Lishui Controller Modification - Firmware Flash Project

[jarnold]

My KT does use the hall sensors for speed limiting, and as far as I know, it's not a setting.
Whereas the speed display could be derived from the hall sensors if I changed the settings, but it wouldn't work too well as the hub has a freewheel.
However, I could be wrong - it happened once before in May 1976.

 

[saneagle]

My KT does use the hall sensors for speed limiting, and as far as I know, it's not a setting.
Whereas the speed display could be derived from the hall sensors if I changed the settings, but it wouldn't work too well as the hub has a freewheel.
However, I could be wrong - it happened once before in May 1976.

A normal KT controller uses the hall sensors to get the cut-off speed, but you can adjust the speed that it cuts off in the user settings (hold + and - buttons down for a few secs withing 5 secs of switching on).

The normal speed display comes from any speed sensor. Most motors have one inside them, otherwise you can use a wheel magnet type.

If you set P2=0, the controller will use the hall sensors for the speed display and the speed will show zero when freewheeling. You should set P2 =1 or P2=6 to get the correct speed display if you have a speed sensor, whichever of those two values gives the correct speed, as it depends on how many magnets are in your motor's speed sensor. P2=1 for a wheel magnet sensor.

 

[guerney]

It's programmable. I could set it so the speed never reads above 25kmph if I wanted to.

You could program in random incremental hops back and forth between 24.7 and 25 say, to make it look more convincing, rather than display 25kph continuously for top speed with no load/motor wheel off the ground, while still limiting pedal assist on-road speed to 25kph? But you'd never know your downhill speed, or your self-propelled speed after the cutoff, without an app, bicycle speed computer, GoPro/action cam GPS, or some other GPS recorder. With 3 magnets at odd angles (14 spokes don't divide into 3 without radical modification), mine displayed 23kph dead on, no matter how fast I pedalled by hand on the stand - it's just firmware parameter changing on the BBS01B, programming it aint.

I look forward to reaping the rewards of your hard work, if some highly unlikely and particularly unfortunate set of life circumstances I cannot currently evisage cause sufficient hitherto non-existent masochistic tendencies to develop, and compel me to ever buy one of these bizarre hub motor thangs.

KT is really for enthusiasts.

I won't be enthusiastic about buying a KT controller, because life had become so dreadfully unbearable and terminally depressing I'd bought a hub motor.

The difference is the polish. You start with a turd, then polish it.

The Polish do what with turds? Do they turn turds into hub morors? I'm not aware of any Polish hub motor manufacturers, but confess I haven't been looking.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

I look forward to reaping the rewards of your hard work, if some highly unlikely and particularly unfortunate set of life circumstances I cannot currently evisage cause sufficient hitherto non-existent masochistic tendencies to develop, and compel me to ever buy one of these bizarre hub motor thangs.

Don't knock it until you've tried it. You never know doing a hub motor project could convert you. At the very least it will give a second platform to test out different lighting arrangements. Who wouldn't want the opportunity to fit more lasers.

 

[Nealh]

BBS users are afraid , very afraid .
They will find out it's true that a hub motor with KT is a far better solution @48v.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

One of the things that I've noticed is that when running the throttle start assist up to 6kmph a slight twitch of the pedals can sometimes momentarily engage full throttle. This can be quite disconcerting when you aren't expecting it. My guess is it is just that one of the PAS magnets is in the right place so even a small bump in the road could potentially set it off.

Also since I removed the cadence ramp you sometimes get a small blip of power. My guess is that this is the same problem. Controller sees pedals move slightly, applies power, sees that they are no longer moving and cuts power.

I've put in a counter to delay assistance until there is a more significant rotation of the pedals. First attempt is at 1 1/4 turns which is far too long. Next test reduces this to 3/4 of a turn of the crank. Will see how that feels.

Still haven't got around to testing it at 36V. If the above works I will swap to a 36V battery tonight to see what happens.

Put in the code for the Kingmeter. Another thing to test after the 36V battery.

 

[Woosh]

Put in the code for the Kingmeter. Another thing to test after the 36V battery.

The ability of your code to talk to various LCDs is a very attractive feature.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

The main code is already in there. It just needs tweaking and testing to made sure it works with the modifications that I've made.

I have an EN06 display to test with. Because of the way it works it's not going to have all the features that the KT display has. I also have an S830 which runs on a different protocol. For some reason lost in the midst of time I cut the plug off it so would need a new plug purchasing and some resoldering if I was going to test that one out.

 

[guerney]

Don't knock it until you've tried it. You never know doing a hub motor project could convert you. At the very least it will give a second platform to test out different lighting arrangements. Who wouldn't want the opportunity to fit more lasers.

Well I bought a cheap bike to fix up, possibly to hub motor convert. The idea was it'd cost so little, I wouldn't worry if it was stolen. Bought new parts, diassembled and cleaned old parts, and it was on my bike stand for months... simply couldn't muster the enthusiasm to re-assemble. Maybe someday. With subroutines perhaps, for light patterns and mobile beer fridge control.

You start with a turd, then polish it.

The turds you speak of don't magnetise properly and don't have poles, merely polish? How would the Polish make hub motors using turds like that? Is Poland populated by hi-tech dung beetles? An iron rich diet may help? I've run out of interpretations of polish.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

Well I bought a cheap bike to fix up, possibly to hub motor convert. The idea was it'd cost so little, I wouldn't worry if it was stolen. Bought new parts, diassembled and cleaned old parts, and it was on my bike stand for months... simply couldn't muster the enthusiasm to re-assemble. Maybe someday. With subroutines perhaps, for light patterns and mobile beer fridge control.

Always worth having a backup for those times that something goes wrong and it takes a couple of days to fix.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

Put on the 36V battery to test and nearly everything works apart from the start assist throttle. With it originally being a 48V controller thought it might not be producing the full 5V to power the throttle at 36V. Then realised it would have been the alterations I did the other day to make sure a set of PAS pulses are seen before the full throttle engages.

Fix one problem, cause another.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

36V battery is working fine. Had to add a few more 36V settings for walk assist and the like as the current limit was too low to shift it along at the lower voltage.

Swapped over to the EN06 display and changed the controller display setting. All seems to work with the wheel off the ground. Will take it out for a test ride later on today.

If that works I've pretty much done what I set out to achieve. I'm sure there will be further tinkering but nothing major.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

Tested the EN06 display with the code I've put in and the assistance levels all work as does the walk assist from the display. The Kingmeter displays work a bit differently from the KT in that the display controls the levels directly. The KT display sends a number from 0 to 5. That then has to be mapped to to a power level. The Kingmeters send a number from 0 to 255 which is then translated into power. This is why the Kingmeter displays can have assistance levels can be 0 to 3, 0 to 5 or 0 to 9 because it is the displays that control the levels.

I could do some sort of translation map to align it with the levels on the KT displays but since I won't be using it I can't drum up the interest in sorting it.

The No.2 protocol uses the same code that I've put in so should work as well. I can't test it without some soldering though as there is no plug on the display I have.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

Bit of tinkering.

Returned to the LCD3 display. Added a second mid level assist profile for 36V. Now if the LCD3 C14 setting is at 2 it automatically chooses between a 36V profile or a 48V profile. Means I don't even bother having to select now.

C14 settings 1 and 3 remain the same in both voltages.

Started to adjust the assistance profiles to my preferred settings. For example I've dropped the L5 setting at 48V to 80%. The throttle still works to 100% so I now have 6 settings.

Haven't added this to Github yet.

Will be sticking with the KT display as I can manipulate it to do more. That is unless someone points out another type that is amazing.

 

[lenny]

https://opensourceebike.github.io/

 

[saneagle]

https://opensourceebike.github.io/

I eat currants, but I never heard of anybody eating volts.

 

[lenny]

https://opensourceebike.github.io/easy_diy_display_ebike_display/

 

[lenny]

https://github.com/hishizuka/pizero_bikecomputer

 

[Sparksandbangs]

https://opensourceebike.github.io/easy_diy_display_ebike_display/

My understanding is that the author of this stuff casainho wrote the original custom firmware for the KT controllers. He then moved on to other projects. Stancecoke took the project over. He then moved over to developing the Lishui custom firmware that I am using. Both very clever guys.

 

[Sparksandbangs]

Latest update. There is no update. I've not felt the urge to change anything this week.

It's running really well. The only thing that might need looking at is the behaviour around the speed cutoff.

I think in the spirit of fairness I should reinstall a similar sized KT controller and get a direct comparison.