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Do you want to run the CA as a 'monitoring only' device, or do you want to use the CA's additional control features? 'Monitoring only' is exactly as d8veh describes. To utilise any additional functionality (CAv3), you will need to connect the CA to your controller's throttle input and brake...

The 'standalone' version is exactly the same as the 'direct connect' version, except it comes with the remote shunt already mentioned. Instructions and diagrams can be found in the CA user manual on the ebikes.ca website. Although I'm a huge fan of the CA, I don't see it as particularly good...

A word of warning: The CA does NOT connect to a 6-pin battery balance lead. Doing so will destroy the CA in an instant. The 6-pin CA plug connects direct to a matching CA plug on the controller and utilises the shunt already in there. This connection can be added to any controller...

I'm not advising it as a first choice solution, but I've used this method a quite a few times when wanting to expose a wire core mid-cable, or when there is limited working room. Just needs a little bit of common sense when working close to other flammable items. EDIT: Burning/melting only...

A question to trade members who are part of a 'dealer network'.... Do you recieve an upfront payment from the manufacturer for work covering this sort of scenario, similarly to how a Post Office receives an annual payment from Royal Mail to process prepaid mail not purchased in store?

The best way is to start on top of a big hill and let gravity do its thing. In all seriousness though, there is no magic answer - everything is a compromise. The only real solution to the problem is to get a bigger battery.

Yes, of course we are talking generalisations and there are always exceptions. What I will add though is that if I see somebody in my rearview mirror "right up my chuff", chances are it'll be an Audi. Ten years ago it would likely have been a BMW, so there must be some sort of 'gravitational...

I've spent most of my life living in london, so do recognise the differentiation you speak of. However, I have a number of acquaintances in the trade (both black cab & minicab) and they all fall somewhere on the bell-end spectrum, mostly at the 'massive' end.

Indeed. A recumbent has roughly half the drag coefficient (Cd) than an upright MTB. The real aero gains are to be had at 30mph+. Anyone spending lots of time above this speed would be wise to investigate a fairing for their vehicle to decrease the Cd as much as possible.

I was suspecting a controller issue, but from your revised description I'm back to agreeing that the throttle is faulty. Once the hall sensor inside the throttle is damaged, the damage cannot be undone. Any preventative work to the throttle has to be done before the damage occurs. You have two...

There's no magic involved. The more effort you put into pedaling and the less power you ask from the motor, the greater the range you will achieve. Regarding speed - it kills range. The following chart illustrates how much power is required to overcome air resistance to maintain a given speed...

Like everything else in life, "it's easy if you know how". However, even for those in the know, unexpected issues still crop up from time-to-time, which might then need to be researched to find a solution to. I would say that if you enjoy DIY, are handy with a set of spanners, know how to use a...

So, you're saying that both the throttle and PAS work okay independently of each other, as long as you don't use them at the same time?

Never has a truer word been said on this forum. Funny how Audi has taken over BMW as the car of choice for the w**ker of today. Taxis are a universal constant. Something about the trade just attracts total bell ends to the job.

FYI: The correct part number for anyone seeking replacement hall sensors to fix a faulty throttle is 49E.

They're not, so don't breathe them in! Burning the insulation off is a valid suggestion though. Alternatively, soften it up with some heat, then scrape the insulation off with a sharp blade.

Most likely, yes, you are correct. My first experience with the CA was eye-opening. It is one of those products that I never knew I needed until I finally purchased one. I now consider all but the most basic of builds incomplete without one. I am most definitely in the 'enthusiast' camp though...

I agree that purchasing a Cycle Analyst solely to solve this specific issue is not worth it. What many don't realise though, is that the Cycle Analyst is far more than just a 'power meter'. If you are able to make use of more of its functionality, it would still be VFM at twice the price IMO...

The issue is likely made worse by a mismatch between the throttle's voltage output range and the controller's expected voltage input range, even when supplied together as part of a kit, or fitted to a pre-built bike. This causes a 'dead zone' at both fully closed and fully open throttle, which...

This maybe an obvious point, but I find that this phenomenon is inversely proportional to power output. It's difficult to feel the difference in power when modulating the throttle on a low powered bike. You soon learn that a bit of finesse is critical when operating the throttle on a multi kW...