimano-hydraulic-brakes-/232050226855?hash=item36074576a7:g:aWMAAOSw6n5XstkI

D8veh you truly are a mine of useful information and valuable advice. It sure is good to see you back here

regards gray

 

[Hutch]

OK thanks for the idea.

If I change the brake I'll try maybe antoher brand to get a quality upgrade even if it's a bit more expensive.

But why isn't it possible to repair it? I haven't tried to unmount the leaking joint yet so I don't know how it looks like inside. I thought it is a kind of screw with a rubber joint or somehting like that.

If I buy a more expensive brake, and if I get the same problem, will I have to change it again or is it possible to repair higher quality brakes?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

They don't normally leak. There's probably an olive on the end of the hose that's held tight by a sleeve nut. You could try tightening the nut, but if it got worse when the bike fell over, something is probably cracked.

 

[trex]

Hi, I've got the Zephyr-B for about 3 months and I love it. I was going to write a review about it soon.

But for now I have to bleed the Zoom hydraulic brakes.

I've searched for a manual but I can't find anything on the web/Youtube or on Woosh support page.

I've watched several videos about bleeding hydraulic brakes from other brands, but it seems that some kits are specific to a brand.

Moreover there isn't any model reference on the brakes besides the brand (Zoom) and the type of oil (Mineral Oil) .

Do I need a kit with 1 or 2 syringes? What compatible brand should I look for Shimano, Avid, ...?

Thanks.

if you by a zoom xtech bleed kit, it'll come with 2 syringes but in practice, you only need one syinge and some mineral oil, using d8veh method. It's quick and easy. If the hose is damaged, it's difficult to replace the hose yourself, the part is standard, a good bike shop should have the tools to do this for you for about £25. If you do this for the first time, email woosh support some pictures for advice.

 

[Hutch]

OK thank you d8veh and trex.

I'll repair that in a few days. First I'm ordering a few tools and a kit just to get more repairing / bleeding options.

I'll try to fix the leak. As the brake is damaged anyway, it can't get worse. That way I'll learn how it's made.

And if I can't get it to work again, I'll buy a new one.

 

[trex]

Here is the link to the information you need.

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/how-to-bleed-your-zoom-hydraulic-brakes.html

 

[Hutch]

Thanks for the howto, I couldn't find that one on the website.

Is there a specific syringe for that model? I've seen most brands have their own kit. Or should I just adapt the top of a syringe to fit the reservoir top up port?

What do you think about that "burping" method without a syringe?

Would it work?

 

[trex]

that method is not foolproof. the reservoir feeds the mineral oil to the piston through a small hole. When you release the lever, the suction causes a small whirl above the feed hole, the swirl may suck in a little bit of air. I have seen this many times.
This what I do to bleed a Zoom, in just 3 minutes, quicker than typing this post.
Release the 5mm allen bolt, turn the brake lever horizontal.
put about 5cc of mineral oil into a 20cc syringe, move the plunger up to make sure there is just oil, no air inside the syringe.
Open the top up port with a star screwdriver, push the syringe into the top up port, screw the syringe into the port hole a couple of turn so I can leave the syringe snugly fit to the reservoir. Hands free.
Locate the bleed port, open it 1 turn while gently squeezing the brake lever. Continue opening the bleed port until you can see/hear the oil/air hissing. Stop opening the bleed port but continue to squeeze the lever to chase the oil out.
Close the bleed port, you don't want admitting air back in.
Slowly release the brake leaver. The oil from the syringe will feed through the top up port and fill the reservoir. Slowly squeeze the brake lever again. You should feel an immediate difference. The brake is useable right away, but you will need to repeat opening the bleed port, let the oil out, close the bleed port, release the lever a second or third time to be sure that no air is left in the circuit.
Remove the syringe and close the top up port.

there is enough oil in this kit to bleed about 50 times:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-Disc-Brake-Bleed-Kit-with-Funnel-50ml-Genuine-Mineral-Oil-Deore-XT-XTR-/281156039761

 

[Hutch]

Thanks Trex for the details. I'll try to order that kit if they send abroad. If they don't, do you mean that most Shimano compatible syringe fit the Zoom top up port?

Can I use a funnel instad of syringe? If there is enough oil in the funnel, would some air enter the system?

When I squeeze the brake while the bleed port is open, do I need a kind of attachment strap to maintain the brake squeezed before closing the bleed port? I've seen that on some videos. Or should I do that with both hands simultaneously? Isn't it a bit tricky?

I've used a strong grip to tighten the nut between the hose and the brake lever. It seems to work. No more leaking until now. So it makes sense to add some new oil. And I'll see in a few weeks weither the junction is still dry or not.

 

[trex]

any Shimano hydraulic bleed kit will do, the zoom disk brakes are very similar to the early shimano hydraulic brakes. search ebay in your country for shimano brakes bleed kit, you only need the red mineral oil and a syringe to be honest, it may even be cheaper to buy separately. I bought the kit because of convenience and I did not have to pay for it myself. open the top up port to give yourself a good idea what syringe would fit. I use both hands, one for the lever, the other for the screwdriver. After you fit the syringe, the air can't get in, you don't need to keep the brake lever perfectly horizontal any more.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

One last point, that reminded me when we turned a bike upside-down a couple of days ago, which let air into the pipe. We didn't bleed it to get it out. Instead, we took the brake, hose and caliper off and hung it vertical for a few minutes with the caliper at the bottom and the lever at the top. The air goes up-hill, so ended up back in the reservoir, where it came from, leaving the brake working perfectly. Try that first. Twizzling it around a bit to make sure all the air gets a chance to go up the pipe would help.