Yose power kits back in stock.

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
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Having covered 500+ miles in the last few months on my old Raleigh fitted with a Cyclotricity kit, I thought I might have regained enough fitness to get back on my (expensive) unpowered Trek roadbike.
A couple of weeks ago I ventured out on it, I got a couple of miles (all uphill) before saying 'Sod that', I'd forgotten how hard it is. I've realised I'll probably never use it as it is, ever again, so I started looking for a suitable kit.

The Raleigh is 40 years old, a bit outdated and it's a heavy B, have problems keeping up with my mates on the flat and slight gradients.

Yesterday the correct kit to come into stock on the Yose Power site, after waiting quite a while. So there is one winging it's way to me as I write. If everything goes to plan I'll end up with a modern, fast and light electrified Trek roadbike.

I'll keep you updated on progress.

Pete.
 
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chris_n

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 29, 2016
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Good luck, thinking of doing similar to my carbon Cannondale Synapse roadbike. Just a little concerned about the weight of the Yosepower kit.
 

lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Hi Pete,

As a newbie to the world of electric bikes I just wondered which kit you have ordered as I am looking for a kit to fit to a Carrera Subway 2 which has hydraulic discs.

Cheers
Alan
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
151
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72
west Wales
Just a little concerned about the weight of the Yosepower kit
Thought about a Xiongda YW06 but freewheel only, not available for cassette.
Just about any kit is going to add 4 or 5 kilos with a half decent battery.

which kit you have ordered
350W rear 700c cassette ( in black to match the front hub).
https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Hub-Motor-36V350W-28"(700C)-Rear-Motor-with-Cassette-Bicycle-E-Bike-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Black-DIY-E-bike-LCD-Display-129.html
Throttle only is planned for the moment, so I will need some sort of brake switch for the STI levers.
The PAS won't fit the octalink crank so I'm hoping to fit the PAS and display to the Raleigh (which is throttle only at the moment), along with wider tyres, that will serve as a more sedate tourer.
Don't know if it will all work as planned, but I do enjoy tinkering, I suspect there will be plenty of that.

Pete.
 
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lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
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Staffordshire
Looks a great kit and I would need a battery to go with it, just wondering what range the the 16Ah battery would give over the 14.5Ah as there is quite a difference in price. Did you order direct from Germany?

Cheers
Alan
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
151
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72
west Wales
Looks a great kit and I would need a battery to go with it, just wondering what range the the 16Ah battery would give over the 14.5Ah as there is quite a difference in price. Did you order direct from Germany?
It depends on your needs, the 11Ah battery fitted to the Raleigh is good for 40+ miles with 3000ft of climbing, or 50 miles with 2000ft of climbing, usually enough for a Sunday morning ride out.
I have a little range anxiety simply because it's difficult hauling a heavy bike up a mountain, a lighter bike will alleviate this.
I would go with the smallest/lightest battery you can get away with, unless you have a physical disability you can still pedal home!.
The kit was ordered direct from the link in my post, they charged an extra couple of quid for 'payment commission'?, and twelve quid or so for delivery. Not a lot different from the price on Ebay.
 
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lyme

Pedelecer
Jun 20, 2018
93
33
Staffordshire
Thanks for the info. and they have a kit in stock with a 14.5Ah battery. Pedalling is not a problem as I usually cycle around 150 miles a week with a local club.
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
151
33
72
west Wales
Sorry about the double posting, I hijacked Trykers thread by mistake, it's a sign of impending old age.

My Yose power kit arrived this morning, the motor wheel was installed into a 130mm dropout without any issues, it almost fell in after removing a spacer that was installed behind the cassette on the old wheel.

Here's hoping the photos will work this time :-


Not much clearance, but adequate. All the gears select smoothly without adjustment.


Torque washers installed on outside will need a blob of weld and a little work with a file to ensure a snug fit.


Wheel needs a to be dished a couple of mil to centralize.

Going back to my original question regarding the use of the LCD3 on a Cyclotricity front wheel kit, I can confirm that it seems to work fine. I haven't changed any parameters or taken it for a run yet, but everything seemed to just plug and play.

From here on I'm going to need a little help, or at least reassurance.

As I said earlier, the plan was to use the new kit as throttle only, and use the LCD and PAS on the other bike, I'll try to explain the issues which I think are due to the different controllers.



This is the Cyclotricity controller which has a Speed set: 1-4.2v.
This works on throttle only, if the little blanking plug is fitted instead of a display. The plug bridges contacts 1 and 5, also 3 and 4.



The Yose power controller has Speed set: Hall Sensor and doesn't work with throttle only, if I use the blanking plug.



I suppose I could swap the controllers from one bike to another as they are close in maximum amperage, but that would involve extra work with cable lengths and different battery connectors.
Can anyone suggest another workaround, in order to get throttle only on the Hall sensor controller?

Pete.

#15 Hightechpete, Today at 3:24 PM
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egroover

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 12, 2016
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Hi Pete, looking forward to your reviews. I'm looking to get the 36v 14.5ah kit (26" rear wheel) that's currently out of stoclk (I've emailed them to find out when it's back in) - https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Hub-Motor-36V350W-Black-Hub-Motor-with-Cassettle-for-Rear-Wheel-26"-&-HL1-36V14.5Ah-Battery-Conversion-Kit-DIY-E-bike-110.html
to fit on my old GT mountain bike.
Do you think for light off road trails and commuting, the 36v kit would be better than the 48v kit ? Which one is more suited to off road or fast commutes ? Sorry for the questions, never done a conversion before
Cheers
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
151
33
72
west Wales
egroover, I'm relatively new to the ebike scene but learning fast.
I'm sticking with 36v as I don't need the extra performance of a 48v system.
If you get a complete 48v system, then it's no problem, but if you mix and match you have to ensure the controller is up to the job in terms of capacitor and amperage rating. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will chip in.
I know Nealh recommends 48v systems, you'll find a wealth of information if you search his posts.
Pete.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Not many hub kits are 48v, Woosh are starting to sell the odd version and Yose were selling one.
If building a kit then it makes sense to go with KT dual voltage controllers which handle 36 or 48v.

The main advantages of 48v is 25% more torque/acceleration and also the extra wh a battery can give, so more range. If you derestrict then also up to 25% more speed is achievable.
48v/13.6ah battery gives more wh then a 36v/14.5ah one, 652wh vs 522wh respectively.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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With 36v controllers some can take 48v if they have 63v main in rush capacitor, however the controllers will have low LVC cut off so not effective. You then rely totally on the battery bms to cut out which isn't a problem as most are set a bit higher then controllers any way.
If you use a KT lcd3 or higher they have voltage read out to monitor voltage discharge, other wise you need to wire in a watt meter or simple volt meter for battery monitoring.
 

Woosh

Trade Member
May 19, 2012
19,476
16,423
Southend on Sea
wooshbikes.co.uk
Not many hub kits are 48v, Woosh are starting to sell the odd version and Yose were selling one.
If building a kit then it makes sense to go with KT dual voltage controllers which handle 36 or 48v.

The main advantages of 48v is 25% more torque/acceleration and also the extra wh a battery can give, so more range. If you derestrict then also up to 25% more speed is achievable.
If you use a 48V/36V KT switchable controller, you get 33% more power but that extra power is prioritised to speed, less in torque.
If you use the Woosh SWX02 48V kit, the motor (winding code 16) keeps the same maximum speed as with the SWX02 36V (winding code 13), all the 33% extra power goes to torque. If you need torque, the Woosh kit is better.
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
151
33
72
west Wales
I don't know if the question is directed at me or Woosh.
Tony of Woosh is far more qualified to answer, but AFAIK if the max speed is set 15.5 mph on the display then it's legal isn't it?.
The throttle question is totally confusing to me, I'll continue to use mine until the definitive ruling is understood.
 

quackstar84

Pedelecer
Mar 6, 2014
230
16
40
Hello Pete. Seems to be a good amount of information here;

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/electric-bike-guides/uk-electric-bike-law/

It states this about the throttle;

"Throttle control

‘Twist and gos’ – electric bikes manufactured with the capability of being powered by a throttle alone – will require type approval from January 2016. It is considered likely that larger manufacturers will type approve ‘’twist and gos’ before retailing. Where the power of ‘twist and gos’ cuts out at 15.5mph, they will not be considered motor vehicles in the eyes of the law and will not therefore require registration, tax, insurance and rider licensing. The new law will NOT be backdated so any bikes bought prior to January 2016 will not be affected as ‘grandfather rights’ apply. (This is entirely separate to ‘walk assist mode’ throttles that power the bike to a 6kmh top limit i.e. walking speed, to help you push the bike along, which are not affected by this law update.)"

I like the throttle on my 1000watt just to give me a kick start =)

Thanks for your comment.