Recent content by potato

And.. it appears I have to eat my words. Replacement TSDZ2 cranks arrived yesterday (remembering my originals arrived with wonky pedal holes), fitted them today and... Bags of clearance with them torqued to 40nm, and rides perfectly. Now I have a different dilemma.. I tried out the little...

If I had a welder I would have considered adding a dot of weld to the axle for the crank arms to seat against before binding. Probably for the best I have to be patient for a proper solution than such bodges!

I sent a video of the issue to the seller and they've said its because I'm using steps crank arms rather than the originals (which arrived with virtually no thread in the pedal holes). I don't really buy this as an answer unless they decided to make up their own axle standard, but with the...

Thank you for going to that effort, I appreciate it. I agree that the presence or not of a shoulder is irrelevant so long as the taper is correct. I measured the largest exposed bit of the axle on the non drive side as 31.8mm. The other side I didn't measure as I thought I'd cracked it with the...

Fresh look at it today and it all becomes clear, I have a friday afternoon axle. Drive side - fine Slightly blurry non drive side - no flats for the arm to seat onto before it binds. Not impressed with the quality of this kit so far with the original crank arms not being threaded correctly...

Hmm. It's the non drive side arm I've replaced. I hope I haven't over torqued it and goosed the new arm! If the tolerance on the axle is the issue maybe a smear of loctite or grease might cause it to nip up just that fraction earlier.. Thinking aloud

After disassembling it, it was apparent the motor + bearings were fine, just loose crank bolt on the square taper axle had completely nuked the crank arm. I only had a small torque wrench (up to 24nm) so guessed, and seemingly I didn't guess very well. That said.. one new crank arm later, and...

Back with an update. After 60 miles of shakedown riding I lent the bike to a friend to use for a bit whilst my kid grows enough to fit the seat :) Said friend has zero mechanical sympathy or interest in maintenance so I figured it would be a good test to make sure it was proof against my wife...

The battery is a 12.5ah unit, you can get 15ah and 17.5ah ones in the same body ie same physical size, and to the person that asked, yes I did indeed leave out the uni + racecourse - in summer I might extend out to the dundas aquaduct but that'll be it I think! I'm gradually becoming more...

Simple - I'm not :) the ES folk have done plenty of harsh testing after the same cooling mod as I've done and found the cooling improvement to be ample

Tiny cosmetics.. panniers didn't respond to attempts to revive them so they'll have to soldier on as is. Yepp seat mount got a going over with paint stripper, wire brush and eventually sanding with a dremel to get rid of rust, then repainted in copper rattle can to at least superficially match...

Replacement shimano steps crank arms arrived today from Bikester, so popped them on along with new pedals and off we go. Plenty of clearance to the motor, and even on a short test ride it feels amazing, feels more stable than before on downhills with the extra battery weight. Putting in the...

Half an hour spare this morning - thermal pads and grease arrived yesterday, so lets crack on.. Bit of paper trimmed to size as a trial formed the template for the shape to cut the 2mm sheet into - 5 sections, there technically could be a 6th but it looked like a mare to get to the back by the...

Back on topic about my ute build! Test ride using the original ill fitting bullet connectors from motor to battery was mostly successful. Motor is perfect, so I snipped off the bullet connectors, soldered the wires with heat shrink around everything so that's sorted. The thing that didn't go...