I tried charging it (battery in bike) but the charger was constantly showing green.

I swapped displays over to my partner's bike as she has the exact same setup - both displays are working fine for her bike.

I took the battery out and when I pushed the on button all the lights came on and went off again.

I plugged into the charger and the charger LED went red. A few hours later it turned green, making me think it must just have been a flat battery (though a month of not cycling seemed quite short for it to go totally flat).

When I reinserted it into the bike battery holder there was a big flash and a smell of burning! So I took it out immediately and looked at the terminals. On the battery pack the two positive springs appear charred and the two positive spikes on the battery park holder have actually partly melted!

I used a multimeter to measure the voltage between either of the battery's positive and negative terminals - in each case it's 41.2 volts.

So I currently have a paperweight of a heavy bike with a motor but no power or battery, and a battery that looks like it won't even fit into the holder as the prongs have melted.

Admittedly the battery is five years old, but I have not used the bike as often as I expected to and would have thought there was still a reasonable amount of life left in the battery cells. Is it possible to replace the prongs on both battery and holder terminals? Or do I need a new battery and holder (in which case I hope compatible ones are still available?) It's a 36V 17AH downtube for front wheel (XF07) motor.

there is a knocking noise coming from the bottom bracket of my Woosh Krieger. The Krieger has a Bewo mid-drive motor, also known as a TCM motor. I can't find any information on it online.

It has gradually been getting worse. It only happens in the mid gears, 3, 4 and 5. The motor/clutch/gear-case assembly is not loose on the bottom bracket so it must be the bearings. Also there is a little side play between the crank axle and the gear-case assembly. I have done 4,500 miles.

Is it possible to get replacement bottom bracket bearings for the Krieger? Are they cup and cone or caged bearings?

Thanks.

I have had and been using my Gran Camino for about a year and a half I was generally really pleased with it, though the thumb throttle stopped working pretty early on - I not sure what's wrong with it but I rarely used it so haven't looked into it.

I've managed to break the seat post cap bolt twice not sure how as I weigh about 14st max and it says suitable up to (20st) 25st on tarmac roads (which is where I broke mine). I took the broken bolt to a couple of bike shops and toolers but they said they have nothing equivelant as it seems to be a non standard size (chinese sizing?). I Messaged the maintenance guy at Woosh the first time and he was very good, after sending me the wrong bolt initially he sent me a replacement. This second time he seems to be ignoring my emails for some reason - I'm not asking him to send me a replacement - just tell me the spec or where I can source it as I'll probably get a few or get a titanium version if possible.

It's a bit of a shame as had only good things to say about Woosh and was going to get a Rambletta as my next bike soon but this has put me off a bit as my bike is currently unrideable and it's proving to be a bit frustrating.

Can anyone help me with the bolt - the biggere silver one is incorrect (7mm?) its the smaller black one I'm after. Thanks

A member suggested on this thread:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/need-new-front-wheel-with-motor.48215/page-2#post-735220

the following:

"Its a pretty low risk purchase - front hub 36V motor 20" wheel, 100mm forks ? (check) make sure it supports v brakes , 9 pin connector ? (check). Maybe [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] has some ....."

Is it worth me asking Andy?

Alternatively, I see that Woosh now offer a 36V, 20AH battery with 21700 cells.

Will it fit my old Big Bear rack?

Thanks.

My Big Bear's power has been cutting out intermittently.

I'll be riding along, then lose all power, yet the display is still on.

On one occasion, I could see the battery charge indicator decrease, step by step, from five to one.

When this happens, I have power from neither the pedal assist nor the throttle.

Continuing to try the throttle, or restarting at the display has, up to now, corrected the issue.

I purchased a Rio Mountain bike off yourselves about five years ago. It is still going fine but I was wondering if it is possible to replace the Lishui KD58C display with a larger screened model.

At the moment I am struggling to read the small screen whilst riding. Also if it is possible how difficult would it be?

Look forward to a reply

My Big Bear motor started cutting out yesterday.

Thankfully, it started again and got me the couple of miles back home.

This morning, I got a few hundred yards from home and it cut out again. This time, it would not restart and remains inoperative.

I am getting Error Code - 23 on the display.

I bought a kit from you some years back with a 17AH 36V HL type battery. This has provided great service and I have covered 3500 miles according to the odometer.

I also bought a Brompton kit from you (minus the frog style battery) about 2 or 3 years ago and just fitted a new cradle to take the same HL battery.

So I swap the battery between bikes. This has now covered about 2500 miles.

All in all I'm very pleased.

A fault has developed though. The battery case has been damaged a bit over the years falling off the cradle when I forgot to lock it in place. My fault totally.

Now, when I connect the battery to the first bike (MTB) the King Meter display does not switch on at all. When connecting the King Meter from the Brompton kit however, it does switch on. This is a later meter I think (KM525 iirc).

So I swapped this meter over to the MTB and it worked for about 15 mins then the unit switched off. I could hear what sounded like a clicking coming from the battery or the controller. If I jiggle battery in the cradle I can now get the meter to switch on but it instantly switches off.

Is this shorting out? I tested the two outer terminals of the battery for voltage and it reads 41V. Should there be voltage on the two inner terminals? There is no short between any of the terminals as I tested continuity on all combinations with the multi meter.

Any thoughts?

EDIT: On closer inspection it seems some of the little plastic "walls" between terminals have broken away. So it may be shorting out in the cradle when the prongs go in. I will attempt to bodge a repair here. Still not certain if this is the issue. Can a new battery case be bought separately? I'm reasonably competent with a soldering iron.

I would like to know what the inner terminals are for, if anything. Should they be providing a lower voltage for the display perhaps? Or does everything run from the outer terminals?

The guy says he has been using the charger which came with the bike for 2 years

Is it best to get the correct 24v output charger

Thanks

Thanks

First ever e-bike, had it a couple weeks. The motor constantly feels/sounds like it's constantly restarting every pedal rotation. It's not smooth and feels like if you were to move your foot constantly up and down on your car accelerator. Is this normal?

I went for a ride in the rain last week (which I thought should be ok with the e-bike kit) and my kit suddenly switched off, I assumed this was due to the battery being low (hadn't checked the level in a while). I left it over the weekend and went to charge and noticed the light on the battery pack started flickering red. I also noticed a spark when I plugged the power pack to the battery. After 2 hours of charge it won't switch in. Do you think this is due to water getting in the system? Any ideas on a fix?

Any suggestions

I’ve recently received a 250w Bafang BBS01B motor that I think is faulty (eBay shop). It’s the 4th motor I’ve installed.

UnfortunatelyI didn’t check it before I reprogrammed it (to the settings I have on all the other motors that are for smoothness and not overloading) and it’s dead. So to diagnose it I removed the motor and plugged in a controller that I knew was working. I just tested it with the throttle, which initially worked, then when I switched it off and on again the working controller was now dead, even when I plugged it back into my working motor.

So I’m wondering how likely it is that there is an issue with the motor itself which is overloading the controllers?I should mention that there is no error code and the screen is showing 20w with the throttle 1/3rd on, and there’s a quiet clicking sound but no life in the motor.

I can send the motor back, but I have to pay return postage to Germany, or they’re asking for $45 for them to send me a new controller. It’s annoying, but I just want to get it sorted!

Thanks in advance

Pete

To clarify, I was happily riding along as normal and the motor stopped working, although the LCD suggested everything was fine - battery full, mileage being recorded, etc.

Cheers!

is there a specific type of rack that attaches to the Camino that bolts onto the frame, all replacements I have found have generic attachment points near the wheel or seat posts.

Can anyone point me in the direction of what type of rack I can get to attach to the frame attachment points, or is the rack on Camino some sort of custom rack that I can't find a similar replacement for

cheers

John