Search results

This doesn't make any sense to me. How can the rim be true and concentric when the spokes have been bent when previously they weren't, and they're not supposed to be? Clearly the spokes have undergone some compression to bend them, so the rim cannot now be true/concentric. Logic suggests you've...

You being happy with your purchase is I think all that matters. Even though my first and third e-bikes are "unlocked" to 20mph and 18mph respectively and I know I'm technically breaking the law, I still very much enjoy my second TranzX motored e-bike even though it's resolutely locked at...

That's a torque sensor, not a Cadence as I'd assumed. You say there are no error codes showing, so I assume the display is working just no codes showing. If so the battery/power is working, just no assist. If even the display doesn't come on, there have been known/prior issues with the battery...

It could be enclosed or open. Post a picture.

Have you checked the sensor on the crank/bottom bracket? It needs to be clean, the magnet disc turns with the crank (when the pedals are turned) and correctly spaced, about 1mm. If it's covered in crud or been disturbed you won't get any assist, so it's the first item to check.

I have 3 e-bikes. The first uses a Bafang crank-drive motor. All parameters are easily accessible either with PC software or with an Android App (Speeed) - both easy to obtain/free. The user can change not only the top speed limit, but how power is applied, how many levels of assist there...

The firmware is pre-programmed at the factory. The days of manufacturers leaving the parameter setting menus open are now largely gone - at least for store-bought bikes like Halfords, Decathlon, Pure. Even where a parameter menu is left accessible, it'll often be restricted. Chinese makers...

Why? Pashley's own electric version of the Pronto model uses an 80Nm crank drive conversion. I'd think they made that choice because the bike in un-electrified form uses a 3-speed gear in the rear hub, and a drum brake in the front hub making it not an ideal choice for swapping out wheel sets...

If when you put your bike in the lowest assist level and cycle gently along a flat road the battery stays on, but if you then put the bike into a higher/highest assist level and give it some welly the battery dies/cuts out, it likely is a knackered/sagging battery. Many of the lower-cost 24v...

Others will likely know better than me, but I always understood that to mean the motor has overheated. It should reset and work again once it's cooled down.

I'm not clear - your bike is now out of your 1 year warranty? Mainstream brands usually hold a healthy stock of parts either here in the UK or easily/quickly obtainable from within the EU. Rich Bit state they hold bikes in the UK for shipment, but in several cases I know of resellers like that...

Here're some useful YouTube videos from HomeLeHat - a Fiido D11 rider with 6000km on the clock. These are all quite recent, there are others he's done on his D11 and he may add more over time, but these are the ones that seem to answer the burning questions that other members have asked here on...

As all Wing appear to sell on that website seems to be illegal e-bikes/mopeds, what seems to me to be true madness is this encouragement to already disqualified drivers to instead buy and ride one of their illegal over-powered e-bikes... or rather their mopeds... without the required licence and...

The Yose Clone battery I linked is described as "Rear Battery for Stella Bike". If you check the images for the original Phylion/Joycube battery I linked in post #22, you'll find this: I'd be pretty sure the Yose clone version will fit/work. The Yose clone even claims a Smart BMS (as an...

LiFePO4 is certainly making a storming inroad as THE battery chemistry of choice for leisure batteries now. A little heavier than Li-Ion they may be, but they're significantly lighter than the conventional alternative of Lead Acid, give a much greater usable capacity in a like-for-like package...

I'm just wondering if this clone from Yose would fit? The connection block and case profile looks about right to me. 36v/13Ah, £177 inc. charger here.

I agree with the comments already made above about your battery likely being old/worn/no longer being able to produce the current needed. As for the low/high LED's flashing (790), IMO it's a different problem and sounds similar to this post here where it's a brake sensor fault.

I think there's a lot to like about that bike, but the lack of gears would kill it as a viable proposition for me on my commute. I couldn't survive on my 20" folder without gears, and even then, I sometimes wish I had an ever wider range than I do. As flecc says, I too think you'd be spinning...

Looks to me like excessive speed given the prevailing conditions/surroundings. If you're going to ride like an a55hole, be sure you've got the competence and equipment needed to control your vehicle. If you've a crap bike with crap brakes (and clearly a crap brain), ride at an appropriate speed...

It's good that you came back to the forum to explain what the problem turned out to be, and how you managed to resolve your issue. It's often quite annoying when (usually new) members post problems and other members here take their time to help with advice and suggestions, and then you never...