Scorpio

Hi, just some info & feedback: The old site needed username + password to log in, the new site needs email address + password (not a problem, just something to be aware of as I needed to change my saved login details). I couldn't log in with my existing password so requested a password reset. The reset password email went to my spam folder (as mentioned upthread). On my laptop (Ubunto + Brave browser) I couldn't reply as I got "This site is insecure - click here to return to your emails". My mobile phone was happy to reset my password. Hope it all goes smoothly and any reported niggles are easily fixed 🤞

[mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] swapping the wires worked fine, I.O.U The controller is super basic, no LCD display just 3 LEDs to show the charge in the battery. Next question will be - what type of glue will work to hold the new hall sensors into the hub? Also (I'm expecting to tie the new wires inside the hub using brown cord) what type of glue to stop the cord coming loose? I'm in Portugal so choices are limited, superglue for the cords? My guess is rubber based glue (Bostic etc) will fail once the hub heats up so are best avoided.. Will superglue work to hold the hall sensors in place or will it fail with the heat ? The motor isn't fully assembled yet so I'll clean it up and repaint it before I finally assemble things - a tin of spray paint is already on tomorrows shopping list. Last job will be to strip the failed "new" wheel and use the the rim + spokes to rebuild the the original (now working) motor where they were when I got the bike. I'm hoping it will result in better torque, the Yose motor was from a 26" wheel and this is a 27" bike..

Summary: I rebuilt a scrap front hub motor, now it works fine *but* is running in reverse (so the motor works but the freewheel means the wheel doesn't move) Any advice which wires I need to swap to reverse the direction? The wiring now : is as you'd expect, ( hub halls + phase wires connect to same colour on the controller, yellow/green/blue) The wires are old style connection blocks (easy to swap around) not waterproof Juliet types.. I hoped it would be as simple as swapping the wires for the 2 "outside" hall sensors (keep yellow in the middle, swap blue / green), then also swap matching phase wires - that didn't work. Any advice appreciated, is there a simple solution ie: "swap wires from these 2 hall sensors then swap these 2 phase wires... " (and more importantly, which colours?) How I got here : The bike came as an elderly non-working 24 volt project that had been vandalised. I fitted a spare Yose hub ( re-laced using the original rim + spokes), fitted a 36 volt battery + controller I'd been given. All worked well so the bike was used by visitors, unfortunately one of them turned out to be a bit of an idiot and killed the bike by pulling the wires out (and damaging the hub wiring) Since getting the bike I have stripped and refurb'd the original hub motor, freed off the siezed freewheel, replaced damaged wiring, blown hall sensors, etc. It was all wired up using the working Yose hub as a pattern, I can now plug either hub into the controller on the bike and the motors spin happily. The bad news is the freewheel on the original hub is the reverse of the freewheel on the Yose hub ! End result, I now need to reverse the motor by swapping wires so it will engage with the freewheel. A minor thing is the motor will need to be mounted "backwards" with the wire from the axle running up the opposite side to the Yose motor. Not a problem - just unexpected. Background about the bike https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/kemp-starley-dutch-town-bike-out-of-hibernation.37181/

Just found a sales ad with photos etc (out of stock .. obsolete?) https://www.ebikes.co.uk/qdos-black-electric-bike That has a link to an online manual https://www.ebikes.co.uk/mpattachment/file/download/id/5/ A shame the bike I'm looking at has back light at the bottom of the back mudguard, the one in the link has no back light - so instructions don't explain how to turn it on

Hi. I've been offered a QDos Infusion folding commuter from someone who bought it with good intentions but never used it. Good points: It's still in the wrapping, battery still has charge, keys are still zip-tied onto the handlebars from the factory. It has a back light (but I can't find a way to turn it on from the controller). Doubltful bits : Bike has been standing unused indoors for about 2 years since it got unpacked. Battery is a puny 24v/7Ah, assume front motor is legal 250W, cable rim brakes, low spec Shimano 6 speed. Not the spec I'd hope for but that's what it is. Assume battery isn't 100% - but will it still be usable? I'm a tall chap and the bike is a folding "universal / medium" commuter with 20" rims - it feels like a toy. The charger & instruction manual are somewhere on the house but haven't been found yet; I saw them when the bike was new but things have been moved since.. Controller is super basic with 3 power levels. This is a spare bike to use as emergency transport, it won't be getting money spent on upgrades or upgraded / 36V batteries... Both tyres are flat, it has no tyre pump or lock (and I'm away from home so need to buy or borrow both before I can ride it) Main reasons I'm tempted : it's here, it's (hopefully) cheap or free, my car is off the road for a few weeks, and I'd like to visit a mate (possibly 20 mile round trip, possibly stay the night & recharge the battery before the return trip). Questions Does anyoine have any experience with these or know where I can find a manual? How does the back light turn on? How do I value this? I suspect the owner paid top price, she is a friend so if she thinks it's worth hundreds I'll leave it rather than upset the friendship... as a freebie it could be usefuil I'll get photos in daylight but it looks like this Qdos Infusion was also sold as an Elife Infusion ( I found an old advert with an identical bike - photos..) https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/classifieds/for-sale-2-elife-infusion-folding-ebikes-%E2%80%93-light-use-outdoor-stored-restoration-friendly-dl14.434/ many thanks

Thanks for the info but that's one petition I'll not be signing. I have family overseas where they have the same "If a car hits a cyclist - the car driver is presumed guilty" laws. It makes driving there very stressful as cyclists cross junctions without looking; they know if a car hits them the law says the car driver is at fault.

If you explain what the project is for you might get some more tailored suggestions : What are you moving? How far from the bottom of the incline to the top? What about steering? How will you get it back down the hill? Use an electric wheelchair / mobility scooter as a base for the project? Use remote control for the up/down left/right controls to save dragging a control wire behind the unit (how will you make sure you don't drive over the wire??) A fixed winch at the top of the hill isn't very interesting but could be a neat simple solution.

Hi everyone, I'm looking to upgrade the 36V/13Ah (468 kw/h ?) downtube battery that came with my Yose kit. The KT controller is dual voltage 36v/48v so I'd like to move up to 48v. Am I right in thinking this will increase the speed of the motor but make little difference to the torque? The bike is used for light touring and commuting duties so any decent battery will be ok, no need to pay extra for top spec cells. Capacity now is just about ok so I'm looking the smaller 48v options rather than 15ah or above. I'm based in Portugal so buying anywhere in EU is fine. Suggestions welcome PSW have 48v/13ah (624 kw/h ?) from Germany for 144 euros which looks ok, the only downside I can see is it has generic "cells from China" ( their larger batteries have Samsung cells) https://www.pswpower.com/products/eu-no-tax-electric-ebike-battery-hailong-g70-samsung-lg-18650-cells-pack-48v-13ah-145ah-175ah-lithium-battery-fit-1000w-motor-108 Yose prices all seem very high https://yosepower.com/collections/e-bike-battery Any others I've missed? Link to the build thread https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/yose-350-rear-hub-kit-transplanted-onto-scott.40186/ many thanks

Try Shipley, you advertise the job there (what, where from / where to) and couriers give you their best price. https://www.shiply.com/ It costs you nothing to advertise... Check the couriers feedback before booking, a friend often uses the site to move cars - most jobs go well, some don't.

Things are now working after fitting a new hall sensor - many thanks to everyone who offered advice I ordered a pack of new hall sensors over the holidays and made time today to replace the failed one in the hub, the bike is now back in use. Next on my to-do list is to replace the damaged motor cable and all 3 (failed) hall sensors in the scrap hub that came with the bike in the hope it's a stronger motor than the cheap one currently fitted. Fun times

Just to wrap this up, I ordered the kit of connectors and a couple of extension cables while I was away at Christmas, just got back home and am happy to report that the kit is exactly what I needed. Many thanks to [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] and [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention]

Perfect, I'm happy to buy a box of the connectors but didn't know what they were called so couldn't find them. I'd spent a while looking before I asked but was getting nowhere. A couple of cables have now been ordered and a box of connectors, all is good. Many thanks for the help. [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention]

Hi. Just had another look on Ebay - maybe I'm using the wrong search words but I can't find any cables with a female end to match the male in the photo above (lots of female Juliet connectors but that's not what I need). Can anyone give me a link to an extension cable male "square" end (see photo above) to matching female "square" end, length at least 1.4m Many thanks

Update on this. I replaced the faulty hall with one scavenged from the original scrap hub and it worked ! The other 2 halls in the original hub are no use as they were scrap before I got the bike.. A shame things moved slightly soon afterwards and the new hall shorted against the hub body. At least I now know what's needed and have ordered new halls to fix this hub and the scrap original. Many thanks for the help and advice, it's appreciated

Hi, I'm looking for a long extension cable for the motor or 2 separate cables (1 male / 1 female) ... I can find male motor cables but not the female ends from the controller. Spec : "Old style" connections (not waterproof connectors) Male from motor (2 required if possible) 1 length 70cm, other can be any length. Male/Female extension to run from the controller to the headstock, length 1.4m would be ideal. If I can't find an extension I can splice a new female end onto the existing harness if I can get a female end... Any suggestions please or does anyone have any scrap cables for sale ? I can see some on Amazon.com at good prices but delivery is weeks Can't see any extension cables on Amazon.UK or Ebay.UK, and ones that look close are often £15 each which gets expensive as I want 3 ends. Background. This is for my Dutch town bike https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/kemp-starley-dutch-town-bike-out-of-hibernation.37181/ I also have a problem with the motor internals but think I have that fixed now https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/fixing-older-wheel-controller-are-all-hub-motor-transistors-similar.48005/#post-729202 The motor cable on the original front motor was damaged and needs to be replaced. I'm now using a spare motor - it was working but the motor cable is about 2m long (photo in the build thread) and is routed internally through the frame making maintenance a nightmare. I'm planning to cut the existing over-long motor cable and put a connector by the headstock for maintenance, and replace the damaged cable on the original motor so I have a spare motor. Many thanks