Yosepower hub kits.

[Nealh]

Maybe C1 setting is wrong ?

 

[Bobbo1260]

The reason they say not compatible with hydraulic disc is because they supply cable brake levers in the kit. If you want switches for your hydraulic brakes, you have to make or get them from somewhere else.

The same as they say not compatible with Hollowtech cranks. They are compatible, but you have to modify or get an alternative PAS.

I have the 250 watt front wheel fitted to my trike. Opted for this model as I want it road legal and 10 mph is fast enough on a trike belief me. I have read you can keep you existing levers and connect a long armed micro switch to each existing lever and connect them to the existing socket that would have connected to the supplied levers . There are loads on amazon.. On my wheel it will take a disc but you have to use the supplied screws so you don’t screw into the motor. I couldn’t use this option as my forks are not wide enough.
I believe the kit will run with out the levers fitted and to be honest who going to be braking and pedalling at the same time.
i have all in one crank arms and the have taper where PAS needs to sit so I ove come this by drilling. Hole in a plastic milk bottle top and stuck it over the retaining nut and the stuck the sensor to that. Sounds like bit of a bodge but it works.

Bobbo

 

[saneagle]

I've not been able to get the Yose power PAS to work with the LCD3.

It's because it has a different wiring sequence. You have to swap the wires over.

 

[Leeroy]

I have the 250 watt front wheel fitted to my trike. Opted for this model as I want it road legal and 10 mph is fast enough on a trike belief me. I have read you can keep you existing levers and connect a long armed micro switch to each existing lever and connect them to the existing socket that would have connected to the supplied levers . There are loads on amazon.. On my wheel it will take a disc but you have to use the supplied screws so you don’t screw into the motor. I couldn’t use this option as my forks are not wide enough.
I believe the kit will run with out the levers fitted and to be honest who going to be braking and pedalling at the same time.
i have all in one crank arms and the have taper where PAS needs to sit so I ove come this by drilling. Hole in a plastic milk bottle top and stuck it over the retaining nut and the stuck the sensor to that. Sounds like bit of a bodge but it works.

Bobbo

Did you remove the plastic disc thing that goes on the disc mount on the wheel? That will set the disc closer to the wheel and might give you room.

 

[Leeroy]

It's because it has a different wiring sequence. You have to swap the wires over.

Yep, mine wouldn’t work, ordered a kt compatible one from AliExpress.

 

[Bobbo1260]

Did you remove the plastic disc thing that goes on the disc mount on the wheel? That will set the disc closer to the wheel and might give you room.

The forks on my trike has such a tight opening that I had to add another washer the the hum axle to splay the the forks by a 1 1/2 millimetres.
if I were to fit a disc it would rub on the inside of the fork. To be honest the existing front brake works good enough when set up correctly and I’m only dong 10 mph tops unlike some of you guys who go careering down hills at frightening speeds.
Too scary for me. Flat roads and cycle paths are my limit with a gradient thrown in here and there.

 

[guerney]

@Bobbo1260 - Hope you don't mind my asking, but what are those stabilisers on what I assume is your trike on your profile pic? Did you install them? There was a thread a few months ago about bicycle stabilisers, threads about tricycles and their stability. I don't recall those being mentioned, but they look interesting.

 

[Nealh]

It's because it has a different wiring sequence. You have to swap the wires over.

Often many don't listen to what we say as now both of us have mentioned wire sequence a likely cause.

 

[Nealh]

Yep, mine wouldn’t work, ordered a kt compatible one from AliExpress.

If the connector is the moulded julet type then the pins outs may be different , one has to chop the connectors off and then marry the correct wires to each other and then PAS should work. Red /Red, Blk/ Blk and then the the pair of remaining colours are the signal, if wire colours differ we can tell you which goes to which. After that one has to set the C1 value in the display corretly to match the sensor type.

 

[Leeroy]

The forks on my trike has such a tight opening that I had to add another washer the the hum axle to splay the the forks by a 1 1/2 millimetres.
if I were to fit a disc it would rub on the inside of the fork. To be honest the existing front brake works good enough when set up correctly and I’m only dong 10 mph tops unlike some of you guys who go careering down hills at frightening speeds.
Too scary for me. Flat roads and cycle paths are my limit with a gradient thrown in here and there.

Well as long as you’ve got brake there, I’ve seen quite a few delivery riders bikes with disconnected front brakes
I’m not much of a fast rider myself, I rarely go over 15mph and when I do it’s often because I’ve got other cyclists stuck behind me!

 

[Leeroy]

If the connector is the moulded julet type then the pins outs may be different , one has to chop the connectors off and then marry the correct wires to each other and then PAS should work. Red /Red, Blk/ Blk and then the the pair of remaining colours are the signal, if wire colours differ we can tell you which goes to which. After that one has to set the C1 value in the display corretly to match the sensor type.

When you say c1 value setting for the sensor, do you mean the actual sensor or the magnetic disc?

 

[Nealh]

C1 is a bit of both, but first one needs to identify the sensor type used.
Basic RHS & DL types one will used settings 00 - 3 dependant on the magnet pole count.
Typically a basic 5 pole count = 00, 8 =1 , 10= 2 & 12 =3.
For the V series one will use 5 - 7 .

 

[Wayners]

Good how-to on yose kit. Thought I'd share.