Recent content by Dadam

Yes exactly. It's the way my Orbea works so just assumed that was the standard way. On the Woosh conversion yep I just ride in max, but I do have to drop it back to 2 or 3 on a shared overpass on my commute as otherwise I'm going too fast for mixing with pedestrians (often parents taking kids...

Thanks I'll email Woosh. I'm a bit surprised as it seems a bit useless just to have speed levels. It's not as if it needs some sophisticated logic; at the end of the day it just needs a different proportion of the max voltage supplying to the motor.

Hi I've got the above display on my Woosh Bikes conversion (XF08C hub motor) Overall I love the kit but I find the display a bit annoying. It has five levels of assist but it seems that the levels have different cutoff speeds, with only level 5 cutting off at the 15.5 (25km/h) legal max. All...

I hear you, but it would have niggled me, with the lugs of the anti rotation washers not fully inside the dropouts. For the sake of 15 quid it was a no brainer. It's fitted now and all seems solid. Out of interest do you get many customers' bikes with shallow dropouts like mine?

Thanks for the clarification. As I say though, that doesn’t seem to fit with this motor in this frame/these brake mounts. It’s a bit annoying that the compatibility of this combo seems marginal. It’s a Giant Escape, a road oriented hybrid, so nothing weird or obscure. But apart from the nut...

12mm? Did you mean 2mm thick (typo), or 12mm ID? If you look at the OP, that was with the supplied 2mm washer (might be 2.5, can't easily measure without taking it out) inside the dropout and the AR washer outside. That configuration put the caliper too close to the disc (in fact the disc...

Managed to find my verniers and nipped out to the garage. The end of the axle is 3.4mm inside the edge of the nut, however the inner bevelled surface is roughly 1.7mm deep so the actual amount of missing thread engagement is only 1.7mm, and there's a good 9mm engaged.

Problem is as I mentioned upthread I needed it on the inside to align the disc in the caliper. The photo angle makes the nut engagement look worse.

Ordered and fitted 5mm torque arm, the same one as @Waspy, better safe than sorry. Didn't want to file the dropouts deeper as it would be getting close to the fixing bolts for the derailleur hanger, and potentially weakening them. I wanted to fit it drive side as I thought it would be neater...

Filing dropouts deeper would mean I'd need to add a spacer to the brake caliper mount. Sigh, this is all getting further from what I wanted: a lightweight, discreet kit that wouldn't require too drastic changes to the bike, ie I could put it back to close to standard.

Fair point, aluminium isn't the hardest material (one reason I didn't want to remove any material) and simple wear and tear could start to widen the gap. I'll look into it thanks.

I hear what you're saying, but what I meant was the axle rotating before it was in the dropout while manhandling the wheel into position. Probably due to spring tension of derailleur pulling on the cassette.

I don't know about those. It's a 250w, 45nm motor that I'm not intending to uprate and I would expect Woosh would advise if one were needed.

A busy week and weekend so I did get to it until last night, but it's now sorted, thanks for all your help. I didn't file anything, but I spread the fork a little with a reversible clamp (turns out my nice screw sash cramp doesn't have reversible jaws) and to make things easier removed the rack...

Thanks all. @Woosh I haven’t emailed Andy as it’s not a problem with the kit per se but I will tomorrow. @Waspy Yes I removed the spacer. V brake mounts: the bike came with hydro discs, it never occurred to me to check, but it’s academic as I’m not minded to downgrade the brakes! :) @saneagle...