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Good point. But I only knew I had them after the wire fell off. Do you happen to know what the sensor is please?

Brake sensor is only two wire. But repair is nearly complete, so will continue.

Thank you. I will repair the sensor. Very fiddly because the wire broke at the sensor.

A little more assistance please. As I was tracing the wires so that I could change the connectors on the controller, I noticed that the wire to the RH brake lever sensor had broken. The LH one is still ok. I have no excuse for not spotting this! Could this be my problem? I also notice that...

The link that you gave me was https://bmsbattery.com/home/1010-18239-s-ku65-controller-for-led810-250w15a-6mosfets-controller.html#/341-led-no_led I had not noticed that the link ends no_led and when I was on the website i ordered the 36v one rather than no_led. However, looking at the picture...

I have just noticed. You said the "no led" was probably the one. But, regrettably, I bought the 36v one. Could this be a problem?

Hi. So I bought the KU65 and it has finally arrived. The connectors are different, so I am trying to sort out what is what. The connections to the motor and battery seem obvious and the colours are the same. Then the three pin connector to the hall sensor on the crank seems ok. But then it...

Everything stays firmly on. All power supplies (4.72V) stay up, as does the 41V into the controller. The lights on the display all stay up with full battery indicated. My test is to tilt the back wheel off the ground and twist the throttle. The wheel rotates at a good rate. I then lower it...

Is it a duff battery? I rechecked, this time being careful to connect the meter on the controller side of the supply from the battery. I was concerned that those horrible little connectors that they use might be defective. I still have the same problem and the voltage stays high at 41Volts or...

It wasn't potted. I stripped it out and re-flowed the solder on the 7 joints, and a few more as well. Having removed the cassette, I looked at the motor and it seems to be sealed! I gather that the motor itself is unlikely to be fried, but a phase wire could be broken? Agitating the cable...

That sounds like an easier job than trying to get the motor apart. I will start with the controller.

Thanks for all your help. I tried moving the cable, but could not get things to change. I will start stripping things down to see what I can find. Once again, thanks for your time.

Red to black voltage is 4.72V and it does not change with during running or curt-out. I was looking at the Hall? sensor on the crank rather than in the motor! Sorry.

You wrote, "Hall sensor wires are yellow, green, blue (sense wires) and red and black (power wires) - all on the same flat black connector." The Hall sensor connector has three wires, yellow black and red. The voltage between the black and red wires is 4.72...

I pulled the tiny 5 wire connector to the motor and found conductivity between 4 of them, consistent with a semiconductor. That is only one way round. But the 5th one, nothing. This was the red one.

I checked again. Pulled it in and out and it goes right up to the line. I should have said!

Unfortunately, it is right in! There are two arrows facing each other to show how far it needs to be in. I thinks it is ok, but could it be a broken wire in that cable, perhaps at the axle? Should I strip the motor to get at the wiring? If that is possible of course.

Only connector on the motor wire is half way along the fork, about 10" from the hub. 15 mile speed restriction? So I can go faster? I digress. Hall sensor is a three pin connector. Disconnected it (I am using the throttle) and found 4.7V. Ran motor and it went up to 5.1V. The 4 battery...

Thanks for the reassurance, I was feeling negative. As to what started this, I loaded the bike into the car boot with some difficulty. Could have hit something. I have checked the little connectors around the regulator, etc. Wondered about the cable into the motor, what with it being exposed...

Hi All. I have been really enjoying my bike since last November. Pre-owned and 2010 manufacture. It suddenly stopped working on a ride and when I got it home I found that the rear wheel motor would run off the ground but with no power worth talking about. If I started it on the ground it would...