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Beware of fake parts being sold on popular internet auction sites. l've had loads of issues with fake parts that either don't work at all, or fail within a short time.

The device will likely have failed because some other component has failed, such as a capacitor or resistor. lf you just replace the mosfet it's likely to fail instantly when you plug the charger in. You could give it a try though, you never know you might get lucky.

Gear changes will be clunky if you change under full power, particularly in the highest power mode. I have the same issue on my Kona (Shimano E8000) Unfortunately it's difficult to avoid as it takes a second for the power to cut off after you stop pedalling, presumably to make the bike...

Cheap and poorly designed SMPS can have an efficiency of 50-60% A good one would be 80% efficient Also the better ones will have plated through holes in the PCB so you shouldn't get issues with poor solder joints.

Transformers are actually very efficient, IRO 95-98% as opposed to a SMPS which is 85-90% Switch Mode power supplies can get very warm in use, but as long as you can keep your hand on the casing it's most likely okay With any power supply, the best thing is to derate it, for instance if you...

Be careful when randomly drilling holes in the case! Taking the casing apart to drill the holes would be better, but also be aware that by drilling holes in the casing, you are compromising the insulation of the device. Make sure it's not possible to touch anything inside the casing when...

As long as you're not running the charger over it's rated capacity it will be fine. lf it needed a cooling fan, the manufacturer would have installed one.

lf the charger is a good one, such as a branded Shimano or Cube etc the heat won't harm it, many are encapsulated in resin. The resin draws heat away from the components and because of this the casing will get warmer than you might think is "normal"

The motors, speed controllers and displays will be absolutely fine after two years storage. They would only come to grief if the bikes were stored in a damp environment. l believe some controllers have a small backup battery (mine must have because it will still come on without the battery...

The charger won't be harmed by running hot so long as it's not too hot to keep your hand on. The problem is the cheaper ones where they use poor quality components, specifically capacitors which eventually fail due to heat. Use branded 105 deg C working components and the power supply will...

On most ebikes without a torque sensor as long as you turn the pedals a little the bike will sit at its maximum speed of around 15mph anyway. That's perfectly legal. l don't understand why that is any different to having a throttle.

lt's legal to have a throttle for starting off, as the Mirider has one of those as standard. l think it has to stop assisting at around 4mph though.

That's not really an ebike, it's an electric scooter. How does it perform in the highest speed mode, does it achieve the speeds claimed?

I've turned on the "throttle mode" on my Mirider While it's fun, on a ride tonight the battery was down to 25% after four miles. After that l stopped using it and managed a further ten miles of normal assisted riding before the battery expired. lt's useful to get started as the bike has only...

Yeah l was just wanting to see if l could get a bit more out of it, but l knew nothing of hub motor technology and maximum RPM's etc so it's been a learning curve. Thank you for all the advice, this is a great forum.

So there's no point in turning it up to 10 then, would it not increase the torque? More speed isn't really worthwhile because the single gear spins out at about 18mph anyway, it's unsurprisingly designed to do 15mph

ln the controller setup l have this setting for the "maximum current adjustment" There are ten settings and on the Mirider it's set at 9 which is "maximum current value divided by 1.1" Setting 10 is "maximum current value" Will there be any difference if l set it to 10?

The wheel size of my bike is 16" l've done some experiments and if the wheel size is set (on the controller) to 16" the motor will assist to an indicated 15.5mph (actual speed on my GPS around 14mph) If you set the wheel size to 14" the motor will still drive the bike to an indicated 15.5mph...

l ride on the road quite a bit, in fact l just got back from a road ride. Most drivers are fine, they give plenty of room when overtaking or they will wait for a safe place to pass. Also if there's a few cars unable to pass due to a narrow road or traffic coming the other way, l will if...

Use a helmet cam. Send any dangerous driving video to the rozzers and (so long as the number plate is legible) the motorist will get a fine and points on their license lt certainly works in London, perhaps too well, but other cities are following the lead.