Recent content by Kamakiriad

Thought you'd all like to know the failing Kalkhoff has finally been rescued and, touch wood, we have a rideable e-bike again. The local bike shop advised me not to re-lace the spokes and they just tightened them up (a second time). No more creaking! So far we are impressed with the...

It has taken ages but the Kalkhoff is rideable again. Well, almost. It was not too hard to rewire the battery, and once the battery has run down we will see if the old charger still works or not. The problem just now is Cyclotricity's wheel. It is actually the second wheel they have sent me...

Thank you Nealh. We don't want to have to wait too long for delivery, so is this one or this one suitable? Also can anyone recommend a suitable charger? D8veh suspects the Kalkhoff charger won't work as it depends on data from the battery.

I am pleased to report that the battery test has been successful. Console fires up, throttle and PAS both turn the motor. Is there a particular BMS anyone would recommend?

Thank you Kirstin. That's exactly what I suggested in post #30 though I maybe didn't phrase it well. What then threw me was in post #31 D8veh says "you should always use a BMS with a lithium battery". I apologise for any confusion caused and time wasted. I will update when replacement wheel...

Anybody?! I will understand if D8veh is fed up with my inability to understand his instructions o_O

So I hook BMS up as in post #36 but don't involve the controller?

Think I understand now. At the moment the BMS is completely removed. Do I re-fit it and plug all the thin wires back into it apart from the call pack + and - which I connect to the controller instead?

So can you just clarify, you want me to put the battery back together as it originally was, with the BMS and all the data wires plugged in (first photo, post #32). I don't cut or disconnect any wires. Then I connect the two thick terminals + and - on the output socket directly to the controller...

Okay so I must fit the old BMS back on again. Here is the output socket: But I don't think I can make my battery "dumb" by simply not connecting the white plug carrying these extra data wires. Back in post #13 I did this: which is the equivalent and nothing happened. Only 1 volt between...

By a dumb battery I assume you mean I just hook up the main pos and neg terminals and no BMS as if it were a car battery? If so I will test the motor when it comes back from the shop, hopefully later this week. I had to return it as the wheel rim had a "flat spot". Kind thanks.

Sorry D8veh, now I really am confused. There is no other 11-pin connector and it sounds like I have already done exactly what you are asking me. Can I (politely!) ask you to check through my previous posts and photos? If I am missing something please accept my apologies. I am happy to send the...

Sorry if I'm being dopey. The voltages are of course the same at the other end of the wires and conveniently they are in order. So from L to R, 0 (black, continuity), 4 (red), 8 (yellow), 12 (green), 16 (orange), 21 (brown), 25 (white), 30 (blue), 34 (purple), 38 (black), 42 (red). Then come the...

Here we are - using an analogue voltmeter.

Can anyone help me here? Can I modify the battery to fit the Cyclotricity controller which only has red and black wires for the battery? The Kalkhoff battery has data wires on both output socket and charging socket. If no reply received soon I will start a new thread in Technical area.