Recent content by James28

All my switch does is disconnect the battery from the controller. LifePo4 ebike full build | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community There's my build if you were interested. this is sounding more and more like I should series in another 4 cells and see how 48v runs compared to the 36v at slower speeds

It is a G020 hub winding code 10 so its a little quicker but it is 36 v so 48v might put the rpm up quite a bit more than a 48v code 12. I'm glad to here overheating is not a problem but would a motor with a lower winding speed have an easier time getting up a hill as apposed to a higher rpm...

I keep a close eye on my voltage already, I was going to wire it so it would effectively just series all the cells together from 12 to 16 Its a good point, I would end up with 12 cells at lower voltage than the extra 4 I'm adding if I only use the extra 4 part time but I though cells would only...

I do have a switch with a soft start on my main battery at the moment. It has survived a good few hundred uses even after I stopped using the soft start, although I've never switched it on/off under load. the idea is to use something like a 60v 20a relay so I can switch under load. The point...

I've been running a bafang hub motor on 36v for a while now and it gives me reasonable low speed performance and tops out around 20mph which is ok but I would like a higher top speed. If I upgrade my battery to 48v this will give me a higher top speed but I think I'm right in saying this will...

My main concern is with the cells themselves. I made a load of dummy cells out of pvc pipe (my cells are 33mm diameter x 140mm), put a wire through the middle, terminals on each end and filled them with sand to get the right weight. I fixed the pack together as if i had the real cells in place...

I have wondered how people managed to get away with batteries mounted only on the bottle cage mounts. It seems like a lot to put on 2 bolts to me. I see no designs of ebikes (particuly factory ebikes) make much if any effort to protect the battery from shock. Maybe i just think they are more...

I wanted to hear your views on how necessary you think it is to isolate a battery from the general road vibrations and shock you get from riding. Ie hitting a pothole hole or just a generally uneven surface. Obviously full suspension bikes and fat bikes would have most of this isolated but what...

I did consider it but the mechanical stregnth is no-where near as good as leaded or unleaded solder. My design at the time needed a decent mechanical bond between the cells. I know you shouldn't rely on solder for that but its plenty capable on joints of this size. I did try to assemble the...

I suppose it could be but i not had an issue. I did test it by switching it while underload and it seems to have survived

Its about £15 for a sheet from aliexpress for 100mmx100mmx0.1mm. I have access to an xray machine at work so i tested it for purity, the xray showed 99% + purity

Building an E-bike is something I've wanted to do for a very long time and last year I finally got round to it, hopefully there is some value in here to anybody looking to do the same thing. In this write up I will cover pretty much my whole build and share my experience and hopefully inspires...

Im using a kt controller and a kt lcd 3, i believe it calculates speed from inputing the number of poles ( of the motor) x the gear reduction and the wheel size. Its basically all built in.

I did wonder at what point spokes became too big for rim drillings. 12/13 seems pretty massive for a bicycle (imo). Pro's can put far more through a wheel than the 400watts im putting though mine with fewer and thinner spokes. The sapim strongs are 13 gauge at the j bend and 14 thoughout the...

I halved the flange to flange, added 5.6 to the left to give 26.85, took 5.6 off the right side to get 15.65. Which did seem like quite a big difference to me. It looks like i have my left and right mixed up, the calculator im using uses different left and right for the front and back wheels. I...