Recent content by AviatorTrainman

My vote for a 350 watt geared motor is the q100, although that's just because it's the only one I've owned. It's reasonably cheap from bmsbattery.com (though they'll hit you with hefty shipping charges), and comes in front and rear versions, with the rear being for freewheel or cassette.

Shoot, just realized I forgot to update this thread after rebuilding my battery. I'm running on 44v now, which is alright, I just need a new BMS and charger so I don't have to check the voltage every few minutes while charging. In any case, using the code given above, and tweaking a few of the...

I'm glad I learned that now, with a minor failure in a small pack, rather than say something catastrophic in a large pack that I'll be doing for my dad over the summer.

Thank you, I didn't know those existed. They'll be on my next battery for sure!

Bad news, I won’t be able to test for a while. I’ve been having battery issues since late February, like cutting out over speed bumps, and I figured it was a loose connection. I opened up my battery today, and found this: I count myself extremely lucky for 2 reasons. One, it was a clear night...

I've updated my code with both the proportionality and a cut-throttle failsafe, so the lag is now less than half a second when throttling up or down, and less than a millisecond when releasing the throttle all the way. (Yes, I mean that. Dropping the throttle in programming now happens faster...

Hello all, I recently made this device and thought I'd share it with the community, both to help others and to possibly get others to help me. Essentially, it's an Arduino hooked up to the signal from the twist/thumb throttle, a PWM smoothing circuit which is in turn connected to the throttle...

From my understanding, that's exactly it. To quote user DuncanDK, "the motor builds up a backdraft voltage as it spins up." Thus, at higher RPMs, the controller is unable to push in more power because the motor is "pushing back" with nearly as high a voltage as the battery.

This is the 201 RPM version running at 48 V. The controller shows 650 and 850 W at C5 values of 03 and 04 respectively.

This is a Q100C. My understanding is that the C takes less power than the H. Is 20 amps okay for short periods on the C, or do I need to keep it at 15? I try not to keep it at 20 for more than 30 seconds continuously, just sometimes while powering from a stop or at the base of a hill.

Hi, just to clarify, the throttle setting is roughly proportional to top speed. If it put it at halfway, the controller will put full power until ~25 km/h. More throttle, higher speed, and vice versa. WRT current, I have the C5 value set to 03 most of the time, for 15 amps, and 04 when I really...

Sorry again for the late reply, but I eventually just went ahead and got a 12 FET controller before I saw your comment about all sinewave controllers supporting torque simulation. That was stupid of me. It's too big for the saddle bag, but is otherwise working perfectly for my purpose with one...

I've looked at what PSWPower has to offer, and maybe I'm just missing the obvious, but I can't seem to find a sensored 48v torque simulation controller. Is the one you linked on aliexpress a torque simulation controller? The listing doesn't mention that it is. On BMSBattery the only sensored...

Sorry if this is too late for the thread, but does anybody know of a sensored torque simulation controller that can do 18 amps then? The reason I’m not running 22 is that from what I’ve read here and elsewhere, that might cook my motor pretty quickly. I’m fairly good with electronics, and I’ve...

Oh, I just realized I should mention this. I’m going home for the holidays and I’ll be away from my bike from tomorrow until the 7th of January, so I won’t be able to implement any changes until after then. I will keep checking the thread though.