So basically i have a ebike with a ananda d16 display, a ananda b5 controller, a m150sd motor and a 48v battery. I wanna buy a new controller and display so i can get some more power and speed. Which controller kit would be compatible with these parts?
Which controller kit do i buy?
- Thread starter mxlann
- Start date
Does your 36v battery still work, and do you still want to use it? do you want cheap and chearful or a nice control system? How much extra power do you want?
What do you mean 36v? its 48v, but i would want something thats under 100 euros. The motor i have right now puts out something like 900 watts. If possible i would want 1000 watts or more.
Are you sure about that? 900w output is 25A at 48v. Ananda says the B5 controller is 20A max, and that's probably at 36v. Is there a label on it indicating the max current?
Once you go over 20A at 48v, pedalling is a waste of time, so you don't need a special controller. For 1000w output, that is going to severely stress your motor, you need a controller with a max current of 26A to 28A - a 12 MOSFET one. All controllers work the same. All you need to do is wire them up right. Different ones have different optional features, so choose one that has what you want. Always buy the matching LCD with it if it has one.
Another important consideration is your battery. Can it supply more than 25A continuous, which is what you'd need. Most can't!
The battery can output 40A continuous. But no, there is no label indicating max current. On the display i can see the amount of watts the motor is outputting. The highest ive seen it go is something like 916 watts.
The watts on the display are INPUT power. It measures the voltage and the current from the battery, then multiplies the two together. Output power would be about 70% of that in ideal conditions. When climbing hills and starting off, it would be around 50%.
916w is 19A from a 48v battery, so you probably have an 17A controller. The B5 comes in 15A,17A and 20A variants. When your battery is fully charged, it would be about 52v when delivering 17A, which would be 884 watts. 20A would be over 1000w.
Your motor and battery should be able to handle 22A, which is what I'd choose because they're not too big. If you feel lucky, you could try 25A. Get a KT brand sinewave one. They're all over Ebay, Amazon and Aliexpress. Topbikekit does the 22A for Hailong batteries if that's what you have, and the aluminium box type. You can get the whole kit from them. Makesure you buy a KT LCD to go with it, and if you get the waterproof connectors, you should get the PAS and throttle too if you want plug and play.
Could you maybe send a link for a controller? i dont know much about which are good and which are not.
How much space do you have for installation?
Whichever one you get, you'll have to do some wiring and soldering. Are you OK with that?
Im not sure how much space i have, but im ok with soldering and wiring. If the controller could use WP connectors it would be nice.
confirm the waterproof fittings type on your bike, often they are not the usual julet or bafang higo but slightly differing variations. the drawback with the 'waterproof' fittings comes if you have an electrical issue. Both the bikes the plugs and sockets present difficulties for testing with fragile tiny male pins and equally tiny socket voids too big for most probe tools..
Nothing more frustrating than a controller a mm or 2 too large in one or more dimensions.. fwiw the small black controller housing boxes will accommodate a15a controller BUT NOT a 17A dual voltage KT controller..
Nothing more frustrating than a controller a mm or 2 too large in one or more dimensions.. fwiw the small black controller housing boxes will accommodate a15a controller BUT NOT a 17A dual voltage KT controller..
Alright, so i bought a 25A sinewave KT controller and a KT lcd7c display. When i installed everything i got a throttle error and it wouldnt work. I think its because of my 1t4 cable because its 8 pin and the controller takes 9 pin. Could that be the reason?
More likely, it's the throttle connector is wired differently to the 1T4 cable connector. It can also happen when your throttle is a bit damaged. If the stop takes a knock, the zero throttle magnet can go too far past, which increases the throttle signal.
You get the throttle error code when the controller sees a non-zero value at start-up. It's a safety feature to stop the bike scooting off as soon as you switch it on.
How could i fix the error in this case? The controller i have has a 9 pin motor cable, 9 pin 1t5, 2 pin light and 3 pin pas. The 2 and 3 pin are WP connectors. The 1t4 cable i have now does not have a 3 pin throttle though. Could it be the PAS?
This is getting a bit complicated. When you buy a controller, it comes with the correct cable and you buy a compatible display. Everything should plug together. You can't plug a 9-pin cable into an 8-pin socket. It physically won't fit. I can't understand why you're talking about that cable because it was the cable for the old controller.
You don't need brakes with a KT, so that's easy. That only leaves the throttle, which may or may not be wired in the correct sequence. The easiest solution is to remove the connectors and solder the wires into the correct sequence if it's wrong.
I advised you above to buy the throttle and pedal sensor with the controller in order to avoid any compatibility issues. Did you do that or are you trying to use your old ones?
Are you using the pedal sensor? Is that working and wired in the correct sequence?
I dont have a throttle and i also dont have a connector for it. And im talking about plugging a 8 pin into a 9 pin. I tried wiring the PAS in different sequences, but the error stayed. The controller did not come with a pedal sensor so i tried using it with my old one. At this point its either the PAS itself or the 1t4 cable which is 8 pin.
You can't plug a 9-pin into an 8-pin. It has the wrong number of pins. I must be misunderstanding something. Can you explain?