Search results

Hey I just realized I posted in the wrong section, oh well. Yeah was suspecting that, it comes as a kit with a bigger controller but it's 36v so will probably not work. Will see how it is, have a couple spare 6 fets if the shunt mod kills it but will probs just upgrade fairly soon. My hub is...

Following my hub failure the wife's also went, just the nylon gears, but as it was rusty and spokes kept breaking we opted for a new wheel. She has ordered a 500w direct drive for the cheapness and reliability. Her current controller is a kunray 6 fet 15amps, will this be enough for such a big...

Think I'll just pay the extra for the one that goes inside my hailong battery mount

Was thinking about a box but a 6 fet case barely fits in my frame let alone a 9, only way I could think is to mount it on the downtube with some kind of clamps, top tube is another option but it's a square shape so the original brackets again might not work great. I found a kt controller with...

Won't fit with my trailer on which mounts to my seat post. I currently have a frame bag setup but want something tidier. OCD reasons mostly :p

I want to mount a kt waterproof 22a controller to the seat tube. I'm looking for a solid mounting solution that looks tidy, any ideas? Any sort of bracket available that could be held with jubilee clips?

The sound doesn't bother me, was just confirming it is normal. As for efficiency I've started pedalling at startup as it's a bit slow to get going compared to geared. Just setup regen braking which should help me a little as I do plenty of descents but range seems similar to the geared hub so...

The controller is sinewave

I have took my new hub from cyclotricity for a spin and it performs pretty well. Only thing is I thought DD hubs were meant to be pretty much silent? It is at high speed but it has quite a loud growl when starting up. Runs great and doesn't pull too much current so I'm confident it's set up right.

Not familiar with that controller but if you can find a wiring diagram it should tell you if it has an output. If you wire to the battery itself you need a fuse in case of a problem. If you do this make sure your wiring is nice and secure as battery voltage through those tiny wires can get...

Thanks. I was thinking of upgrading to an all julet plug setup with the colour LCD 8 so I may just live with it or bodge it

So I got a new hub installed (cyclotricity 500w) and it works at treat, yay! However at some point during the faf I have snapped the plastic bracket that holds the buttons in place. Any hack for this? Would super glue hold do you think?

To answer my question yes a cyclotricity hub will fit by using the washers provided on the inside rather than the outside, I will likely have a crap chainline and will have to redish but it's workable, I only use the last couple of gears anyway

Just match the colours, they are the same brand connector (Juliet/higo)

Those connectors are really hard to get. If you can solder, just change both to the common 9 pin type

Thanks but just ordered a cyclotricity 500w hub which is probably better suited to my controller anyway. Not sure if I'll get it to fit my huge dropouts but I have a regular Carrera MTB that I could transplant my parts onto if needed

Yeah connectors can be a nightmare, this is an internal fault all visible wire tested for continuity and all good, so the break is inside. Now I'm stuffed because it seems to be engineered in a way that makes accessing the wiring part of the internals impossible without machines. And due to its...

My hub is knackered and is an unusual size, was going to stretch my frame slightly and use a fat hub, but could I not just use a regular 135mm hub with a spacer or two to minimise squishing the frame?

Yep that's my guess, currently stripping it but can't seem to get into the wiring part

Tests indicate no connection on the blue phase, perhaps the wire has come loose inside?