yose power watt meter stats

[Jammyb]

Hi All, I've recently added some solder to the shunt on my yose power rear kit with integrated KT36ZWSR controller. Yesterday I bought a G.T Power Watt meter and fitted it temporarily to see what kind of amp increase I had.

Though i'd attach my picks of the stats here in case anyone was interested and to ask opinion on if I've gone to far with the shunt mod? If I'm asking a bit to much from my battery I assume I could adjust the current limit on the KT C5 setting to restrict it back a bit.

The battery is a 10s5p using Samsung 29E cells. I started with fully charged battery which seems to be 41.9v, ended at 40.5 (G.T Power meter seems to read a bit higher than the controller LCD). Picture's show all the stats but over a couple of commute trips deliberately using more power assist and throttle than I normally would I seem to of averaged 15.39 watt hours per mile at an average of 16 mph. Peak amps 22.7 max 869 watt power.

Maybe I should restrict the max amps closer to 20ish ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Thanks for that. All good info.

Don't forget that the power on the LCD is now reading incorrectly because it's based on the original shunt resistance.

22A is probably OK as long as you're using the PAS as the main power control. When you use any level less than 5, the controller does not give full power. 5P Samsung 29E should have no problem with that, so as long as the BMS doesn't cut the power, you're good to go.

Do you know what the pre-mod current was?

 

[Jammyb]

Thanks for that. All good info.

Don't forget that the power on the LCD is now reading incorrectly because it's based on the original shunt resistance.

22A is probably OK as long as you're using the PAS as the main power control. When you use any level less than 5, the controller does not give full power. 5P Samsung 29E should have no problem with that, so as long as the BMS doesn't cut the power, you're good to go.

Do you know what the pre-mod current was?

Thanks d8veh

Unfortunately not, did the shunt mod before getting the watt meter. It’s sold as 15 amp but I have a feeling this version with the integrated controller might of been a bit higher. Interestingly there was already a small blob of solder on the shunt from new. I added a fair bit (little at a time) before I could really tell the difference in power. Would guess it was actually around about 17amps from stock.

I do mostly use PAS but have used full throttle a few time just for the novelty mostly, I tend to fine PAS 3 is enough to easily pedal along up to 20mph but use the throttle a bit on hills or to aid a quicker/ easier getaway from lights if I’ve stoped in a low gear.

Not yet had any bms cutouts so long as I’m not pushing the cells to an early grave I’ll keep it as is for a while and see how I get on. [emoji106]

I assume the motor watts are the only reading on the lcd that will be inaccurate post shunt mod?


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[Deleted member 4366]

T
I assume the motor watts are the only reading on the lcd that will be inaccurate post shunt mod?

Correct.