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Is there an easy fix for this, or do I need to get a new battery?

It’s a perfect fit physically but I am not sure about the amps I can not find a 30 amp one that most of the other 10S BMS boards seem to be for 36V battery’s .

Specifications attached .

I could get a Blue tooth BMS I suppose and run balance wires through e]where I will remove the many Canbus wires

Cheers

Baz

Thanks.

my issue is that the electrical system shuts off in use and drive, lights and controller shut off and will not turn back on? kind of dangerous with no lights in the pitch black of a main road! the battery its on and can be showing a full charge and pulling it out providing you have the key and reinstalling it in the bike resets it and will work again. it can do this in any power setting but usually on flat smooth road at normal speed.

its had a new battery, new charger and been with halfords more times than I can count and i have even resorted to try and diagnose it myself with the LOGIX software and checking over the electrical system (im a qualified electrical and mechanical engineer including automotive tec) but the system shows no faults logged and is dead in fault condition.

im taking it that it picks up some kind of issue that shuts the system off ? iv checked the battery to cradle contacts and it has not long had a new battery. there is a pcb under the battery that i assume controls the motor and connection look good, all tight and no signs of water ingress. the folding frame has all sorts of wiring internally and i have tried to check all of that and too but at a loos and stuck with a bike that halfords cant fix and over a year so im stuck with labour charges. another 6 months and i'm out of electrical parts warranty. bike has been a an issue since day 1 so I'm loosing the will and just want to bottom the thing out now.

any bright sparks able to have an idea what's up?

The Panasonic battery will not charge, so the Li Ion batteries are probably dead. How can I either get a new battery or have this one reconditioned, without paying for an amount equal to a new ebike?

Those who've been around a while may remember my system not coming back on power if I go over the cutoff speed and continue to pedal and/or forget to operate the brake cut off.

And it's still doing it - if anything it's worse. Today, whilst admiring the wild flowers and stunning views, I forgot to pull the brake on a down ramp. This left me, again, with no power on the other side. Power cut in at some random point (I've never been able to ascertain parameters for this) and slowly ramped up from a lowly 60w to full 700w so slowly that I was down to about 6mph by the time I was getting usefull power. Result is that most of the time the speedo is getting more attention than the country side I'm riding through.

To add to this the speed cut off, that was nicely set at 15.5mph, today seemed to have spontaneously altered to something like 14.8mph. I've altered nothing since my last ride a few days ago.

I'm really hacked off with it. I have a suspicion that something in the controller may have been heat damaged when I was previously trying to run a 48v 328rpm motor at 36v in my 700c wheel. Don't ask why, suffice to say it was an abysmal failure. I'm now running a 36v motor correctly.

I'm running an AKM128 (250w label), T09S controller (set at 20A max) and lcd3 display.

I've tried different pas detector. All sorts of different settings. Speed registration matches a gps satnav, so P1 should be right.

I'm on the verge of ordering another controller but thought I'd give one more thing a go.

Which setting is it to change to speed control? I know it's going to be less subtle but it's what I'm used to from my Ezee days.

Just one more thing. I'm pretty sure the motor is whining more than when it was new. This is a smooth sound that continues after cutoff. There was some thought, from Saneagle, that the motor core was continuing to rotate when no power was applied, thus making the controller think it was over speed ?!?. Some thought that internal grease may be missing or too thick. Possible?

I still wonder if it is a con-job aimed at getting more seed capital, but if not, this is completely revolutionary.

The clue as to what it might be, comes at minute 15. It could be some kind of hybrid super capacitor with a revolutionary technology. The claim is that it contains no lithium, none of the cobalt, nickel and manganese that we use now. If this is true it has nothing to do with the battery technologies we use now.

Thanks

The Panasonic battery will not charge, so the Li Ion batteries are probably dead. How can I either get a new battery or have this one reconditioned, without paying for an amount equal to a new ebike?

I don't use my e-bike very often. However I do still charge the battery every now and then. I last used the bike a couple of months ago and the battery seemed strong and working well.

A few days ago I put the battery on the charger and left it in the garage. I returned to it some hours later and the light on the charger had turned green. All looked normal. But when I switched on the power to the bike (from the button on the led panel on the handlebars), it was completely dead. I removed the battery from the bike.

It's a 36V battery. I measured its voltage at the battery +/- terminals, and weirdly it showed an output of about 0.25V. Flipping the on/off switch on the battery casing made no difference. I also measured the voltage being output by the charger and that seemed fine, at around 42V.

I researched on the web, and found several sites/posts mentioning that the battery could need "re-balancing".

After more reading around, I opened up the battery casing and measured the voltage of each of the groups of cells. There are 30 individual cells inside the case, arranged in 10 groups I believe. Each group was giving between 4.06V and 4.09V, except for one group which was at 4.29V.

I don't know if that was high enough to cause the BMS to prevent any further charging. But I tried to re-balance the battery by partly discharging the group with the highest voltage. As suggested on another post here, I did this by connecting a 12V car bulb to it for about an hour. This brought its voltage down to 4.09V, so it was now in line with all the other groups.

But the voltage being output by the whole battery is still unchanged at 0.25V. I connected it to the charger and it seemed like it was charging up and after 20 minutes the charger showed the green light. But there was no change to the battery output voltage. I tested the operation of the on/off switch in the battery casing, and that's working fine.

Now I am stuck. Maybe it's not just a "re-balancing" issue, but a deeper BMS problem. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions that would help me diagnose, and if possible, fix the problem please?

Thanks

I'm wondering weather i can set my T06S KT controller to work on a sport mode ( full power) and when i turn it off, it turns back on in normal uk restricted power? ie max 15.5 mph.

can anyone tell me if that is possible? so i can ride unresticted on private land and then be street legal when i want to be?

many Thanks

Tim

So, now I feel a bit confident to fix the the original swifty rear wheel, got the spokes put them, got the rim back in to shape, now time to wire the old motor to the new controller, this is where I'm stuck, the old motor has 6 wires the new wire from the controller has 9, thought easy match the colours, nope all I get when I use the throttle is "info 03 " on the display.

I had a read of old posts and checked around the web, tried different wire combinations, still can't get it work.

I'm kinda at a loose end, I checked and double checked all the wires are joined, checked the motor is still fine by touching the phase wires together, short of seeing if I can change the PCB board in the motor to a 6 wire one not a 3 wire in there at the moment I don't know where to go next.

Any help greatly received.

Stuart

Does someone know the purpose of these 3 wires? What are they communicating to the charger? Are they necessary? Can we replace this charger with a standard 42V + / - charger if we attach the old connector and just solder the +/- wires in to the new charger?

Just new to forum, been having problems with the above,any help appreciated! Was out on bike then stopped to chat to someone,everything fine before that,when i started to move off there was no pedal assist but throttle was working!

I also had full battery on my display and was still registering speed? This has happened on and off recently its driving me nuts lol! when i pedal with no assist there is no noise from motor.Any help appreciated ! I am not technically minded and had conversion done by someone its a MTB 29er converted.Thanks!

He had a really bad experience with with his electric Brompton, which he sold after waiting for ages for spares.

I was convinced that buying a service kit, replacing the motor cover plate including som gears and bearing, would solve the problem.

Our hope dropped, when we openend up the motor and everything lloked fine, but we carried on, and weren't supprised, when they noise was barely reduced.

I will descrbe the noise as a scraping noise, akin to a chain scraping agains a dented chain guard, but it's not that.

The noise comes as soon as the motor starts pulling.

My friend is really strained for cash, and I feel bad for tricking him into buying the bike.

He loves the ride, because it's a large framed one, and he has long legs, and it fits him perfectly.

It looks fine, but not new, and he paid the equivalent of £335 for it, and £165 (wasted) for the service kit.

What can cause the noise?

Question I’ve been given a Swift think Halfords? Headset lights up but no power to hub motor, I’m ok with these hubs having re wired my oxygen hub recently, and replaced all bearings.

The controller is one of these, see photos,

LSW06-HLK1AFSB-U 36v 15 amp

Are these available in uk, plenty on US EBay, , can anyone suggest an alternative, possibly with the same hub connection think 9 pin .

Don’t want to spend lots as really only need as spare bike.

I’m happy to cobble something together if needs must.

Thanks for any assistance..

• Bosch 'powermore' system. As far as I can tell this system will run down both batteries (main and extender) at the same rate. So if (at the end of a day's riding) both batteries are at 50%, it's only possible to add another 50% to the extender. You start the next day with 50% of main and 100% of extender. Not ideal, especially if day 2's B&B doesn't allow charging either.

• Specialised Creo range extender. This appears to have two modes; you can switch between using the extender first, or using them both together (as per the Bosch system). Using the extender first means that it will be at 0% at the days' end, and the main battery will be at more than 50%, - so you can add more charge to the extender and start the next day in a better state of charge overall. One drawback of this system, though, is that you need to use the app to switch modes, and if left on 'extender first' mode the bike won't be powered at all when the extender runs out. So any problem getting the app to talk to the bike mid-ride would be a bit of a disaster.

• Mahle X35 system ; the range extender for this will charge the main battery as it runs down (it doesn't power the bike directly), so it will by default run down first and therefore can be recharged fully at the B&B. This seems to be a similar method for the newer Mahle systems (X20).

Clearly one solution for the 'charging at B&B' scenario is to use a removable battery like the Fazua system. I have tried this and wasn't very happy for various reasons which is why I'm considering a new bike.

Can anyone confirm any of the above, or offer any other thoughts , or systems I haven't noted?

Thanks