Recent content by Slimjim

That's a good price, £700 could buy me a kit with decent quality battery then, Thanks

Thanks Douglas that's very encouraging, and yes I have experience through my work of the interesting Chinese perspective on quality, although in recent years their products do seem to have improved significantly.

Ok thanks D8ve

Hello D8ve, Thanks for the quick response. www.psppower.com quotes 8kg for the 1000W Bafang, presumably including cranks, ring and display. The batteries I have seen look to have Samsung cells - thank you for pointing out that Dolphin refers to the case - therefore I need to be careful to...

I've been following a few threads on here, and Endless-sphere regarding the TSDZ2, but as is normal the threads develop and meander over time, and there are a lot of differing opinions, so I'm hoping for any useful recent advice. I'm a middle-aged mountain biker, recently moved to the foothills...

Hi Mike, unfortunately not very far since last update - despite having fully charged battery and checking all the wiring, I'm getting no response from the motor at all now. The controller is getting slightly warm so is receiving power, and throttle voltage range is normal. We're in the middle...

Agreed with above, if motor is trying to turn wheel clockwise in above pictures, it can only do so by trying to turn the swingarm anti clockwise. Equal and opposite reactions. I'm assuming also that both ends of your hub axle have double flats, which sit into the inverted-U shaped dropouts on...

A steel rod is a neat, light solution if you can make it fit without having to kink it around the chain etc. However, I've just realised something- if you picture that the hub is trying to drive the wheel forwards, then it is in effect going to try to turn the bike in the opposite direction...

Cables are a very light weight method to resist loads, but again I would just consider that fact that the hub will try to apply torque to the dropouts (I assume the hub has the 'double flatted' axles that key into the dropouts, possibly in conjunction with steel keying devices). The dropouts...

I would just be careful about putting torque from the motor, or disc brake into the swing arm as it won't have been designed to handle torque.

Hmm I'll double check tomorrow night in case i was being dumb and measuring between positive and signal

There are various pad materials that have higher friction factor, might be worth a try after you've cleaned the current set up, and before spending money on a larger disc etc. They tend to wear out more quickly though....

If you carry on riding on worn bearings, is there a risk of the rotor rubbing on the stator with that amount of bearing play?

The locking nut has been glued on the outside, so I'll need to crack that off before I pull the guts out of the top half, intact.