Motor Phase Current
- Thread starter awol
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Phase current is complicated because it goes in both directions through each phase wire, and it's pulsed.
The motor phase wires can take a lot of current even if you have those thin wires through the 9-pin connector. Saneagle melted the thick phase wires coming out of his controller, but the thin ones to the motor were OK.
At 20A, I don't think you need to do anything. At 30A, you have to replace those bullet connectors because they get hot, which melts the plastic shroud around them to make them short out. Maybe that's what happened to Saneagle. This was the result:
The motor phase wires can take a lot of current even if you have those thin wires through the 9-pin connector. Saneagle melted the thick phase wires coming out of his controller, but the thin ones to the motor were OK.
At 20A, I don't think you need to do anything. At 30A, you have to replace those bullet connectors because they get hot, which melts the plastic shroud around them to make them short out. Maybe that's what happened to Saneagle. This was the result:
20a, for 2/3 of the phase.
But it's a bit more complicated, because it's DC, going backwards and forwards. AKA A.C. but it's not a sine wave. Unless it is. So RMS does not work, unless it does.
It seems that we need a new term, something like alternating DC.
All that said, from a totally practical POV, upgrade the bullets. Every time I've used them they melted eventually.
I now use Anderson powerpoles for phase wires.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Rather than mess about with connectors, I think that it's better to cut off the bullets and solder the wires directly to the PCB. You don't need connectors there because, you have one at the motor end. My Xiongda controllers are like that, and so are some OEM bikes.