XIONGDA 48V 2 SPEED BUILD

[SPYDER]

So, for better or worse, I am embarking on my first e-bike conversion. Xiongda 48V 2 speed.
Frame is a KINESIS MAXLIGHT. First job was to spread the rear dropouts to accommodate the wider axle of the Xiongda. This was easily achieved with a scissor jack between the dropouts and wooden wedges halfway along the chain stays. No drama. I've ordered a 7 speed freewheel from d8veh. Once fitted I can establish the hub position which will allow me to measure up and order some spokes. 14g 2mm. I can then lace the hub into a Mavic EH321 rim using a 2 cross pattern.
The bike at present runs a ISIS type bottom bracket. There is precious little room at either side to fit the PAS magnet wheel. One easy solution would be to remove the (seldom used) granny ring to create some space to fit the PAS on the crank side. I'm thinking that with the climbing assistance given by the motor that the granny ring might be redundant anyway. What do people think?
I'll take some pics along the way.
Geoff

 

[Nealh]

Sounds good, the granny ring isn't needed unless you wish to climb a vertical hill. With the small dia of the Xiongda you may be able to use a 3x.

 

[SPYDER]

So the granny ring is off making room for the PAS on the crank side. The magnet wheel has direction arrows on it. I tested the little magnets with another magnet and found them all to be the the same way round, polarity wise. So I'm going to put it on the wrong way round so the same poles face the sensor as would have done with conventional mounting.
The freewheel has arrived allowing me to measure up for and order some spokes. It will have to be a 2 cross pattern as a 3 cross gives too much of an angle at the rim end. On advice from d8veh I spread the dropouts a little more than strictly necessary. The hub is then pushed over to the crank side as close as the sprocket will allow and a small spacer fitted to the other. This makes the spoke flanges more central, requiring less unwanted "dish" to the wheel.
I had ordered both twist and thumb type throttles. Unfortunately both have a bulbous housing at the inner end which fouls the thumb gear shifters. So I'm looking for a smaller diameter one. Twistgrip type.
Whilst we're on the subject of handlebars they are going to be quite cluttered aren't they. I can't use the cut-off brake levers so I'll fit a kill switch. If I can find space!
I think some long-ish bar ends will be needed too, so that I can flip the bike over for the inevitable puncture repair without destroying the LCD display.

 

[Nealh]

The bar end idea is a very good one.

 

[SPYDER]

I did a quick trial build of the rear disc. The threaded holes in the hub are very shallow. Just over 5mm of thread. First attempt.. the disc was wobbling. Mmmmm.
Brand new disc. New bolts carefully cut to length. What could be wrong?
Well, there is a small radius on the hub that fouls the inner mating edge of the disc. Six small chamfers later and all is well.
I've laced the hub into the new rim together with tube and new tyre.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus. So hopefully no rear punctures.
The PAS sensor is fitted where the granny ring would have been. I have refitted the crank and tried all the gears. Chain alignment seems OK. New shifters are on order. New chain too.
It's not easy to see on the pics but I have fitted the torque arm inboard of the dropout where it doubles up as a spacer.
I'm now measuring up for battery space in the triangle. I'm thinking of a 14.5ah one from Insat International. If it will fit. I'll get some dims from them.
It's coming along nicely.

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[SPYDER]

Iv'e just finished (almost) the wiring loom and swapped the Hayes brakes for some Avid Elixirs I had lying around. I tried a few different switchgear layouts and arrived at what you see. It includes a Kill switch in lieu of brake lever switches.
I've ordered a 13.6ah power pack from Insat International. It should arrive on Thursday.
So far, so good...

 

[SPYDER]

Battery arrived, charged and fitted. Its supply cables are super thick compared to the ones on the controller. Initial impressions are good.
I have left the gearshift on AUTO for the time being.
PAS is virtually immediate and powerful, even at level two. Level three PAS is very sprightly and might be too much if manoeuvering.
Gear change occurs at around 8mph and is smooth, taking about a second.
Speed readout on the display is accurate enough, within 1 mph of my GPS.
Assistance stops at 16 mph or so, despite the maximum setting in the display being higher. Thumb throttle gives a similar speed. I've only done a few miles so far. I'll give it a lengthier run tomorrow if possible.

 

[greggster]

Looks like a really tidy install [emoji106]

 

[SPYDER]

Thanks for that. I like to see a nice tidy wiring loom. All the sheathing and heatshrink is sourced from VEHICLE WIRING PRODUCTS.
You should see the fuel injection install on my kit car!

 

[Nicsee]

Iv'e just finished (almost) the wiring loom and swapped the Hayes brakes for some Avid Elixirs I had lying around. I tried a few different switchgear layouts and arrived at what you see. It includes a Kill switch in lieu of brake lever switches.
I've ordered a 13.6ah power pack from Insat International. It should arrive on Thursday.
So far, so good...

Very tidy - I hope my effort will come close.
I was also looking at getting my battery from Insat. Are you happy with yours?
I want a 48V 13.6Ah in a Dolphin case, but they said they could only do 11.6 as it will only take 52 cells in a 13S4P arrangement. What capacity did you go for?
Regards, Nick

 

[SPYDER]

Hi Nick. Mine is a 13s4p but using PANASONIC cells giving 13.6ah, not the SAMSUNG ones which give 11.6.
I've not flattened it yet from the first charge so I can't say much.
The connector cables are certainly hefty.
Geoff

 

[Nicsee]

Geoff, Thanks for your prompt response. 13.6Ah would be a good compromise. Do you have a product code or contact name at Insat. Their web site is a bit sketchy and lacks any technical details on the battery cases and how they are mounted. The Dolphin case is quite common and should be easy to fit. It looks like they are using top quality cells too.
Nick

 

[SPYDER]

Hi Nick. Contact at Insat was Jimmy. Tell him you would like the same battery that Mr. Lee had last week!
Panasonic NCR18650B cells.
He'll probably ask you how long the supply leads need to be.
I received a printout graph showing the discharge curve of my battery.
Capacity is quoted as 13.51Ah
Energy 627.23Wh

I should have mentioned before...
the conversion kit was sourced from Panda Ebikes.


Geoff

 

[Nicsee]

Geoff thanks for the info. I'll contact Jimmy and mention your name and the Panasonic cells. I assume it came with the charger and guess it should be straightforward to fit. Does it come with connectors for connecting the motor?
I don't have the motor yet as most places don't seem to have stock, but I'm planning to use a Bafang BBS02 mid drive to cope with the hills here in Devon.
Nick

 

[SPYDER]

Yes, it came with a charger. If you know what connectors your controller requires Jimmy can fit them.

 

[GrantW]

I also recently bought my kit from panda and have the same top speed issue (top speed of 26kmh/16mph unloaded) as yourself. He is getting in touch with Xiongda to try and get to the bottom of it - it's probably worth dropping Ollie an email to confirm another case if it's something you are concerned about. I did point him in the direction of this thread also.

 

[SPYDER]

Hi Grant. I just emailed them asking what the max RPM of my wheel should be.

 

[Nealh]

D8veh quoted his top speed @36v was 19mph and 21/22c@48v for Xiongda however he got his kit direct from China so more than likely asked for a specific winding/rpm rating, its probable that the Panda ones have a low windind /rpm rating.

 

[GrantW]

Quite possibly Neal - Panda were told the windings should do 32kph though. I'm waiting to hear back from them atm.

 

[GrantW]

It turns out the windings for at least mine were set for a top speed for 25km/h on a 26" rim.