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So essentially the balancing was only a temporary fix and the same series being the issue again suggests either BMS/bleed resistor/bad cell issue? I haven't done any wiring with the bike - do I need much equipment for it, and a new type of meter? Is it quite advanced? It would be nice if there...

It had been fully charged and I had just unplugged the charger from the battery. Used the throttle, got about 50m up the street and it cut out. Failed a few times immediately afterwards so i walked it home.

Just did this test again and #11 is the weak group again - it measured 4.08V while the rest all measured 4.14V. The total amount measures 53.8V - but it's not freshly charged - it failed from a fresh charge a few days ago and has been sitting idle since then. Should I charge it fully and...

Would the voltmeter suggestion require some wiring on my behalf? Also, the original battery seller responded to the original complaint (battery is still in warranty) saying he will replace the faulty group of cells if I can get somebody to replace them for me. Unsure if I should accept this or...

So should I keep taking multimeter readings of each cell group at different stages (when fully charged, when just failed etc) and post them here?

Broke down again today when fully charged. First time I turned the throttle the screen shut off, then it would either immediately shut off when I turned it on or shut off once I applied the throttle. I noticed the screen gave a battery voltage reading of 51V or so after failure, so I got the...

Fully charged battery gives a multimeter reading of 54.8V. Bike will run again now, but what caused this? I'm worried it will break down when I'm far from home Edit: just got through a 13km cycle with no issues, still no idea why it failed earlier though.

I paid to have the battery rebalanced and it's been fine since then. New issue today, the controller screen keeps turning off, either immediately, or if not as soon as I turn the throttle. Anything I can do myself to troubleshoot it?

Thanks @Sturmey, do you know anywhere in Ireland that I could take the battery for repair? If not I need to buy a 5v 500ma charger and the magnets to try to manually charge the group. I know I already asked, but does anyone know where I can find a video or instructions on how to use the...

Thanks! I found an old charger that has an output of 4.5-9.6V and 300-600ma, I assume this is no use and I need exactly 5v 500ma? Can anyone link a video showing the magnet/washer method? So this can be done without soldering? I imagine I will have to buy a magnet like @wheeliepete suggested?

JST seems glued to the green box behind it

I didn't know but do now after a quick google :) So I should; 1 - Pop into a phone repair store, buy an old charger and strip it 2 - Rip the JST off to expose it (this I am worried about as it's stuck to the component behind it - photo attached in next post again) 3 - Insert the negative wire...

This is where the seller bought it https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000093945365.html and he said it is in warranty for 3 months more so has sent them photos of multimeter readings to see if they will replace the battery. Where should I look for someone who can repair it for me? I'm in...

So I would buy something like this, use a scissors to cut off the end nub that would charge whatever it’s designed for, and a negative and positive wire should pop out of it? Are they color coded so I know which is which?

So you would cut off the crocodile clip on one end, expose the wire and insert it to the balance connector? And the crocodile clip on the other end would clip one of the 2 prongs that go into the wall (going by the USA plug used in the video)?

Thanks @soundwave but the guy in the previous video you linked is using a solder kit - so it seems this is needed to charge up just the one bank of cells?

Thanks @GLJoe but it seems I need a solder kit? If I don't need expensive tools to do it, is there a easy to follow video of it?

Thanks. I can go to the shop to buy wooden skewers - I have a wooden fork and knife but neither can get under the metal interconnector - it doesn't seem loose. I have no tools and your second last post seems advanced for me - I never heard of heat shrink, the pins you mention and I have not...

Thanks! So what next? Is there an easy way to test each cell one by one in this group? And will I then be buying a new cell/group of cells and replacing that by myself?

Thanks very much! #11 is the big discrepancy at 3.61V #10 is 4.15V and all the rest are 4.16V #1 4.16V #2 4.16V #3 4.16V #4 4.16V #5 4.16V #6 4.16V #7 4.16V #8 4.16V #9 4.16V #10 4.15V #11 3.61V #12 4.16V #13 4.16V