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Thanks Neal, he's not averse to spending a little to achieve what he wants. One more question while I'm here, are the non-julet connections to the controller standard for all controllers, or will they have to be changed to suit?.

Having cycled the Gower on a a number of occasions (unpowered), I can put your mind at rest, there are no hills that I am aware of that can't be comfortably handled with a 250 watt motor. You might have a problem on Constitution hill (I'm sure you know it), other than that you're good to go.

Nope, rather defeats the object anyway. Friend suffered a stroke and needs a throttle to get him home when his leg stops functioning, he can't walk very far. But he finds the gentle exercise helps his condition somewhat.

Thanks VFR, understood. Just to be sure the controller was seeing zero volts I disconnected and reconnected the signal wire with the power on - still nothing. All voltages check out i.e 5v between red/black, 1v between black/white (throttle closed) 4v full throttle. My extensive research has...

Red goes to red, black to black, signal wire is white to yellow, I don't understand the first part, could you re-phrase it?

Thanks for the reply Neal, I've been browsing and searching for a while and found an earlier reply from you regarding the Viking eco, as far as I can tell it's the same bike (has the same controller), so yes I'm pretty sure it's a throttle connection. I'll check for the 1v in closed position...

Hi all, trying to help a friend install a throttle to his Tesco city hopper as he has mobility problems and can't always peddle. This bike has a pedelec system which works fine, but has no led/lcd control, it seems to be permanently on a mid range level of assist. The thumb throttle arrived...

Thanks, I'll give that a try. From now on, I'll try to use all my my bikes regularly. I'm thinking that the best long term solution would be to get one good quality battery and swap it between the bikes, I'm assuming that spare battery holders are available?.

Thanks for the explanation, but now I'm confused. The battery in question has a label which clearly states 'If the battery is to be stored it should be charged for 2 hours every 3 months.' Anyway, it's been used and recharged and now its up to 40v, so thanks Juicy, it appears to be working. It...

Thanks for the replies, I'll do a search for manual balancing and report back.

The 36v 11Ah battery on my 'winter bike' was charged to 38v before being laid up. From time to time I check that there are 2 of the 3 indicator lights still illuminated . This week only the red indicator lit up, so I gave it a charge. It will now only charge to 38v, the charger output is good at...

This popped up on a google search today, makes interesting reading:- https://electrek.co/2019/03/15/greyp-g6-electric-bike-unveiled/

Well done, I'm sure you won't regret it. Please let us know how you get on, it's better to ask on here if you have difficulties, rather than butcher anything.

I agree, don't sweat it. Whatever you do it won't last forever, by the time it dies, the replacement will be cheaper, lighter, more powerful and longer lasting. (fingers crossed emoji ?)

Yes, and yes. My front wheel kit is fitted to an old Raleigh and is perfectly adequate as a winter bike. My 'best' bike is a lightweight Trek roadbike, narrow carbon forks make it unsuitable for a front wheel kit, hence a Yosepower rear kit. The rear kit was more troublesome partly because it...

I'm no expert, having fitted a Cyclotricity front wheel kit and a Yosepower rear kit. The front wheel kit is much easier to fit, rear wheel kits will be more problematic in terms of wheel alignment and you might have to dish the wheel in order to align it properly. Having said that, I think it...

Thanks Neal, I just found a little bag that once held a Gerber type multi-tool that I can strap to the steering stem, that'll do for now. I also wanted to get rid of the jumble of cables around the steering stem (yes I know I'm a fusspot), so I will pursue moving the display to the seat pack...

Sounds like a good idea, also prevents any damage to the display when repairing a puncture.

I'm currently using an LCD3 display on my roadbike which is fitted with a Yosepower rear wheel kit, but I don't like the way it clutters up the handlebars. I'm thinking of extending the cables and hiding the display in the seat pack alongside the controller, so that I'll only have the button on...

Not to take anything away from Woosh, but there are other alternatives. https://www.cyclotricity.com/uk/custom/mix-match-your-own-conversion-kit.html